edyvw
$50 site donor 2025
Use them on Tiguan on winter wheels for 10 years. Never had an issue. Found really nice 16" wheels for cheap, brand new, but needed rings. And, that is about it.
Hub Centric Wheel Rings
- Thread starter SubLGT
- Start date
I use hubrings, just in case. I didn't for the first year after getting new rims for the FRS, but there was no difference when it came to vibrations or anything.
I prefer hubrings or oem wheels that are hubcentric without rings... but I have used winter sets that have wheels which dont work with hub rings.
in that case i carefully tighten in the air and they will center.. just need to be careful. I also torqued in 3 steps instead of 2.
Definitely prefer hub centering rings/oem style even the annoying ones that pop out or get stuck on hubs.
in that case i carefully tighten in the air and they will center.. just need to be careful. I also torqued in 3 steps instead of 2.
Definitely prefer hub centering rings/oem style even the annoying ones that pop out or get stuck on hubs.
Interesting discussion.. I've had issues with severe vibration since I put the Konig rims on the Festiva. Had them balanced several times to no avail. The plastic rings didn't last long I've just been pieceing them together. Maybe I'll try taking them out just to see what happens. Thought about some sort of metal ones. But I'm almost to the point of going back to steel wheels. Don't even want to drive it now days.
I got my plastic hub rings from US Wheel Adapters but they also make aluminum ones. My wheels are lug centric but I prefer to fill the space. I have Hyundai rims for 3 season on my Accord that have a larger center bore than the factory Honda. I also had to get different lugs for the correct taper/seat.
My old Sequoia was hub centric with the flat washers so that needed adapters if you changed anything like that. My wheels and winter were factory versions. Balancing at shops was an issue sometimes if it didn't sit correct. There were many threads on TundraSolutions back then.
@wander2039 - just had my daughters '08 CRV road force balanced a couple days ago at dealer. The normal speed balancing was good, I saw it done at 2 shops but still had vibration. Dealer did road force an found one that was higher, he rebalanced accordingly, said it was better and then asked permission to move it to the rear anyway just to help. He had checked with normal speed balance first and they were good. Road force showed the issue, so you might need to go that route. Check for a Hunter Road force balancer near you. My Honda dealer only charged $49.95 for all 4. Daughter said car was much better, nice and smooth all the way to 80mph. She's road tripping with it currently.
My old Sequoia was hub centric with the flat washers so that needed adapters if you changed anything like that. My wheels and winter were factory versions. Balancing at shops was an issue sometimes if it didn't sit correct. There were many threads on TundraSolutions back then.
@wander2039 - just had my daughters '08 CRV road force balanced a couple days ago at dealer. The normal speed balancing was good, I saw it done at 2 shops but still had vibration. Dealer did road force an found one that was higher, he rebalanced accordingly, said it was better and then asked permission to move it to the rear anyway just to help. He had checked with normal speed balance first and they were good. Road force showed the issue, so you might need to go that route. Check for a Hunter Road force balancer near you. My Honda dealer only charged $49.95 for all 4. Daughter said car was much better, nice and smooth all the way to 80mph. She's road tripping with it currently.
For $20 I'll get the metal ones. Matching wheels to hubs isn't always possible especially in aftermarket. And, like you posted twice, they ensure the wheel is centered on the hub. Guys working at tire shops are aggressive with impact wrenches, so the wheels are not on straight half of the time causing an out of balance condition.
@Sequoiasoon Thought about trying the road force again. DT was supposed to when they mounted them. Think I found another shop but kinda burned out on it.
I had vibration even with rings.
The cost savings are not worth the hassle if you have problems with your lug centric wheels.
Swapping to a better quality set is a good idea if you have issues though.
The cost savings are not worth the hassle if you have problems with your lug centric wheels.
Swapping to a better quality set is a good idea if you have issues though.
They’ve always have been on every car I’ve owned.
Always have been...
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It depends. Some cars in the 60s and even early 70s lacked hubcentric wheels, say aircooled VWs and Porsche 356 on rear at least.
Agreed. I admit I prefer hubcentric OE wheels without rings. In the past I owned several aftermarket wheels (many of them were BBS sold as Volkswagen 'Driver Gear') that don't require hub rings and currently I do run OE wheels only (made by ATS, BBS, Cromodora, Borbet, Fuchs, Ronal). I never owned wheels with rings since I didn't like this kind of bandaid.
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It depends. Some cars in the 60s and even early 70s lacked hubcentric wheels, say aircooled VWs and Porsche 356 on rear at least.
Agreed. I admit I prefer hubcentric OE wheels without rings. In the past I owned several aftermarket wheels (many of them were BBS sold as Volkswagen 'Driver Gear') that don't require hub rings and currently I do run OE wheels only (made by ATS, BBS, Cromodora, Borbet, Fuchs, Ronal). I never owned wheels with rings since I didn't like this kind of bandaid.
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This comment about center bore clearances and wheel-to-hub-indexing is interesting:
https://www.brakeandfrontend.com/on-car-wheel-balancing-wheel-to-hub-indexing/
The author of the article:
This is the author's recommended procedure for reducing vibration by wheel-to-hub indexing:
https://www.brakeandfrontend.com/on-car-wheel-balancing-wheel-to-hub-indexing/
The author of the article:
This is the author's recommended procedure for reducing vibration by wheel-to-hub indexing:
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