increasing oil consumption

sparkyjonze

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Hmmm, OK.
How about this: Drain all oil out and measure how much you actually have inside the engine. Your oil sensor might be giving you the wrong data.
Did you check whether you have any codes? Did you replace the water pump at all or is it original in? On N52 water pump and oil sensor go through the same BUS, if the water pump starts to slowly fail, it will mess up the oil sensor too.
No codes either
 

sparkyjonze

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I would not flush it. Go buy Mobil1 0W40FS. That oil is more than appropriate in N52. I used it on track in that engine and ran 5K OCI. It is packed with additives.
Run it 3K, then 5K.
Oil to Consider:

1st tier readily available:
PPE 5W40 (You have it at AZ and AAP for $37 + filter. But be careful with the filter. If they do not have MANN, WIX, don't get filter).
Mobil1 0W40
Castrol Edge 0W40

1st tier online:
Castrol Edge 0W30
Motul X-Cess 5W40 GEN2

2nd tier readily available All in Wal mart:

Quaker State 5W40
Valvoline European Vehicle 5W40
Castrol Edge 5W30 A3
Castrol Edge 5W40

Also, when I say 2nd tier, they all are approved for Mb229.5, which is generally considered the most stringent specification. But there are some differences between these already very good oils. So, you cannot really make mistake.
My inclination at the moment is to give the flush a shot and switch to a 40 weight oil you recommend.
 
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If you're running any run of the mill 5w-30, I suggest you look for an oil with LL-01 or LL-01FE approvals.
I agree with this, just regular 5w30 is probably not helping it live a long life at all. All BMW engines have an engine oil spec they need to meet. It is there for a reason. Can't really compare Mobil1 5w30 to something like Mobil1 0w40 that carries the LL01 spec that this car probably requires.
 

sparkyjonze

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I agree with this, just regular 5w30 is probably not helping it live a long life at all. All BMW engines have an engine oil spec they need to meet. It is there for a reason. Can't really compare Mobil1 5w30 to something like Mobil1 0w40 that carries the LL01 spec that this car probably requires.
Agreed. I will be switching. Just trying to settle on what the new one will be.
 

sparkyjonze

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Don’t know anything specific about your car however I’d start by ensuring that the PCV system and vent is clear and operating as designed, air filter isn’t clogged, oil drain back holes aren’t blocked with sludge, and last run some Berrymans through the intake, in the fuel, and several short oil changes for stuck rings.
Are you of the opinion that running a cleanser through the intake can reverse/improve poor oil consumption? How would you free up drain back holes? Thanks for your input.
 
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The Berrymans injested through the intake/throttle body will enter the combustion chamber and free up stuck piston rings if they are stuck. It will smoke excessively during and for a short while afterwards. The drain back holes in the head have to be approached by digging out the sludge and blowing with compressed air. Perhaps a necked down nozzle on a shop vacuum may be a better help while dislodging the crusty sludge. After that operation a sludge removal additive in the oil, run it for a few miles, then several short oil changes will help.
 
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sparkyjonze

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The Berrymans injested through the intake/throttle body will enter the combustion chamber and free up stuck piston rings if they are stuck. It will smoke excessively during and for a short while afterwards. The drain back holes in the head have to be approached by digging out the sludge and blowing with compressed air. Perhaps a necked down nozzle on a shop vacuum may be a better help while dislodging the crusty sludge. After that operation a sludge removal additive in the oil, run it for a few miles, then several short oil changes will help.
Thanks for that. I'm guessing that you don't think just doing the sludge removal additive/flush followed by several short oil changes would do much. Or maybe you do depending on severity of sludge. I can tell you I shined a flashlight in there and don't see strong evidence that oil isn't draining back. No pooling in other words.
 
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Thanks for that. I'm guessing that you don't think just doing the sludge removal additive/flush followed by several short oil changes would do much. Or maybe you do depending on severity of sludge. I can tell you I shined a flashlight in there and don't see strong evidence that oil isn't draining back. No pooling in other words.
Try the easy stuff first. Berrymans etc. No pooling, probably not sludged. Do you ever see blue smoke? Modern cars with catalytic converters sometimes can lessen that. Tailpipe(s) seem oily? Is the undercarriage wet with oil (leaking)?
Great possibility that the wear of the engine has created the oil consumption. Has it ever been overheated (rings collapsed)? Sometimes it’s hard drawing a conclusion. I’m not sure I’m helping but I hope you can get it figured out.
 
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Thanks for that. I'm guessing that you don't think just doing the sludge removal additive/flush followed by several short oil changes would do much. Or maybe you do depending on severity of sludge. I can tell you I shined a flashlight in there and don't see strong evidence that oil isn't draining back. No pooling in other words.
I’m so confused here, did you post pictures of the sludge?
 

sparkyjonze

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I generally don’t like that. Many people do it, I am not sure how it would exactly help your case. Reason why I recommend Mobil1 0W40 in particular is that is has very rich additive package, some esters in it. It has excellent cleaning capabilities. I would try that first and see where it goes.
But again, if there is smoke after idling, nothing can help but replacing valve stems. You can lower consumption going really thick oil like Mobil1 10W40 HM, but that is about it.
There is a puff of smoke after idling. Not a great deal of volume and only for a brief moment or two. I'd call it not extremely white, some gray in it. Definitely not blue.
 
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