My latest work project was replacing the engine in a 2015 Jeep Grand Cherokee with the Pentastar. The reason for replacement was blown head gaskets, caused by the customer getting in a wreck and tearing the front end off the truck. He then proceeded to keep driving until it got so hot it popped. Insert theory here.... Anyway.
I've received countless used engines over the years, which as anyone in the industry knows is always a crap shoot. That being said, newer cars are built to be modular: major components like the engine and transmission are designed to be installed and removed at the factory with the least amount of labor and time possible within reason. Example: on this particular vehicle, the ENTIRE engine and trans harness terminates in 3 spots. One PCM connector. One chassis connector. One B+ connection at the fuse box. There's also a single block to chassis ground cable that's easily accessible. Bam, engine is out.
Why, then, does a yard feel the need to DESTROY a perfectly good harness? It took them longer to hack through the 35ish wires in the darn harness than it would have to flip 2 quick-connects and undo one 10mm nut. This particular engine not only had a ruined harness, but it had a destroyed intake came VVT actuator, a broken thermostat, a damaged water pump, the upper intake vacuum ports were broken off, and the oil pan had a hole in it. Needless to say, I was extremely annoyed because I had to spend at least 2 additional hours going over this pile with a fine toothed comb making sure I wasn't missing any other issues.
I'm happy to report, however, that the engine is in and I got it fired up today. It runs flawlessly, and I'll admit I had my doubts it would. The truck has 81k miles on it and I was told the engine was close to the same. The replacement engine got new plugs and a new oil cooler/filter housing while it was out along with upper and lower intake gaskets. I removed, cleaned, and installed the oil pan off the junk engine to solve the hole issue. The engine started after about 3 seconds of cranking and other than the initial timing chain clatter it runs great. I give it 3 weeks until it starts throwing cat codes or O2 codes, there was so much coolant in the exhaust it took almost 15 miles of highway driving to clear it out, and that was after running for 25 minutes in the shop puking white.
I've received countless used engines over the years, which as anyone in the industry knows is always a crap shoot. That being said, newer cars are built to be modular: major components like the engine and transmission are designed to be installed and removed at the factory with the least amount of labor and time possible within reason. Example: on this particular vehicle, the ENTIRE engine and trans harness terminates in 3 spots. One PCM connector. One chassis connector. One B+ connection at the fuse box. There's also a single block to chassis ground cable that's easily accessible. Bam, engine is out.
Why, then, does a yard feel the need to DESTROY a perfectly good harness? It took them longer to hack through the 35ish wires in the darn harness than it would have to flip 2 quick-connects and undo one 10mm nut. This particular engine not only had a ruined harness, but it had a destroyed intake came VVT actuator, a broken thermostat, a damaged water pump, the upper intake vacuum ports were broken off, and the oil pan had a hole in it. Needless to say, I was extremely annoyed because I had to spend at least 2 additional hours going over this pile with a fine toothed comb making sure I wasn't missing any other issues.
I'm happy to report, however, that the engine is in and I got it fired up today. It runs flawlessly, and I'll admit I had my doubts it would. The truck has 81k miles on it and I was told the engine was close to the same. The replacement engine got new plugs and a new oil cooler/filter housing while it was out along with upper and lower intake gaskets. I removed, cleaned, and installed the oil pan off the junk engine to solve the hole issue. The engine started after about 3 seconds of cranking and other than the initial timing chain clatter it runs great. I give it 3 weeks until it starts throwing cat codes or O2 codes, there was so much coolant in the exhaust it took almost 15 miles of highway driving to clear it out, and that was after running for 25 minutes in the shop puking white.
In the OP's case, maybe he/she only bought the engine and not the harness(es). In that case, they're not obligated to disconnect them nicely. Doesn't mean they can't, but that's not what he/she paid for (maybe).
