Hub Centric Wheel Rings

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A blog post from Summit Racing


...There are a couple of myths involving hub centric rings.

The first myth is that if you don’t use a hub centric ring, the wheel will never be centered on the axle, leading to uncomfortable wheel vibrations while driving. While it is more likely that the wheel will be off center without the use of hub centric rings, it is not impossible to center the wheel by following proper installation technique. However, Summit Racing recommends the use of hub centric rings to improve the ride quality of the wheel. The rings improve ride quality by holding the wheel centered while it is torqued down.

According to a second common myth, the weight of the vehicle is supported by the hub pilot mating with the center bore of the wheel. If you don’t use hub centric rings, you transfer the weight of the vehicle to the lug hardware, and the wheel studs will break.

Fact is, the hub centric rings do not bear a load. The weight of the vehicle is actually supported by the friction between the wheel and its mounting surface on the axle. The friction is established and maintained once the lug hardware is properly installed and torqued to specs.
 
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People will argue this one to death. Many track miles, R-Comp tires, hundreds of autocrosses, never used the rings, never had a problem.
Exactly.
Like "muffler bearings" and "blinker fluid", must be one of those useless things they make to get ppl to waste money.
:ROFLMAO:
 
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I’ve had to retorque wheels mounted with these rings after installation if brake pulsation shows up. There’s something a little wonky about the way they sit if they aren’t initially set just right as the wheel is torqued. my car uses acorn style lugs which should be enough to self-center, but….

I agree - the ring doesn’t carry weight; it just aids installation.
 
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Exactly.
Like "muffler bearings" and "blinker fluid", must be one of those useless things they make to get ppl to waste money.

They are free with wheel purchase the vast majority of the time.

I agree - the ring doesn’t carry weight; it just aids installation.

They literally centre the wheel on the hub. Hence the name.

The lug holes are larger than the studs. Therefore it is virtually impossible to properly centre a wheel on the hub without one.

Using aftermarket wheels without rings will result in vibration approximately 99% of the time.
 
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They are free with wheel purchase the vast majority of the time.



They literally centre the wheel on the hub. Hence the name.

The lug holes are larger than the studs. Therefore it is virtually impossible to properly centre a wheel on the hub without one.

Using aftermarket wheels without rings will result in vibration approximately 99% of the time.
Sure…. Except that the conical or acorn style lug nuts center the wheel to the stud once you begin tightening them. Try it as you install the first two lugs… they pull the wheel into final placement, centering the stud on the bore.
 
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Sure…. Except that the conical or acorn style lug nuts center the wheel to the stud once you begin tightening them. Try it as you install the first two lugs… they pull the wheel into final placement, centering the stud on the bore.

That’s the theory, but it’s not perfectly centred. The only exception is a lug centric wheel which is typically a racing wheel and uses special lug nuts.

I have solved hundreds (that’s not an exaggeration) of vibration issues with hub rings alone.
 
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That’s the theory, but it’s not perfectly centred. The only exception is a lug centric wheel which is typically a racing wheel.

I have solved hundreds (that’s not an exaggeration) of vibration issues with hub rings alone.
I can see that. I mean, I use the rings that came with mine and prefer to have them in place. But I don’t believe them to be ultimately perfect, as with my vehicle, as mentioned before, I’ve had to back them off and retorque them before. I suspect the ring is an aid, but not “all” of it. ??
 
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A hub ring is still a band-aid.

They exist because wheel manufacturers want to build one wheel to fit several vehicles. Why make a wheel specific for one manufacturer, or even one vehicle when you can open up the bore, then it will fit 30 cars if you use a hub ring to adapt it.

They do work though.
 
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They are free with wheel purchase the vast majority of the time.
So you have to buy new wheels to get them for "free"?
Doesn't sound like much of a deal to me!

I do agree tho, they do in fact work.
I'd prefer getting a wheel that matches the OEM hub size, negating the need for plastic rings that'll wear out over time (and need replacement to eliminate vibration).
 
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So you have to buy new wheels to get them for "free"?
Doesn't sound like much of a deal to me!

I do agree tho, they do in fact work.
I'd prefer getting a wheel that matches the OEM hub size, negating the need for plastic rings that'll wear out over time (and need replacement to eliminate vibration).

You can get metal ones, but you need to either make sure they’re anodized or put a tiny amount of antiseize on them. The biggest problem with plastic ones is guys who track, they just melt.

Good wheels will typically come with metal ones.
 
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A hub ring is still a band-aid.

They exist because wheel manufacturers want to build one wheel to fit several vehicles. Why make a wheel specific for one manufacturer, or even one vehicle when you can open up the bore, then it will fit 30 cars if you use a hub ring to adapt it.

They do work though.
Hey Jimmy, thanks for like being totally reasonable and helping me walk through the discussion. I learned something I didn’t know without some argument on the internet. I appreciate you having, admittedly, a better attitude than myself. High respect.

mike
 
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