- Joined
- Jul 10, 2022
- Messages
- 4,209
Is that a variable condenser?
HVAC Problems
- Thread starter srfdude
- Start date
Oversizing the duct work doesn't reduce airflow.... it will reduce static pressure.
Carrier had a control package out for light commercial use.
They oversized all the ducts by 20%.
They had TStats that would control dampers on almost every duct.
That would enable them to "load shift".
They could put more air into the hotter areas throughout the day.
As far as sizing, they look at heat gain as part of the calculation.
So, a home farther south would require a larger unit.
That is sizing correctly.
The phone company I worked for designed for 105f ambient.
Depending on the building here, 350-400sq ft per ton of air.
The rest was DC load of the equipment.
Yes, although the air handler is a two-stage so no quite as variable as a whole as it could be.
- Joined
- Jul 10, 2022
- Messages
- 4,209
Yeah my install had the blower set to 600 cfm. The vents were blowing 43F when it was 95F outside. I told 2 professionals incl the salesman and they said your new system is really efficient!
Huge a** puddle in the basement and 9 days later? Suction line was white with frost, and the compressor was encased in ice, despite the temp being 95F….
If he has a 1" line I'm going out on a limb and guessing his system isn't now banned R22.
My 2 30 year old Carrier systems ARE R-22 and they still run fine. I have my own 25Lb jug of R22, which, of course, I let the certified guys mess with.
You are correct.
I was mostly responding to the guy who said you could get it for $250.
I see it for sale cheaper than the $1200, but all those sites set off virus alerts on my machine.
I wonder why the EPA isn't cracking down on these sites.
I have only been to one that required an EPA number.
Some make you check a box saying it is for resale only, others have nothing.
I bet it is all recycled freon at this point.
The OP hasn't come back since the original post to update anything.
I'm not sure I would trust his estimate of a 1" line, 7/8" seems more likely.
All that being said, it's funny to read all the "rule of thumb" and swag guesses.
Some of them can be in the ballpark and some not so much.
The problem is I don't have the equipment or experience to do this.
Sorry guys, I'm still here. My rough estimate of pipe OD when measured is actually .84", so not really 1". And if pipes are measured by ID, then not sure what that would be.
My question really wasn't going to imply that I would be adding'/changing refrigerants, but rather where would the problem lie. While I know that an IR shot on a somewhat corroded pipe won't be precise, it was an approximation with an implied question of what it should be coming out of the unit. Since the totally decomposed rubber insulating sleeve will result in temp loss, is that the whole problem or is the temp at the unit too high at +- 75°, considering ambient outside at the time was 103°?
I suspect you're low on refrigerant.
As I understand it there's no specific temp that the suction line should be other than as someone said "beer can cold".
Time to have someone inspect the system.
Plumbers use ID. HVAC guys use OD. Wall thickness is usually 1/8".
A 3/4" plumbing copper is the same size as a 7/8" HVAC pipe.
Reinsulating the line will not help.
75f sounds high.....unless the indoor temperature is high.
In order to tell you what temperature that line should be we would need to know what refrigerant, what type of expansion device, what the indoor temperature is and what the outdoor ambient is.
The refrigerant type will be on the data plate on the unit.
If it is not R22, the answer will be less clear.
Most of the other refrigerant types are charged with subcooling instead of superheat.
The better thing for you to check is the temperature across the evaporator coil.
an 18f-23f drop is in the acceptable range.
You can also check at the return air grille and at the closest supply grille to the unit.
It won't be as exact, but probably close enough.
Let the unit run 5-10 minutes before checking.
Just to beat the dead horse a little more, a cold suction line can be indicative of incorrect charge (over or a little under) and/or low airflow (dirty filter, dirty evap coil or a motor issue).
The idea is to get all the liquid freon to boil off into gas about 3/4 of the way through the evaporator coil.
If your suction line is very cold...you're not being efficient.
If you're compressor is sweating you have a problem.
Liquid freon getting back to the compressor can destroy it.
The idea is to get all the liquid freon to boil off into gas about 3/4 of the way through the evaporator coil.
If your suction line is very cold...you're not being efficient.
If you're compressor is sweating you have a problem.
Liquid freon getting back to the compressor can destroy it.
Is the outside condenser clean?
Yes I hosed it off, I do that about once a year. It never seems to get too dirty.
