i need a crank sensor beck/arnley or BWD

[bowlofturtle]

Ok my infiniti just threw a fit and died on the road. Was able to start it up after a couple long cranks, in a series of 5 minutes it died on me 4 times and then started running like normal after that.

Got fault P0355 which for nissans is a crankshaft pos. sensor circuit A.

I called my infinfi dealership, they wantee $125.03 for it. Talked to parts guy about how often a crank sensor poops and he said he doesn't sell many of those. My g35/350z boards seem to have more cam sensor issues then cranks.

Car is running great now but i think i should replace that sensor for the [censored] of it. This isn't like a o2 sensor where i can live with it being bad. This goes bad my car dies in the middle of the road.

AAP had 2 brands Beck/arnley for $63 and BWD $44 ( prices are before coupons). ebay has OEM for $73. This is a sensor i care about so i guess i should invest in OEM right or should aftermarket do.

 

[JHZR2]

You sure the code wasnt transcribed wrong? Did you properly x-ref the number with Nissan's coding structure?

Can you find out who actually manufactures the OEM ones?

 

[edwardh1]

oem is good.
my car set a check engine light with a napa coil pack, although the napa coil pack cured the skip, but light would come on- oem cured it.

 

[HTSS_TR]

Amazon has Beck Arnley part# 180-0501 for $47 with free super saver shipping.

Rockauto has the same part for $44 + shipping, there is 5% discount code floating around.

 

[bowlofturtle]

well i read of the code off my scanner P0355 it read crank sensor

Googled P0355 and generic code shows Misfire on cylinder 5. A single cylinder, [censored] multiple cylinder misfires is not very likely to cause my car to die while in motion. And if it did i would of felt the misfire shaking before it died. It was just going down 40mph and RPM DROP to zero,followed by all the lights and obviously no power steering. It started right back up instantly and went maybe a block and then died and started to just to crank.

P0355 is 100% right unless my code reader is dumb. Generic is misfire on 5, googled P0355 NISSAN and shows crank sensor. Not sure why nissan went different route with the meaning. But plenty of sentra and 2.5 altima guys posting about it.

On g35driver and my350z, they are pretty HUGE boards and i've only found a slight handful of post related to cranksensor replacements. Most need to replace cam sensors. I wish the car right now would be a NO START so if i replace the sensor and it works i know thats the solution.

Since its a intermittent problem, i feel like i'm throwing parts at it. FSM has ohm readings and to make sure the wiring is good. I"m going to do that in a little bit but i rather have the sensor on hand.

no clue how to find out who makes the OEM ones because not much help from my car specific forum.

 

[bowlofturtle]

is Beck Arnley @$47 or BWD a good brand VS OEM @$74? if this was o2 or knock sensor i would easily gone the cheapest route with BWD, it had lifetime warranty as well. Anything that doesn't cause a risk to my life is fine.

I've heard Beck Arnley is sometimes the OEM vendor for sensors.

 

[Trav]

BWD is Standard Motor Products Borg Warner Division. The part will be exactly the same as if you bought Standard red box, both will most likely be made in Europe or Japan by Intermotor.

Intermotor is good stuff and again its more than a possibility that an Intermotor will be in the Beck and Arnley box also.
I have seen this a hundred times, just yesterday on a Suberu TPS switch. All three were the same part exactly right down to the molding machine marks but the BWD was cheaper by far.
With the AA coupon its a no brainer.

Edit: The parts are as good as OEM, it could even be an OEM supplier.

 

[HerrStig]

I am not sure Beck Arnley makes anything themselves, they usually rebox. If it's Asian, it's probably Denso or one of the other OEM Asian makers.

 

[bowlofturtle]

this is how i feel most times when i buy autoparts now. In most cases its based of the service and warranty you get from the retailer. In rare cases it parts quality.


SS977 - BWD/innermotor will cost me about $30-35, gotta find a useful filler item to break $50 to get 20off.

 

[dtownfb]

bowlofturtle: If the trouble code is P0355, the specific Infiniti description is "Ignition Coil 5 Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction". Here's the official diagnosis from the Infiniti Help forum: http://infinitihelp.com/diy/obd_codes/p0355.html

I didn't search in the forum for a solution. I think you have to be a member to search or post a question.

Good luck.

 

[dailydriver]

Trav;
Generally, what would make these go bad, something in the engine oil, a strong FilterMag near them, stop light in-ground sensors ???!!!

I also had to replace one on my Z28 last year, and I just heard from a friend (forgot to ask which car) who also had to replace one.

 

[Trav]

Originally Posted By: dailydriver
Generally, what would make these go bad, something in the engine oil, a strong FilterMag near them, stop light in-ground sensors ???!!!


Heat and contamination from fluids are the major culprits but it could just as easily be just component failure like anything electronic.
I don't think a filter magnet would have much of an effect on it but maybe someone with electronics experience can chime in.

 

[bowlofturtle]

Originally Posted By: dtownfb
bowlofturtle: If the trouble code is P0355, the specific Infiniti description is "Ignition Coil 5 Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction". Here's the official diagnosis from the Infiniti Help forum: http://infinitihelp.com/diy/obd_codes/p0355.html

I didn't search in the forum for a solution. I think you have to be a member to search or post a question.

Good luck.


interesting you posted that from an infiniti site that refers to coil #5. But trav, posted off the FSM which was what i read looking at. FSM > *

 

[charbaby]

When I replaced the Crank PS and Cam PS in my Altima, I replaced them together and got them at RockAuto. In my car, they were the same part#. Also, there may be an upgraded sensor that are not plastic but, metal(entering the engine).

Look for the upgraded sensors if there are any!

My OE's were all plastic(rectangle) and the newer sensors are metal(round) on the ends that enter the engine. It's the plastic that cracks and allows oil to enter the sensors electrical connnector.

Also, on the new redesigned sensors, the electrical end(female) was repositioned to the other side for easier installation. The OE connectors was right in front of the 10mm hold down bolt causing removal/installation issues. On the redesigned sensors, this has been changed.

I don't know it this is tha same on the Infinity but the pic's above look similar to what I had with the exception of the placing of the connector which seem OK in the picture.

 

[Trav]

I read PO335 but you have PO355. My eyes are not what they use to be. 335 is the CPS 355 is the Ignition Coil '5' Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction as dtownfb posted.

Where the heck did i get 335?

 

[dtownfb]

Originally Posted By: Trav
I read PO335 but you have PO355. My eyes are not what they use to be. 335 is the CPS 355 is the Ignition Coil '5' Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction as dtownfb posted.

Where the heck did i get 335?



Easy mistake to make. I re-read the original post 5 times to make sure he had written P0355.

 

[bowlofturtle]

sorry i'm in an idiot, it is 335 for the crank.