You make a good point, but remember that Redline can be run in extended OCI situations as they state a max of 15-18K for cars and trucks seeing mostly highway miles and 7.5K for short trip rigs. Pales in comparison, but like you mention Redline is more about power and performance.
I'm putting the Redline 0w30 in today...
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Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
RL 0W-20 is lighter than ASM 0W-20
40C vis 42.6 cSt vs 49.0 with Amsoil
100C 8.2 vs 9.0
HTHS 2.7 cP vs 2.8 cP
I'm not looking for extended drains I'm looking for better protection of an engine that sees hard use and calls for a 20 grade oil. I don't want to run a 30 grade oil.
I happen to prefer 0W20 oils over 5W20. So I wanted to compare RL 0W20 to Amsoil 0W20. Price after the PC fee etc is going to be close I think. Looking at the numbers it seems on paper Amsoil 0W20 takes the cake.
RL 0W-20 is lighter than ASM 0W-20
40C vis 42.6 cSt vs 49.0 with Amsoil
100C 8.2 vs 9.0
HTHS 2.7 cP vs 2.8 cP
I'm not looking for extended drains I'm looking for better protection of an engine that sees hard use and calls for a 20 grade oil. I don't want to run a 30 grade oil.
I happen to prefer 0W20 oils over 5W20. So I wanted to compare RL 0W20 to Amsoil 0W20. Price after the PC fee etc is going to be close I think. Looking at the numbers it seems on paper Amsoil 0W20 takes the cake.
How do you figure? You can get Redline at Carquest for under $10 a quart nation wide and not pay any shipping on it at all you just have to ask them to order it for you it comes in on their regular truck! Amsoil is at least $8.60 then you have the $20 preffered customer charge and then you have shipping! Amsoil is PAO and Redline is POE and PAO and has a lot more additives.
The additives are what protect when the hydrodynamic wedge fails.
The additives are what protect when the hydrodynamic wedge fails.
From Roy Howell:
Quote:
There are always trade-offs in engine oils, and we try to enhance antiwear and friction reduction at higher temperatures and loads, while trying to maintain performance at lower and normal loads and temperatures.
Redline does well in Drag Racing.
http://www.redlineoil.com/motorsports.aspx?mid=4
Quote:
There are always trade-offs in engine oils, and we try to enhance antiwear and friction reduction at higher temperatures and loads, while trying to maintain performance at lower and normal loads and temperatures.
Redline does well in Drag Racing.
http://www.redlineoil.com/motorsports.aspx?mid=4
Originally Posted By: AzFireGuy79
You make a good point, but remember that Redline can be run in extended OCI situations as they state a max of 15-18K for cars and trucks seeing mostly highway miles and 7.5K for short trip rigs. Pales in comparison, but like you mention Redline is more about power and performance.
Oh no doubt it can but their focus is performance and not extended OCI's because IMO that is where their market is. I'm sure it could very well do extended OCI's.
Steve
You make a good point, but remember that Redline can be run in extended OCI situations as they state a max of 15-18K for cars and trucks seeing mostly highway miles and 7.5K for short trip rigs. Pales in comparison, but like you mention Redline is more about power and performance.
Oh no doubt it can but their focus is performance and not extended OCI's because IMO that is where their market is. I'm sure it could very well do extended OCI's.
Steve
Originally Posted By: JohnBrowning
How do you figure? You can get Redline at Carquest for under $10 a quart nation wide and not pay any shipping on it at all you just have to ask them to order it for you it comes in on their regular truck! Amsoil is at least $8.60 then you have the $20 preffered customer charge and then you have shipping! Amsoil is PAO and Redline is POE and PAO and has a lot more additives.
The additives are what protect when the hydrodynamic wedge fails.
I will have to check to see what my Car Quest up here carries it for... Thanks for posting this.
How do you figure? You can get Redline at Carquest for under $10 a quart nation wide and not pay any shipping on it at all you just have to ask them to order it for you it comes in on their regular truck! Amsoil is at least $8.60 then you have the $20 preffered customer charge and then you have shipping! Amsoil is PAO and Redline is POE and PAO and has a lot more additives.
The additives are what protect when the hydrodynamic wedge fails.
I will have to check to see what my Car Quest up here carries it for... Thanks for posting this.
Originally Posted By: JohnBrowning
How do you figure? You can get Redline at Carquest for under $10 a quart nation wide and not pay any shipping on it at all you just have to ask them to order it for you it comes in on their regular truck! Amsoil is at least $8.60 then you have the $20 preffered customer charge and then you have shipping! Amsoil is PAO and Redline is POE and PAO and has a lot more additives.
The additives are what protect when the hydrodynamic wedge fails.
Re-reading what I wrote my reply was somewhat confusing. RL is the better deal price wise, and no shipping or PC fees.
The ASM 0W20 looks like it is slightly better on paper than the Red Line 0W20. Now if the Red Line is a PAO with a better add pack then it would be the better deal all the way around. Sorry for the confusion, and thanks for clearing things up. Looks like it will be Red Line for my father for now on!
How do you figure? You can get Redline at Carquest for under $10 a quart nation wide and not pay any shipping on it at all you just have to ask them to order it for you it comes in on their regular truck! Amsoil is at least $8.60 then you have the $20 preffered customer charge and then you have shipping! Amsoil is PAO and Redline is POE and PAO and has a lot more additives.
The additives are what protect when the hydrodynamic wedge fails.
Re-reading what I wrote my reply was somewhat confusing. RL is the better deal price wise, and no shipping or PC fees.
The ASM 0W20 looks like it is slightly better on paper than the Red Line 0W20. Now if the Red Line is a PAO with a better add pack then it would be the better deal all the way around. Sorry for the confusion, and thanks for clearing things up. Looks like it will be Red Line for my father for now on!
The 0w-20 from RL does not look as good, but man their 5w-20 looks good.
Originally Posted By: StevieC
I will have to check to see what my Car Quest up here carries it for... Thanks for posting this.
I don't recall ever seeing RL at Carquest in my area. Post back and let us know if you find something.
I will have to check to see what my Car Quest up here carries it for... Thanks for posting this.
I don't recall ever seeing RL at Carquest in my area. Post back and let us know if you find something.
They carry a lot of stuff not on the shelf, but if you ask they have it in the back rooms or can order it next-day.
I buy all kinds of stuff from CQ and they are excellent to deal with.
Way better than PartSource or Canadian Tire.
I buy all kinds of stuff from CQ and they are excellent to deal with.
Way better than PartSource or Canadian Tire.
Originally Posted By: elwaylite
The 0w-20 from RL does not look as good, but man their 5w-20 looks good.
How does this not look as good?
Quote:
Redline 0W20 Motor Oil
API Service Class SM/SL/SG/CF
Viscosity Grade SAE 0W20
Vis @ 100°C, cSt 8.2
Vis @ 40°C, cSt 43
Viscosity Index 166
CCS Viscosity, Poise, @*C 55@-35
Pour Point, °C -60
Pour Point, °F -76
Flash Point, °C 216
Flash Point, °F 421
NOACK Evaporation Loss,1hr @ 482°F (250°C), % 9
HTHS Vis, cP @150°C, ASTM D4741 2.7
The 0w-20 from RL does not look as good, but man their 5w-20 looks good.
How does this not look as good?
Quote:
Redline 0W20 Motor Oil
API Service Class SM/SL/SG/CF
Viscosity Grade SAE 0W20
Vis @ 100°C, cSt 8.2
Vis @ 40°C, cSt 43
Viscosity Index 166
CCS Viscosity, Poise, @*C 55@-35
Pour Point, °C -60
Pour Point, °F -76
Flash Point, °C 216
Flash Point, °F 421
NOACK Evaporation Loss,1hr @ 482°F (250°C), % 9
HTHS Vis, cP @150°C, ASTM D4741 2.7
Bad wording on my part, was referring to the 5w-20 Redline. Better Flash, NOACK and HTHS.
And it still has better cold-flow properties that rival most 0w20's... It's a no brainer IMO.
I would rate them equal... A UOA on each using the same application would be the best call.
ADFD1,
Let's leave out price for a moment...
The Amsoil 0W20 has the following advantages:
-HTHS (slightly)
-TBN (potential for longer drains)
-much lower CCS value at -35C
-slightly lower NOACK
-slightly higher flash point
Redline 0W20:
-POE formulation
-perhaps more highly additized
-lower pour point
-lower running viscosity (both 40C and 100C)
-no VII's
I guess you have to decide for yourself what's more important to you. If I were to go with one or the other, I'd take the Amsoil 0W20 in my personal situation. Everyone's is different. Price will have to factor in there somewhere as well.
Edit: I just want to add, I think all of these comparisons are academic for the most part. In any realistic situation, I really do believe that either oil is leaps and bounds ahead of what you need, and will protect to the greatest degree.
Let's leave out price for a moment...
The Amsoil 0W20 has the following advantages:
-HTHS (slightly)
-TBN (potential for longer drains)
-much lower CCS value at -35C
-slightly lower NOACK
-slightly higher flash point
Redline 0W20:
-POE formulation
-perhaps more highly additized
-lower pour point
-lower running viscosity (both 40C and 100C)
-no VII's
I guess you have to decide for yourself what's more important to you. If I were to go with one or the other, I'd take the Amsoil 0W20 in my personal situation. Everyone's is different. Price will have to factor in there somewhere as well.
Edit: I just want to add, I think all of these comparisons are academic for the most part. In any realistic situation, I really do believe that either oil is leaps and bounds ahead of what you need, and will protect to the greatest degree.
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ASM 0W-20 with a 100C vis of 9 cSt is as close to a 30 wt oil as you can get without being called so; the same for RL 5W-20 and Asmoil RD20 5W-20.
If RL 0W-20 lighter than you like simply add in some RL 0W-30. Using the Rohmax viscosity calculator you can precisely chose whatever vis you want. The two grades formulations are the same except the 0W-30 has a small amount of VII in it while the 0W-20 has none.
If RL 0W-20 lighter than you like simply add in some RL 0W-30. Using the Rohmax viscosity calculator you can precisely chose whatever vis you want. The two grades formulations are the same except the 0W-30 has a small amount of VII in it while the 0W-20 has none.
I was at the gas station filling up and I pulled the dipstick (as usual) and I haven't used any oil at all and the oil is actually getting cleaner looking that it was when I first put it in. (Weird)
It's lighter than the picture I posted before... I will snap a photo tomorrow. (Didn't have a camera with me)
Steve
It's lighter than the picture I posted before... I will snap a photo tomorrow. (Didn't have a camera with me)
Steve
Originally Posted By: StevieC
I was at the gas station filling up and I pulled the dipstick (as usual) and I haven't used any oil at all and the oil is actually getting cleaner looking that it was when I first put it in. (Weird)
It's lighter than the picture I posted before... I will snap a photo tomorrow. (Didn't have a camera with me)
Steve
That's pretty much my experience. Mine didn't get lighter but it darkened the first day or two and then has stayed the same at it's current 4,000 miles.
I was at the gas station filling up and I pulled the dipstick (as usual) and I haven't used any oil at all and the oil is actually getting cleaner looking that it was when I first put it in. (Weird)
It's lighter than the picture I posted before... I will snap a photo tomorrow. (Didn't have a camera with me)
Steve
That's pretty much my experience. Mine didn't get lighter but it darkened the first day or two and then has stayed the same at it's current 4,000 miles.
Do you know the differences in moly and ZDDP? The RL 5W30 has 950ppm moly, 1330 zinc and 1200 ph, don't know the 0W-20.
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