Just stocked up for at least a couple of years worth of oil changes with GC and K&N oil filers...killer deal at AZ. 5 qrts of Syntec and K&N oil filter for 27.99.
I can't decide which Synthetic to run ...
- Thread starter ARCOgraphite
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I have had great success with either Napa or WalMart full synthetic. Inexpensive, $20plus for a 5 qt jug and good oil. keep your oci between 5-6 thousand miles and your engine will last forever.
Originally Posted By: GhostFlame
I have had great success with either Napa or WalMart full synthetic. Inexpensive, $20plus for a 5 qt jug and good oil. keep your oci between 5-6 thousand miles and your engine will last forever.
Tried them, no likey. Looks like SOPUS is (possibly) making the Supertech "syn" now (clear bottle). Napa is just Valvoline of a different colour.
I have had great success with either Napa or WalMart full synthetic. Inexpensive, $20plus for a 5 qt jug and good oil. keep your oci between 5-6 thousand miles and your engine will last forever.
Tried them, no likey. Looks like SOPUS is (possibly) making the Supertech "syn" now (clear bottle). Napa is just Valvoline of a different colour.
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NO insight on the Castrol syntec 5w-30 NOT HAVING the GM corvette approval 4719M spec?
What is your determining factor(s) as to if you like or dislike a given oil? Are you doing UOAs on every fill? Do you pull the valve cover off at every OC?
Originally Posted By: 09rexwagon
What is your determining factor(s) as to if you like or dislike a given oil? Are you doing UOAs on every fill? Do you pull the valve cover off at every OC?
Dont need to do that. I go by engine performance and fuel mileage. And the absence of my TC tensioner getting stuck. Once i get these things nailed down THEN i'll worry about the other stuff. I Cant find a nice running oil in the 5w-30 grade! As an engine builder, I dont worry about whats under the cover between valve clearancing - unless I got a spring problem or a rocker that slipped. Then usually there is that pushrod sticking out of the valve cover.
What is your determining factor(s) as to if you like or dislike a given oil? Are you doing UOAs on every fill? Do you pull the valve cover off at every OC?
Dont need to do that. I go by engine performance and fuel mileage. And the absence of my TC tensioner getting stuck. Once i get these things nailed down THEN i'll worry about the other stuff. I Cant find a nice running oil in the 5w-30 grade! As an engine builder, I dont worry about whats under the cover between valve clearancing - unless I got a spring problem or a rocker that slipped. Then usually there is that pushrod sticking out of the valve cover.
UOA's Funny! Cant tell much about PC oil with a UOA in short interval OCI's. If you think you can, your fooling yourself. I can tell vis from the drivers seat, and my under 5K OCI means never to worry about base depletion.
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
UOA's Funny! Cant tell much about PC oil with a UOA in short interval OCI's. If you think you can, your fooling yourself. I can tell vis from the drivers seat, and my under 5K OCI means never to worry about base depletion.
So the butt dyno can tell you the viscosity of the oil in the crankcase...interesting. How do you discriminate between varying air density from point a to point b, relative humidity, air temp, inconsistencies in fuel (even from same station, same pump, same grade). I'm fooling myself? Give me a break. You can tell the difference between 88whp and 88.2whp..sure.
If this car is such a problem that you are getting to this point with regards to oil, then you have a lemon or Toyota should be bankrupt. If your timing change tensioner is having problems on even 'low end' synthetic, why hasn't all the Yaris on the road been recalled?
UOA's Funny! Cant tell much about PC oil with a UOA in short interval OCI's. If you think you can, your fooling yourself. I can tell vis from the drivers seat, and my under 5K OCI means never to worry about base depletion.
So the butt dyno can tell you the viscosity of the oil in the crankcase...interesting. How do you discriminate between varying air density from point a to point b, relative humidity, air temp, inconsistencies in fuel (even from same station, same pump, same grade). I'm fooling myself? Give me a break. You can tell the difference between 88whp and 88.2whp..sure.
If this car is such a problem that you are getting to this point with regards to oil, then you have a lemon or Toyota should be bankrupt. If your timing change tensioner is having problems on even 'low end' synthetic, why hasn't all the Yaris on the road been recalled?
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Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
I go by engine performance
I agree with that. Different cars can seem to "like" different oils per se. My gf`s old Probe ran like crahp on Pennzoil yb,ran excellent on Valvoline wb,and ran like brand new on M1. My friend`s Altima runs like a dream on Pennzoil yb and Valvoline wb,but she`s been getting GTX oil changes from the dealer the last few oci`s (because I don`t have the time to do it for her all the time) and he car has slappy ticky startups every time and doesn`t run nearly as smooth.
I go by engine performance
I agree with that. Different cars can seem to "like" different oils per se. My gf`s old Probe ran like crahp on Pennzoil yb,ran excellent on Valvoline wb,and ran like brand new on M1. My friend`s Altima runs like a dream on Pennzoil yb and Valvoline wb,but she`s been getting GTX oil changes from the dealer the last few oci`s (because I don`t have the time to do it for her all the time) and he car has slappy ticky startups every time and doesn`t run nearly as smooth.
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Dont need to do that. I go by engine performance and fuel mileage. And the absence of my TC tensioner getting stuck. Once i get these things nailed down THEN i'll worry about the other stuff. I Cant find a nice running oil in the 5w-30 grade! As an engine builder, I dont worry about whats under the cover between valve clearancing - unless I got a spring problem or a rocker that slipped. Then usually there is that pushrod sticking out of the valve cover.
All those pushrods in either the Toyota or Subaru motors coming through the valve covers?
I'd better go check my Toyota and Subaru for any signs of that happening since I'm not running syn.
Dont need to do that. I go by engine performance and fuel mileage. And the absence of my TC tensioner getting stuck. Once i get these things nailed down THEN i'll worry about the other stuff. I Cant find a nice running oil in the 5w-30 grade! As an engine builder, I dont worry about whats under the cover between valve clearancing - unless I got a spring problem or a rocker that slipped. Then usually there is that pushrod sticking out of the valve cover.
All those pushrods in either the Toyota or Subaru motors coming through the valve covers?
I'd better go check my Toyota and Subaru for any signs of that happening since I'm not running syn.
In warm climate Super Tech or PP, because group III is an excellent class base oil.
For cold climate, Mobil 1 or GC, because groups IV and V reduce wear during cold start.
For cold climate, Mobil 1 or GC, because groups IV and V reduce wear during cold start.
Originally Posted By: Bill in Utah
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Dont need to do that. I go by engine performance and fuel mileage. And the absence of my TC tensioner getting stuck. Once i get these things nailed down THEN i'll worry about the other stuff. I Cant find a nice running oil in the 5w-30 grade! As an engine builder, I dont worry about whats under the cover between valve clearancing - unless I got a spring problem or a rocker that slipped. Then usually there is that pushrod sticking out of the valve cover.
All those pushrods in either the Toyota or Subaru motors coming through the valve covers?
I'd better go check my Toyota and Subaru for any signs of that happening since I'm not running syn.
Haha, nice catch. I thought about that too, but he must have been referencing engine building on engines that are not his lawnmower engine in the Yaris or the Boxer in the Forester.
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Dont need to do that. I go by engine performance and fuel mileage. And the absence of my TC tensioner getting stuck. Once i get these things nailed down THEN i'll worry about the other stuff. I Cant find a nice running oil in the 5w-30 grade! As an engine builder, I dont worry about whats under the cover between valve clearancing - unless I got a spring problem or a rocker that slipped. Then usually there is that pushrod sticking out of the valve cover.
All those pushrods in either the Toyota or Subaru motors coming through the valve covers?
I'd better go check my Toyota and Subaru for any signs of that happening since I'm not running syn.
Haha, nice catch. I thought about that too, but he must have been referencing engine building on engines that are not his lawnmower engine in the Yaris or the Boxer in the Forester.
Originally Posted By: 09rexwagon
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
UOA's Funny! Cant tell much about PC oil with a UOA in short interval OCI's. If you think you can, your fooling yourself. I can tell vis from the drivers seat, and my under 5K OCI means never to worry about base depletion.
So the butt dyno can tell you the viscosity of the oil in the crankcase...interesting. How do you discriminate between varying air density from point a to point b, relative humidity, air temp, inconsistencies in fuel (even from same station, same pump, same grade). I'm fooling myself? Give me a break. You can tell the difference between 88whp and 88.2whp..sure.
If this car is such a problem that you are getting to this point with regards to oil, then you have a lemon or Toyota should be bankrupt. If your timing change tensioner is having problems on even 'low end' synthetic, why hasn't all the Yaris on the road been recalled?
I did not talk to any of these points you mention. And, Stay away from Starbucks ... ... Oh, Toyota is pretty good at hiding their engine problems - e.g. those thousands sludger Camry 4 cyls ... My boss had his Camry die at 58K with regular OCi of semi syn valvoline on short interval OCI
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
UOA's Funny! Cant tell much about PC oil with a UOA in short interval OCI's. If you think you can, your fooling yourself. I can tell vis from the drivers seat, and my under 5K OCI means never to worry about base depletion.
So the butt dyno can tell you the viscosity of the oil in the crankcase...interesting. How do you discriminate between varying air density from point a to point b, relative humidity, air temp, inconsistencies in fuel (even from same station, same pump, same grade). I'm fooling myself? Give me a break. You can tell the difference between 88whp and 88.2whp..sure.
If this car is such a problem that you are getting to this point with regards to oil, then you have a lemon or Toyota should be bankrupt. If your timing change tensioner is having problems on even 'low end' synthetic, why hasn't all the Yaris on the road been recalled?
I did not talk to any of these points you mention. And, Stay away from Starbucks ... ... Oh, Toyota is pretty good at hiding their engine problems - e.g. those thousands sludger Camry 4 cyls ... My boss had his Camry die at 58K with regular OCi of semi syn valvoline on short interval OCI
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Originally Posted By: Bill in Utah
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Dont need to do that. I go by engine performance and fuel mileage. And the absence of my TC tensioner getting stuck. Once i get these things nailed down THEN i'll worry about the other stuff. I Cant find a nice running oil in the 5w-30 grade! As an engine builder, I dont worry about whats under the cover between valve clearancing - unless I got a spring problem or a rocker that slipped. Then usually there is that pushrod sticking out of the valve cover.
All those pushrods in either the Toyota or Subaru motors coming through the valve covers?
I'd better go check my Toyota and Subaru for any signs of that happening since I'm not running syn.
No, I'm taking 600HP BB ford and Chevy digger motors, why would I waste my time building a Toy 1.5L? You guys are starting to scare me, maybe it was that Zombie movie I watched last night ...
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Dont need to do that. I go by engine performance and fuel mileage. And the absence of my TC tensioner getting stuck. Once i get these things nailed down THEN i'll worry about the other stuff. I Cant find a nice running oil in the 5w-30 grade! As an engine builder, I dont worry about whats under the cover between valve clearancing - unless I got a spring problem or a rocker that slipped. Then usually there is that pushrod sticking out of the valve cover.
All those pushrods in either the Toyota or Subaru motors coming through the valve covers?
I'd better go check my Toyota and Subaru for any signs of that happening since I'm not running syn.
No, I'm taking 600HP BB ford and Chevy digger motors, why would I waste my time building a Toy 1.5L? You guys are starting to scare me, maybe it was that Zombie movie I watched last night ...
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Lynch mob mentatlity here - The 'Middle America' the President warned me about.
Originally Posted By: addyguy
There are some UOA's on here that show Yaris's run just fine on conventional 5W-30 oils.
Unless you're going 10k+ on a fill, no need for synthetic.
I stated I had tesioner sticking on the conventionals. Thats my reason. I have no tensioner sticking on the psuedo-synthetics. Current fill = 3+ qts Valvoline synpower + 1/2qt M1 Racing 4T for much improved smoothness and revvability over the synpower alone. I attribute the perceived improvement with the M1R4T coctail to be vis and better EP ADDS.
There are some UOA's on here that show Yaris's run just fine on conventional 5W-30 oils.
Unless you're going 10k+ on a fill, no need for synthetic.
I stated I had tesioner sticking on the conventionals. Thats my reason. I have no tensioner sticking on the psuedo-synthetics. Current fill = 3+ qts Valvoline synpower + 1/2qt M1 Racing 4T for much improved smoothness and revvability over the synpower alone. I attribute the perceived improvement with the M1R4T coctail to be vis and better EP ADDS.
mixing is really not bad but it isn't good either.
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