I can't decide which Synthetic to run ...

[ARCOgraphite]

Originally Posted By: Bill in Utah
If someone is putting on a supercharger on a Yaris, I think oil is the less of their problems after making a mod like that.

I think its silly too - especially on a 10:1 compression motor. But TOYOTA (TRD) sells it as a dealer (and owner) bolt on. Go figure that one.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

Originally Posted By: Old Mustang Guy
I'm sorry but I love talking about Arco Graphite. A friend of mine retired from Arco. I take every opportunity to kid him about it. I remember looking at it in the auto parts stores. I briefly considered using it then I heard about a guy that put it in his car and it started knocking like it was about to blow. He drained it out and put in his regular brand and the car was fine. Probably no truth in this but it is a nice story.
Probably true - even though a micro powder - it could agglomerate and clog stuff. Probabaly why we lost our race engine too. I didnt do the tear down on it to confirm. We ran oil screens not filters then.

 

[Bill in Utah]

Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite




Originally Posted By: Bill in Utah
If someone is putting on a supercharger on a Yaris, I think oil is the less of their problems after making a mod like that.

I think its silly too - especially on a 10:1 compression motor. But TOYOTA (TRD) sells it as a dealer (and owner) bolt on. Go figure that one.


You know the old saying;

"A fool and his money are soon parted"

Someone who supercharges their Yaris (or Corolla (I know TRD sells one for it) needs some assistance....

 

[StevieC]

Assistance = Psychiatrist!

 

[ARCOgraphite]

Thats what kids do these days - the yaris and Civic and mazda 3 are the falcons and novas and camaros and mustangs, etc. we used to jack up with shackles and put cherrybombs on Oh, some maybe got that errant weiand intake with a 600 CFM holley carb and duals and headers.

 

[Steve S]

Probably won't matter in the whole picture of things. Some one will hit your car and total it out before any oil will make a difference. Any decent oil of your choice [pick one ,there will not be enough difference to notice] will allow your engine as long a life as it is going to get.

 

[Steve S]

It is not the oil is is poor designing.

 

[ProStreetCamaro]

Originally Posted By: MysticGold04
Just use and stick with PP! Best one out there for the $$


Nah for the money GT-1 full syn or motorcraft full syn would get my vote. Both proven excellent budget synthetics.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

Just for fun, I put the hated one in - syntec 5w30 with beloved Wix 51396 larger filter (51394 is wix book#). Just 10mins ago finished the fastideous OC at 24025 miles. I have ALL the used filters catalogued & saved for this car from day-one.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

I havent used BP/castrol since the mid eighties. Syntec has a strong add pack up with PP. PP feels to "gooey" to me when it gets hot. Must be the unwinding Vii polymer molecules - YB feels like this to me too - but NOT EoM Clean 5000. Never had much luck AT ALL with ConocoPhillips, Amalie, Peak, Irving.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

Originally Posted By: Steve S
It is not the oil is is poor designing.
I'll agree to some extent. A pushrod v8 with roller cam never gave me much oil trouble at all - other than ignition. Maybe the Asian engine designs are not designed expressly for conventional ILSAC lubricants? Toyota/yamaha has a poor record here with sludging on a widely applied engine. Is not N. America unique in its economy-grade oil recommendations compared to Europe and Oceana? Maybe we are the weak link.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

Originally Posted By: ProStreetCamaro
Originally Posted By: MysticGold04
Just use and stick with PP! Best one out there for the $$


Nah for the money GT-1 full syn or motorcraft full syn would get my vote. Both proven excellent budget synthetics.
C-P has your $20 cheque in the post as we speak

 

[element_42]

Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Originally Posted By: ProStreetCamaro
Originally Posted By: MysticGold04
Just use and stick with PP! Best one out there for the $$


Nah for the money GT-1 full syn or motorcraft full syn would get my vote. Both proven excellent budget synthetics.
C-P has your $20 cheque in the post as we speak


*eyes glaze over*
Conoco-Phillips products are very hard to beat and offer great value. All Hail C-P!!! All Glory to Havoline, TropArctic, Titanium, Kendall GT1, Motorcraft etc etc!!
*soul returns to body*

 

[Bill in Utah]

Originally Posted By: Steve S
It is not the oil is is poor designing.


Yeah all those Toyota's with the loud timing chains due to poor designed tensioners.

You see the complaints on that ALL the TIME!

Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Just for fun, I put the hated one in - syntec 5w30 with beloved Wix 51396 larger filter (51394 is wix book#). Just 10mins ago finished the fastideous OC at 24025 miles. I have ALL the used filters catalogued & saved for this car from day-one.


You asked on how to get it fixed if it does not do it all the time.

First I'd suggest you run the CORRECT oil filter. It is NOT NEEDED to go oversize and IF your engine DOES have a issue, you have just given Toyota a great reason to say "it sucks to be you".

Go back to the base line. CORRECT filter, CORRECT oil and drive the car. *IF* it has the issue (and you say it does all the time IE the "NEED" for your oil "cocktail") it SHOULD do it ALL the TIME with the "poor performing" Conventional oil.

Correct?

So if it is doing it then take it to the dealer and let them work on it. 25k miles is NOTHING. I've got almost 150k and other than some problems I had due to a extended OCI with a bad oil/filter combo (which was a one time problem and never came back again once I went to what I KNOW works) I've had no problems with the tensioner or the engine.

Bill

 

[ARCOgraphite]

Originally Posted By: Bill in Utah
Originally Posted By: Steve S
It is not the oil is is poor designing.


Yeah all those Toyota's with the loud timing chains due to poor designed tensioners.

You see the complaints on that ALL the TIME!

Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Just for fun, I put the hated one in - syntec 5w30 with beloved Wix 51396 larger filter (51394 is wix book#). Just 10mins ago finished the fastideous OC at 24025 miles. I have ALL the used filters catalogued & saved for this car from day-one.


You asked on how to get it fixed if it does not do it all the time.

First I'd suggest you run the CORRECT oil filter. It is NOT NEEDED to go oversize and IF your engine DOES have a issue, you have just given Toyota a great reason to say "it sucks to be you".

Go back to the base line. CORRECT filter, CORRECT oil and drive the car. *IF* it has the issue (and you say it does all the time IE the "NEED" for your oil "cocktail") it SHOULD do it ALL the TIME with the "poor performing" Conventional oil.

Correct?

So if it is doing it then take it to the dealer and let them work on it. 25k miles is NOTHING. I've got almost 150k and other than some problems I had due to a extended OCI with a bad oil/filter combo (which was a one time problem and never came back again once I went to what I KNOW works) I've had no problems with the tensioner or the engine.

Bill
The toyota filter made in Thailand (pn 90915Yzzf2) are GARBAGE. Motor will stick tensioner IMMEDIATELY upon using one of these low flowing pieces of junk. Happens time and time again eveytime I try one. The oil is correct IMO. Car runs fine on syn - just trying to fine tune smoothness and revvability/power without having to make a coctail. The Inferior (in rthis app) Synpower required a coctail. This motor cant run conventional oil - I think Bill has a sticking point that the "magic" conventional doesnt work in all engines. WEll guess what - it doesnt! Go to Yaris world and see ALL the engine noise complaints. Most folks dont understand this is not an inherently noisey, powerless or vibration prone motor, The guys running PP and Purolator or Wix filters have NO complaints. I'm a big boy, beenn around a dogs age, I built many a race motor putting out 1.5H/cu-in and I am a NIASE Master engine tech. I'm think I'm done with this thread. Thanks all for your advice.

 

[Bill in Utah]

Then put on Toyota's piece of junk and take your car into the dealership to get it fixed.

You asked the following above;

Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
How do I get the the dealer to recognise the tensioner sticking issue if it isnt grinding when I bring it in?


Looks like to me you have your answer. (why did you ask the question?)

Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
This motor cant run conventional oil - I think Bill has a sticking point that the "magic" conventional doesnt work in all engines. WEll guess what - it doesnt!


No Bill has a sticking point that MILLIONS OF Toyota engines with the SAME tensioner system are running just fine with conventional oils.

I happen to have one of the millions that have no issues. (and who has run the dozen of the same filter that you call junk with no issues from well below zero to well above 100 degrees.. All with conventional oils and perfect UOAs...)

Lucky me..

Whatever.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

Your 1.8L corolla runs a different sevice P/N (filter) than the Yaris. Dont know if the tensioner is the same design or supplier. Doesnt NUMMI have a engine plant in the US of A? I can't believe we dont have the same luck either! You are lucky

 

[ARCOgraphite]

Just checked the consolidated catalogue shows the 1.8L filter P/N as yzzf2. Same as the Yaris. I ran the Japon made Denso OEM 90915-10003 in the wifes rav 2azFE to eliminate her TC sticking. I had to buy gray market from japon at 9 bucks a whsck. This is a Depth-media type than came on the engine from japon. I should not have a problem with the service denso yzzf1 or 2. Maybe my Dealer had a bad batch. Been trying one every year and still dont flow enough to tension the TC.
** Grumpy Says: Thai food is good but not Thai Filter!