I HATE brake hydraulic issues

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My wife's 2002 Corolla was using the original brake fluid (yikes), hoses, calipers and wheel cylinders. Her brakes started feeling kinda wooden a few months ago, just slowly losing their feel and grab to the point that she has lost her confidence in them if she ever had to panic stop, but they worked OK. Brakes should be better than 'OK' especially for a loved one so they needed attention.

I inspected the rear brakes, did a minor adjustment and bled them without issue, getting rid of lots of nasty dark fluid. This did not help the 'lack of feel' problem at all but it was certainly worth doing anyway. The shoes are dry, the wheel cylinders are working and the hoses look fine.

Moving to the front, I proceeded to snap off the bleeder screw on the passenger side caliper, bringing this project to a screeching halt. Awesome. Might as well replace the rusty nasty calipers anyway, and while I'm at it, the hoses too. Fast-forward a few weeks to this past weekend, and the right front caliper, bracket and hose have all been replaced and bled properly (front pads and rotors have plenty of life left so they weren't replaced). I took the car for a drive and it still felt exactly the same. No better unfortunately but not any worse either.

The driver's side caliper and hose were replaced last and the lines bled thoroughly. Took the car for a drive and the pedal is now quite a bit lower(!) but they grab a little better(?) now which makes no sense at all. I drove it around the neighborhood and they do work well enough to stop the car safely but they feel very different and do not inspire a lot of confidence. I fumed about it overnight and proceeded to bleed the entire system again yesterday, getting nothing but bubble-free clean fluid from each corner. The problem still persists.

I'm trying to come up with a checklist of things I can look at before I take it somewhere to have the system bled with some super-super special vacuum machine only to come up with the same result. I just don't see how there is any air hiding in the Corolla's relatively simple non-ABS system at this point. I've ruled out the master cylinder since it is not exhibiting any typical MC issues like leaking from the rear seal or fading pedal requiring a quick extra pump. The pedal never hits the floor either.

Going on the fact that this didn't happen until the driver's front corner was done, I'm going to assume the problem is there somewhere. Bad new hose that's expanding (unlikely)? Caliper with wrong size piston meant for a different car and packaged wrong (also unlikely)? Hydraulic-locked slide pins that have too much grease packed in them pushing the caliper off the pad when pedal pressure is released? I'm running out of ideas here. I need to get back under the car again tonight with some fresh eyeballs and figure this out.
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It could be the master cylinder.

When you depress the brake pedal does it get hard and stay in position or does it slowly go down further?
 
I just went through this with my Mustang. I replaced both front brake hoses and flushed through a litre of dot 4. The abs pump needs to be bled and only a dealer can do it. The computer brings the pump up on pressure then you crack each bleed.

Dorman makes a decent hose if you need to replace with non oem.
 
+1 on the first two replies.

Pedal height has little to do with brake "grab".

Bleed it again this time all four during one session.

I do 15 strokes per wheel by hand. RR; LF; LR; RF is the order I would use for that car. Make sure you and your assistant have perfect communication.

If that doesn't improve it, I would start looking closely at the master cylinder and booster.
 
I made the mistake of letting my reservoir go dry while bleeding one time way back when due to a lip that held fluid and gave the appearance to my helper that the fluid level was still good.

Anyway, I used a liter of Super Blue and still had a mushy pedal, even though I was getting air-free fluid out. You're not going to believe this, but another guy in the hobby shop was there, and just HAPPENED to be using the same brake fluid (I would have used any DOT4, though, to be honest,) and he let me use his leftover fluid.

I can't recall how much extra I had to use, but the pedal finally firmed up after bleeding each side, in order (inside and out of the Brembos) and I didn't have any issues since that day. It may not be the fix, but going another THOROUGH round was what did it for me, just when I was at my wits end.
 
Did you push the brake pedal to the floor? Probably the M/C has been damaged. Try bleeding the system properly again first. The older I get the more things I hate!!!
 
If there's no external fluid leaking, M/C piston would be a good place to look. As someone mentioned, ABS may need special tools/ procedures after replacing M/C to get functioning. Usually a PITA.
 
Originally Posted By: KGMtech
Does the vacuum booster hold vacuum?

Yes. Is it what it's supposed to be? No idea but I know that yes it does work.

Originally Posted By: 2009Edge
When you depress the brake pedal does it get hard and stay in position or does it slowly go down further?

It stays put and does not lose pressure. It's just lower than it should be.

Originally Posted By: zach1900
Calipers are iron. Rust isn't going to hurt them. What was wrong with the hoses?

The piston boots were dried out on both and ripped on one. The pistons were rusty. Everything was covered in flaking rust and brake dust. One bleeder screw was broken off. All fixable but not worth my time when $50/each will buy remanufactured calipers and mounting brackets. The hoses seemed OK but after 13+ years of use and filled with the same fluid, and since I had to remove one end already to do the calipers, new hoses were a cheap 'while I was in there' preventative maintenance job.

Originally Posted By: Cardenio327
Pedal height has little to do with brake "grab".

Bleed it again this time all four during one session.

I'm aware of that and was not implying that it did, just stating that the brakes felt very different now. All four corners were bled again yesterday.

Originally Posted By: CT8
Did you push the brake pedal to the floor? Probably the M/C has been damaged. Try bleeding the system properly again first.

I told my helper specifically not to push the pedal to the floor but I'm sure it happened a few times considering how many times we did this. Doing so should not cause any damage to the MC but yes I'm aware the rubber piston seals would be traveling through seldom-used areas of the MC bore which may cause seal wear and internal leakage. But as mentioned above, the pedal does not settle to the floor under continuous pressure so I'm pretty sure that's not the problem. And yes, the whole system was bled again yesterday.

Originally Posted By: umungus1122
If there's no external fluid leaking, M/C piston would be a good place to look. As someone mentioned, ABS may need special tools/ procedures after replacing M/C to get functioning. Usually a PITA.

There is no brake fluid leaking anywhere. This car does NOT have ABS.

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I appreciate the replies, everyone. Thank you.
 
Does it feel worse when the car is off and you've depleted the vacuum reserve? "Wooden" could be unboosted.

If you bled it dry, accidentally, you could have an air pocket in the "far end" of your master cylinder. This needs "bench bleeding" but I've always wondered if you could point the car down a steep, steep hill and bleed the wheels, and do so safely. On many cars, the "far end" points uphill from the firewall.

The fix is to get some scrap line, remove the mc, hook it to the ports, and have the scrap line point back into the reservoir when you push its plunger by hand. Then refit the MC to the car without getting a bubble back in there.
 
Originally Posted By: eljefino
Does it feel worse when the car is off and you've depleted the vacuum reserve? "Wooden" could be unboosted.

If you bled it dry, accidentally, you could have an air pocket in the "far end" of your master cylinder. This needs "bench bleeding"

The booster does work. The brakes would be worthless without it. It could have a vacuum leak somewhere but again, that was an earlier issue. The brakes feel boosted, just lower now.

I got the MC reservoir real low by accident but I don't think it went dry. It's entirely possible I guess but with the amount of fluid I've sent through it by now, I have a hard time thinking it still had air trapped in it somewhere.
 
Originally Posted By: Bottom_Feeder

I got the MC reservoir real low by accident but I don't think it went dry. It's entirely possible I guess but with the amount of fluid I've sent through it by now, I have a hard time thinking it still had air trapped in it somewhere.


That's the thing with bench bleeding, sometimes it just has to happen. If you look at where the taps are that go off to the wheels, they are on the bottom, but not near the front. You can have air space up front that you won't ever push down a tube and out a bleeder.

You'd know this if the replacement MC comes with plastic tubes for bench bleeding on your app. Some do, some don't.
 
Originally Posted By: The_Eric
Are you sure you've got the back brakes dialed up enough? That will effect the pedal height.

Yes indeed. It's actually an issue on these cars apparently, the automatic adjusters work poorly or not at all. I have to crank them out once a year or so once the pedal starts feeling low and the e-brake feels high. They were adjusted when I did the original rear brake bleed a few months ago and tweaked again this weekend.

But yes, rear drums out of adjustment are exactly what this feels like now, probably the best way to describe it.
 
Originally Posted By: mech_tech
Did you use DOT 4 brake fluid???? As I understand it, DOT 4 has slightly more compressability than DOT 3.

Nope, I used commonly available Prestone DOT 3.
 
Only other thing that comes to mind that I have not seen in any reply yet is the caliper itself that you replaced. I never did much auto work for a living but did work in an equipment shop for a while, and the boss was the cheapest guy I ever met. He would often order chinese aftermarket parts in place of OEM and they never did act right, brake parts included. For instance, the master cylinders would never give the same pedal grab so I had to adjust the pedal linkages every time. My point is, it is possible the caliper is not an exact duplicate of the one you replaced, giving a different pedal height just as I had to deal with at that job. I would have to adjust the pedal itself to make up for the difference in fluid movement in the stroke of the master cylinder's piston. I also once had changed a master cylinder 3 times in a row, each time with a brand new "aftermarket" master cylinder. Finally after the third time instead of bleeding the system with the master cylinder itself I used a vacuum bleeder, and suddenly it worked perfect from that day on. Come to find out having to stroke the piston just a tad bit further than it's typical travel caused it to leak internally at the seal. Again, just another random hypothesis to consider. I hope my pain and suffering has helped you somehow!!!!
 
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