Just experimenting...
I'm putting the Redline 0w30 in today...
- Thread starter StevieC
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Just experimenting...
It started over a year ago when I found this place... Now look how much time I waste spend here...
^lol... Great thread Stevie. You're making me want to try the Redline (probably 0W40), even after a very happy lifetime of Amsoil
We definitely do have issues
P.S. - I haven't forgot about the Faema, I'm just ridiculously busy at the moment!!!
We definitely do have issues
P.S. - I haven't forgot about the Faema, I'm just ridiculously busy at the moment!!!
Dang, John's post has me interested now. I just put Amsoil 0w-20 in my Scion, but the Sonata 2.4L is almost due. Maybe I'll drop some Redline 5w-20 in there.
can't r-e-s-i-s-t... must order some redline.. yes, must order some.
Ok, what I really like from Redline's site is their 0w40! Why, well, I have a subaru boxer and I bet the 40 weight would be right up her ally. What's equally impressive is the cold weather specs on the 0w40... very impressive!! It might be the perfect oil for a boxer engine.. on paper anyway.
Ok, what I really like from Redline's site is their 0w40! Why, well, I have a subaru boxer and I bet the 40 weight would be right up her ally. What's equally impressive is the cold weather specs on the 0w40... very impressive!! It might be the perfect oil for a boxer engine.. on paper anyway.
^I second that idea. Redline's 0W40 is really appealing to me. Their specs are very similar to Amsoil's 0W40, but obviously the formulation is totally different.
Originally Posted By: il_signore97
^lol... Great thread Stevie. You're making me want to try the Redline (probably 0W40), even after a very happy lifetime of Amsoil
We definitely do have issues
P.S. - I haven't forgot about the Faema, I'm just ridiculously busy at the moment!!!
No worries... Always
^lol... Great thread Stevie. You're making me want to try the Redline (probably 0W40), even after a very happy lifetime of Amsoil
We definitely do have issues
P.S. - I haven't forgot about the Faema, I'm just ridiculously busy at the moment!!!
No worries... Always
Originally Posted By: elwaylite
Dang, John's post has me interested now. I just put Amsoil 0w-20 in my Scion, but the Sonata 2.4L is almost due. Maybe I'll drop some Redline 5w-20 in there.
The 5w20 has an awesome HTHS rating... You should read the PDS on it.
Amsoil is a fabulous product and their customer service is excellent but this RedLine oil is performing very well so far from what I can tell.
I can't wait to see the UOA after a few runs...
Dang, John's post has me interested now. I just put Amsoil 0w-20 in my Scion, but the Sonata 2.4L is almost due. Maybe I'll drop some Redline 5w-20 in there.
The 5w20 has an awesome HTHS rating... You should read the PDS on it.
Amsoil is a fabulous product and their customer service is excellent but this RedLine oil is performing very well so far from what I can tell.
I can't wait to see the UOA after a few runs...
Originally Posted By: webfors
can't r-e-s-i-s-t... must order some redline.. yes, must order some.
Ok, what I really like from Redline's site is their 0w40! Why, well, I have a subaru boxer and I bet the 40 weight would be right up her ally. What's equally impressive is the cold weather specs on the 0w40... very impressive!! It might be the perfect oil for a boxer engine.. on paper anyway.
Originally Posted By: il_signore97
^I second that idea. Redline's 0W40 is really appealing to me. Their specs are very similar to Amsoil's 0W40, but obviously the formulation is totally different.
I seem to have better pressure with the 0w30 Red Line than the 0w30 Amsoil SSO so you might want to try the 30wt before stepping up to a 40 because it might not be needed.
can't r-e-s-i-s-t... must order some redline.. yes, must order some.
Ok, what I really like from Redline's site is their 0w40! Why, well, I have a subaru boxer and I bet the 40 weight would be right up her ally. What's equally impressive is the cold weather specs on the 0w40... very impressive!! It might be the perfect oil for a boxer engine.. on paper anyway.
Originally Posted By: il_signore97
^I second that idea. Redline's 0W40 is really appealing to me. Their specs are very similar to Amsoil's 0W40, but obviously the formulation is totally different.
I seem to have better pressure with the 0w30 Red Line than the 0w30 Amsoil SSO so you might want to try the 30wt before stepping up to a 40 because it might not be needed.
Originally Posted By: JohnBrowning
First yes it goes to work that fast. My Camry has a quite engine to start with but with Redline in it you can not tell it running even if you are standing outside the car. Additive chemistry works almost instantly as does nice film strength.
I put some Castrol Syntec in my car once because it was on clearance at Walmart at the time. I think it was 10W40 or 0W30 but was not the Castrol GC type. It was noisy in my engine. I added some additive to the oil I think at the time I was using Molakules SX-UP additive. The noise level droped as I was pouring it into the engine!
Ester's are chmical completly different from PAO,GII,GII and GI oils. They have higher film strength, HTHS,and are less effected by heat and cold temp.'s! They pump easier and shear less then anything else in motor oil. The are very polar where as all other base stocks used in car oil have no real polar action at all. Ester's are what is used in Jet Engine Oil primarily and it is also what you would use to lubricate parts in a space ship or satalite.
Amsoil was origanaly ester based long long ago before changing to PAO. Ester's cost a lot more then any other base stock hence their rare usuage today. Companies like MOtul,Torco,VP Racing,NEO,Redline, FUchs Titan are some of the odd ball companies that still sell oils that are either mostly ester or all ester based.
Because of the polar nature of ester's they will actualy get under things like varnish so that they can attach themselfs to the metal in the engine. They will generaly find a way to get under anything that stands between them and metal. THis is also why we see such extreme cleaning effect of all the oxides from Fe to Pb and everything in between in an engine. This is also why they keep an engine so clean as long as they are in the pores of the metal nothing else can stick to it.
You also find that it takes more heat to cook them into carbon or sludge. They will flow towards the hot parts will most other oils will try to flow away from hot parts.
If ever you did get any varnish(not likely) due tot he polar nature of ester's youcan clean the varnish off with Iso Alc.!
How does the RL 0W20 stack up against the Amsoil 0w20?
First yes it goes to work that fast. My Camry has a quite engine to start with but with Redline in it you can not tell it running even if you are standing outside the car. Additive chemistry works almost instantly as does nice film strength.
I put some Castrol Syntec in my car once because it was on clearance at Walmart at the time. I think it was 10W40 or 0W30 but was not the Castrol GC type. It was noisy in my engine. I added some additive to the oil I think at the time I was using Molakules SX-UP additive. The noise level droped as I was pouring it into the engine!
Ester's are chmical completly different from PAO,GII,GII and GI oils. They have higher film strength, HTHS,and are less effected by heat and cold temp.'s! They pump easier and shear less then anything else in motor oil. The are very polar where as all other base stocks used in car oil have no real polar action at all. Ester's are what is used in Jet Engine Oil primarily and it is also what you would use to lubricate parts in a space ship or satalite.
Amsoil was origanaly ester based long long ago before changing to PAO. Ester's cost a lot more then any other base stock hence their rare usuage today. Companies like MOtul,Torco,VP Racing,NEO,Redline, FUchs Titan are some of the odd ball companies that still sell oils that are either mostly ester or all ester based.
Because of the polar nature of ester's they will actualy get under things like varnish so that they can attach themselfs to the metal in the engine. They will generaly find a way to get under anything that stands between them and metal. THis is also why we see such extreme cleaning effect of all the oxides from Fe to Pb and everything in between in an engine. This is also why they keep an engine so clean as long as they are in the pores of the metal nothing else can stick to it.
You also find that it takes more heat to cook them into carbon or sludge. They will flow towards the hot parts will most other oils will try to flow away from hot parts.
If ever you did get any varnish(not likely) due tot he polar nature of ester's youcan clean the varnish off with Iso Alc.!
How does the RL 0W20 stack up against the Amsoil 0w20?
RL 0W-20 is lighter than ASM 0W-20
40C vis 42.6 cSt vs 49.0 with Amsoil
100C 8.2 vs 9.0
HTHS 2.7 cP vs 2.8 cP
40C vis 42.6 cSt vs 49.0 with Amsoil
100C 8.2 vs 9.0
HTHS 2.7 cP vs 2.8 cP
If you are going to use a 20wt use the 5w20 Red Line it's PDS is impressive!
Originally Posted By: StevieC
Also I called Shawn at Wild Goose Performance today to see how much the RL 0w30 is going for now and for all the Canucks that are interested he has it at: $11.82 / Quart. This is a $0.67 / quart cheaper than what I paid a couple weeks ago.
I can't wait to do a UOA after a few consecutive runs to see how it is looking...
Got a quote from Shawn earlier this week on some RL 5W-30 and 5W-40 for a friend's Porsche 996. Price was $11.03 and $11.08 respectively. Only had 2 qts of 5W-40 available and would have to wait a couple of weeks to get more.
Even though Dave at Red Line said it would be fine to use their 5W-30 (has a higher HTHS vis than M1 0W-40 - Porsche factory fill). My friend decided to stick with M1. Got a volume discount (10 litre sump) @ $8.55/L .
Also I called Shawn at Wild Goose Performance today to see how much the RL 0w30 is going for now and for all the Canucks that are interested he has it at: $11.82 / Quart. This is a $0.67 / quart cheaper than what I paid a couple weeks ago.
I can't wait to do a UOA after a few consecutive runs to see how it is looking...
Got a quote from Shawn earlier this week on some RL 5W-30 and 5W-40 for a friend's Porsche 996. Price was $11.03 and $11.08 respectively. Only had 2 qts of 5W-40 available and would have to wait a couple of weeks to get more.
Even though Dave at Red Line said it would be fine to use their 5W-30 (has a higher HTHS vis than M1 0W-40 - Porsche factory fill). My friend decided to stick with M1. Got a volume discount (10 litre sump) @ $8.55/L .
It's in the mail and on the way to Terry... Just waiting for the lab to analyze it... Will PM you the results...
I want to get those RP filters from you soon because I want to test them this winter with the cold flow properties... Can we hook up at a store?
I want to get those RP filters from you soon because I want to test them this winter with the cold flow properties... Can we hook up at a store?
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
RL 0W-20 is lighter than ASM 0W-20
40C vis 42.6 cSt vs 49.0 with Amsoil
100C 8.2 vs 9.0
HTHS 2.7 cP vs 2.8 cP
Tbn of 8.3 vs 12.1 for Amsoil. Amsoil will hold up about a 1/3 longer, in general.
Redline will have the advantage in ridiculously high temperatures.
Oh, the PP for the RL is -76F!
RL 0W-20 is lighter than ASM 0W-20
40C vis 42.6 cSt vs 49.0 with Amsoil
100C 8.2 vs 9.0
HTHS 2.7 cP vs 2.8 cP
Tbn of 8.3 vs 12.1 for Amsoil. Amsoil will hold up about a 1/3 longer, in general.
Redline will have the advantage in ridiculously high temperatures.
Oh, the PP for the RL is -76F!
It is common that a higher initial TBN will lead to a long lasting TBN, but not always... Only a UOA with the same mileage on both used in the same application will show the truth.
Amsoil also markets themselves for extended OCI Red Line is for superior performance.
Amsoil also markets themselves for extended OCI Red Line is for superior performance.
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