The inlet solenoid does not seem to be closing down completely. There is a lock-nut screw on the outside of it. Any idea what is it used for? the valve opens and closes just does not close down completely. Is it serviceable? At first the metering orifice in the jet was clogged and no water was getting in to the humidifier panel. When I took off the output feed tube from the valve and put it back, the water started flowing but keeps on dripping all the time. Humidistat is working fine and I can hear the solenoid valve clicking and the flow does increase when it opens up.
humidifier water inlet solenoid valve adjustment?
- Thread starter Vikas
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The nut holds the coil on. No adjustment. Looks like it is 15 years old.
Not worth messing with, just replace the entire piece.
Not worth messing with, just replace the entire piece.
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Yes, the manufacturer claims that it has approximately 10 year service life.
I have never opened the inlet. Will there be flared fitting on that side? Do I have to reuse the nut on the inlet side with the new valve? I have no real experience with the copper side of that valve.
I presume reverse flushing the valve has no chance of fixing the small leak, correct? Unfortunately, unless I have the new valve in my hand, I am not willing to mess with existing one.
I have never opened the inlet. Will there be flared fitting on that side? Do I have to reuse the nut on the inlet side with the new valve? I have no real experience with the copper side of that valve.
I presume reverse flushing the valve has no chance of fixing the small leak, correct? Unfortunately, unless I have the new valve in my hand, I am not willing to mess with existing one.
A solenoid like that probably has a rubber disk that presses against a small orifice to shut off the flow. When the solenoid activates, the disk is pulled off the orifice a small amount, say .020" to .030" (a bit of a guess). If some crud gets stuck in the orifice, it can't close.
We had a problem like that at work in a similar compressed air solenoid. Chronic failures with solenoids jamming open. I took a solenoid apart, determined the critical size and we installed a small stainless steel strainer screen on the inlet to catch any debris large enough to jam the valve. Problem solved.
Rereading your description, it sounds like the valve seat is worn out.
The connection at the solenoid base is probably 1/8-NPT (1/8" pipe taper thread).
We had a problem like that at work in a similar compressed air solenoid. Chronic failures with solenoids jamming open. I took a solenoid apart, determined the critical size and we installed a small stainless steel strainer screen on the inlet to catch any debris large enough to jam the valve. Problem solved.
Rereading your description, it sounds like the valve seat is worn out.
The connection at the solenoid base is probably 1/8-NPT (1/8" pipe taper thread).
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Anybody has the electrical connection diagram for this valve? Either the valve is stuck closed (and still leaking slightly) or the signal from furnace is not being given to it. Most likely it is the former but I would like to rule out later. Two wires come from the humidistat and two wires come from the furnace controller. Can I check some voltage here before ordering the new valve?
Given that valve is already old and leaking, I need it anyway. Should I just replace it without bother to do any testing?
Given that valve is already old and leaking, I need it anyway. Should I just replace it without bother to do any testing?
It looks like you have hard water supplying the valve. Probably crusted up and sticking inside.
Chances are the copper line that runs from the solenoid into the humidifier has a tiny little orifice in it. Just make sure the humidifier switch is off, take off the copper line, take out the orifice, shove a pin through it and put it back on.
I keep an extra copper line and a few extra orifices, and every fall when I maintenance the humidifier I swap the copper line with a new (or cleaned out) orifice. Different colors denote different sizes.
For a while I couldn't find replacement orifices so I just adjusted the water flow at the saddle valve. If your orifice is plugged you can test it by turning on the furnace and triggering the humidifier with the orifice out.
Assuming it's the same solenoid that I have, it's only on or off. The amount of water flow is determined by the orifice. And if the orifice is plugged, the solenoid won't do anything. No clicks, nothing.
And on the off chance that your humidifier is an AutoFlo, make sure you purchase a few extra pads for it and don't throw away the pad holder. They don't make them anymore and the pad holders tend to be a bit scarce.
I keep an extra copper line and a few extra orifices, and every fall when I maintenance the humidifier I swap the copper line with a new (or cleaned out) orifice. Different colors denote different sizes.
For a while I couldn't find replacement orifices so I just adjusted the water flow at the saddle valve. If your orifice is plugged you can test it by turning on the furnace and triggering the humidifier with the orifice out.
Assuming it's the same solenoid that I have, it's only on or off. The amount of water flow is determined by the orifice. And if the orifice is plugged, the solenoid won't do anything. No clicks, nothing.
And on the off chance that your humidifier is an AutoFlo, make sure you purchase a few extra pads for it and don't throw away the pad holder. They don't make them anymore and the pad holders tend to be a bit scarce.
Put the new one in; the yellow orifice was not blocked.
The old one I am now soaking it in the hot vinegar. I thought coil was burnt as solenoid was not clicking but it is showing 17 ohms, so it should be fine.
As instructed here, I am putting the valve in the hot vinegar soak for few hours and then will check it against 12V. If it gets unstuck, I should be able to hear it click then.
The inside air was getting quite dry.
But thanks to ice dams and roof leaking, I was getting lots of water inside the house even before I fixed the humidifier :-( But that is another topic :-(
The old one I am now soaking it in the hot vinegar. I thought coil was burnt as solenoid was not clicking but it is showing 17 ohms, so it should be fine.
As instructed here, I am putting the valve in the hot vinegar soak for few hours and then will check it against 12V. If it gets unstuck, I should be able to hear it click then.
The inside air was getting quite dry.
But thanks to ice dams and roof leaking, I was getting lots of water inside the house even before I fixed the humidifier :-( But that is another topic :-(
Accidentally posted it in the wrong place
More questions on humidifier:-
It feels as if the incoming water is travelling straight through the panel rather than evaporating . The panel drain has the same flow rate as the incoming water. The pump which picks up the excess drained water is running all the time. I remember the pump used to run only occasionally in the past. The panel has water droplet all across it, so the distributor tray on the top seems to be doing its function.
I mean this whole contraption could not any simpler but I am still stumped :-(
More questions on humidifier:-
It feels as if the incoming water is travelling straight through the panel rather than evaporating . The panel drain has the same flow rate as the incoming water. The pump which picks up the excess drained water is running all the time. I remember the pump used to run only occasionally in the past. The panel has water droplet all across it, so the distributor tray on the top seems to be doing its function.
I mean this whole contraption could not any simpler but I am still stumped :-(
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