HPL Cleaner - Drain Interval?

So lets say one uses this product, and they, at 3k just do a filter change, do you top off with EC or oil? Wonder which?

Or is it recommended to simply dump the sump and filter and start over?
When I was solely running HPL EC in my 2007 Camry in an attempt to reduce oil consumption, I just mixed it with a jug of oil and used that to top off, per HPL's recommendation. I dumped 1.5 quarts out of a 5 quart jug of oil and then added one quart of HPL EC to it to maintain the correct ratio.
 
With initial 1.5K mile OCI’s using WM Super Tech synthetic oil , I’d consider adding a bottle of Rislone Restore & Protect across the WM oil aisle to the oil to clean rings up which should help reduce oil consumption . I say this because rarely do I see Valvoline R&P in stock at WM on the shelf - online it’s available , but I believe $30 min. to get free shipping .
 
Wow thanks for all the replies! A couple things:
  1. Now that I think of it I overestimated how much oil it goes through, probably more like a half quart every 1k miles, not a full quart every 1k miles.
  2. I'm going to drain the oil this Friday AM and start the piston soak right after. I plan to go through a couple of bottles pouring in a little in each cylinder every 4 hours or so.
  3. I'll put the HPL EC30 and good synthetic in there after the soak and then will take it out for an Italian Tune up. I'll probably fill up the tank and add some Gumout w/Regane in there to let the PEA do a little work.
I didn't mention this but the last few oil changes have been Valvoline Restore and Protect just to see if it would help. At the end of this cleaning treatment I might give the BG EPR a try while I'm at it.
Any updates?
 
Any updates?
I changed the oil with the EC30 at about 3,300 miles last weekend (2/15/25). I added about 3/4 of a quart at 2,000 miles and at 3,300 miles I was still full. Wasn't very scientific about it but it looks like an improvement has been made.

For the oil change I put some fresh cheap Supertech in there and a can of BG's EPR which is known for helping to clean piston rings. The throttle on the Mazda is very touchy so keeping it at 1,200 RPM per the instructions for 20 minutes was near impossible so I just let it idle at 800RPM for about 35 minutes.

I then drained out the new oil and BG EPR, which was pretty dark, and put some fresh Supertech back in and I am driving it around a couple weeks to "rinse" it out before the switch to HPL Premium Plus 5W-30.

Next weekend will be the switch to HPL. I'll be keeping a much closer eye on oil consumption to see if all these cleaners have made a difference in oil consumption. If nothing else the engine will be spotless!
 
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When I was solely running HPL EC in my 2007 Camry in an attempt to reduce oil consumption, I just mixed it with a jug of oil and used that to top off, per HPL's recommendation. I dumped 1.5 quarts out of a 5 quart jug of oil and then added one quart of HPL EC to it to maintain the correct ratio.
That is actually too concentrated. The instructions stay 1:5 ratio. 1 quart EC to 5 quarts oil.
 
That is actually too concentrated. The instructions stay 1:5 ratio. 1 quart EC to 5 quarts oil.
If it's too concentrated what happens? If it's not concentrated enough what happens?

My first use in a 3 vehicles I actually measured out to keep the ratio. I think it was about 3/4 quart with 3.75 qts oil. After that I went with 1 quart EC30 and rest oil.

Now I do 1 qt of HPL PCMO with whatever oil I'm using. Most of my cars are about 4.5 qts except Pilot at 5.7 qts. Pilot has not seen any HPL versions of anything yet.
 
That is actually too concentrated. The instructions stay 1:5 ratio. 1 quart EC to 5 quarts oil.
Meh. Even extra-concentrated it couldn't touch the disaster that were my 2AZ-FE rings. But even after her B12 soak I am still substituting a quart of oil for HPL EC when I change it every 3000 miles (4.5 quart capacity at OCI). The engine doesn't seem to notice or care.
 
Run Supertech Syn for the next three 1.5k OCIs. That should get rid of the quick ink look. Then concentrate on getting / keeping the dipstick oil to remain semi-clear for the first 1k. Then begin using EC30 with an engine flush in there somewhere.

This method assures slow removal of a messy, dirty engine.
Why not just run VR&P for 3K mile OCI’s and skip the ST synthetic 1.5K OCI’s ? A GDI engine is going to produce soot turning oil darker no matter what oil you select .
 
My HPL EC30 should be delivered today or tomorrow by USPS.

Will use on friend’s 2018 Kia Soul + 2.0l gdi 4 cyl currently burning oil and at dealer today. The usual oil change is 4.2 qts/4L. But, I assume total fill on the engine (ie, a new engine) would be more…

Does it matter or just use the 5:1 ratio based on the 4.2 qts/4L amount in manual?
 
I’d run the full quart of EC + the 3.x quarts it takes to fill. Leave it in the normal 5k OCI.
Probably will leave it for 2000 miles and drain and refill with 5w30 VRP. Current fill is 5w20 ST Advanced. Want to bump up to 5w30 asap. And dealer saying combustion chamber cleaning should be done. Waiting on Kia to see if they will pick up the tab at dealer. If not, I may do BG EPR, 44k platinum and/or berryman b12 piston soak first. Then do EC30 with ST Advanced or Kirkland 5w30. Followed by 4 VRP 5w30 runs.

Looks like dry engine oil fill on the kia soul 2.0l gdi is 4.75 qts. Close enough to 5qts.

IMG_4965.webp
 
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Probably will leave it for 2000 miles and drain and refill with 5w30 VRP. Current fill is 5w20 ST Advanced. Want to bump up to 5w30 asap. And dealer saying combustion chamber cleaning should be done. Waiting on Kia to see if they will pick up the tab at dealer. If not, I may do BG EPR, 44k platinum and/or berryman b12 piston soak first. Then do EC30 with ST Advanced or Kirkland 5w30. Followed by 4 VRP 5w30 runs.

Looks like dry engine oil fill on the kia soul 2.0l gdi is 4.75 qts. Close enough to 5qts.

View attachment 275232
I would definitely do the piston soak first then run EC, it can be run to 5k mile oci's, if you want or straight to VRP. I would just keep an eye on the VRP as I and some others have noticed it can start to burn around 4k miles. I cut my oci back to 3k and it stayed full. Some get it to 5k miles with no burning so ymmv, either way good luck.
 
I changed the oil with the EC30 at about 3,300 miles last weekend (2/15/25). I added about 3/4 of a quart at 2,000 miles and at 3,300 miles I was still full. Wasn't very scientific about it but it looks like an improvement has been made.

For the oil change I put some fresh cheap Supertech in there and a can of BG's EPR which is known for helping to clean piston rings. The throttle on the Mazda is very touchy so keeping it at 1,200 RPM per the instructions for 20 minutes was near impossible so I just let it idle at 800RPM for about 35 minutes.

I then drained out the new oil and BG EPR, which was pretty dark, and put some fresh Supertech back in and I am driving it around a couple weeks to "rinse" it out before the switch to HPL Premium Plus 5W-30.

Next weekend will be the switch to HPL. I'll be keeping a much closer eye on oil consumption to see if all these cleaners have made a difference in oil consumption. If nothing else the engine will be spotless!
Ever try using Valvoline restore and protect?
It seems to have done pretty good on my neglected dodge Dakota beater truck.
 
Ever try using Valvoline restore and protect?
It seems to have done pretty good on my neglected dodge Dakota beater truck.
I did, but just one OCI because I learned about HPL and wanted to give it a shot. My wife does a lot of short trips so she doesn't rack up the miles very quick anymore, so a 3k OCI takes about 4 months.

But I tried an OCI of Hotshot's Stiction Eliminator which is just an Ester additive (I think), then an OCI of VRP, then HPL EC30, then BG EPR...and now HPL Premium Plus.

On this OCI of HPL Premium Plus she hasn't burned any oil in about 1,100 miles. Since it is cheap and widely available I'll probably stick with VRP after this OCI.
 
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