How’s your garden doing?
- Thread starter P10crew
- Start date
Mine is doing generally well, but a few problems with weather, critters, and bugs this year.
We had a late freeze in early May this year that killed my potatoes, and they never recovered. Groundhogs are usually my biggest problem - I shot one this year and have not seen any more since, so hopefully they are gone But now it appears a rabbit has now found its way in and started on my beans, corn, and cantaloupe. I just placed a radio in the garden tuned to a 24 hours talk station which worked well last year, so we'll see if it deters him.
Last year my eggplant was devastated by flea beetles and Colorado potato beetles, so this year I planted them under a row cover. So far so good. I am also growing my broccoli and cauliflower under row covers to keep out the cabbage worms and they look great. Without potatoes and eggplant to feed on the potato beetles are now after my tomatoes! I have been plucking them off and crushing their egg clusters, and sprayed with neem. Seems to be under control. The garlic, onions and peppers look great and the onions are starting to bulb. Have been harvesting the snap peas and will start the oregano and lettuce this week.
Here are some pictures. The garden is 50' x 50' and completely mulched with grass clippings.
![[Linked Image]](https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/attachments/usergals/2020/06/full-13181-45369-ts0_5916.jpg "[Linked Image]")
![[Linked Image]](https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/attachments/usergals/2020/06/full-13181-45370-ts0_5917.jpg "[Linked Image]")
![[Linked Image]](https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/attachments/usergals/2020/06/full-13181-45371-ts0_5918.jpg "[Linked Image]")
![[Linked Image]](https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/attachments/usergals/2020/06/full-13181-45372-ts0_5920.jpg "[Linked Image]")
We had a late freeze in early May this year that killed my potatoes, and they never recovered. Groundhogs are usually my biggest problem - I shot one this year and have not seen any more since, so hopefully they are gone But now it appears a rabbit has now found its way in and started on my beans, corn, and cantaloupe. I just placed a radio in the garden tuned to a 24 hours talk station which worked well last year, so we'll see if it deters him.
Last year my eggplant was devastated by flea beetles and Colorado potato beetles, so this year I planted them under a row cover. So far so good. I am also growing my broccoli and cauliflower under row covers to keep out the cabbage worms and they look great. Without potatoes and eggplant to feed on the potato beetles are now after my tomatoes! I have been plucking them off and crushing their egg clusters, and sprayed with neem. Seems to be under control. The garlic, onions and peppers look great and the onions are starting to bulb. Have been harvesting the snap peas and will start the oregano and lettuce this week.
Here are some pictures. The garden is 50' x 50' and completely mulched with grass clippings.
Anyone use aspirin on their tomato plants? Apparently it helps boost their immune system and improves resistance to diseases as well as makes them grow stronger/bigger.
Tom NJ,
beautiful pictures.
Re: potatoes, can you get them a cover next time like for garlic/onions?
RE: rabbit, can you plant some clover patch in a corner close to garden, leave the grass taller and don't use any pesticide? he will come for the taste.
I wonder if strobe light will do also....
beautiful pictures.
Re: potatoes, can you get them a cover next time like for garlic/onions?
RE: rabbit, can you plant some clover patch in a corner close to garden, leave the grass taller and don't use any pesticide? he will come for the taste.
I wonder if strobe light will do also....
Originally Posted by pandus13
Tom NJ,
beautiful pictures.
Re: potatoes, can you get them a cover next time like for garlic/onions?
RE: rabbit, can you plant some clover patch in a corner close to garden, leave the grass taller and don't use any pesticide? he will come for the taste.
I wonder if strobe light will do also....
My garlic and onions laugh at freezing temperatures, and I expected potatoes to as well, but it appears mid 20s was too much for them. I did have 8" of mulch over them, although the foliage was above the mulch. A row cover might have helped.
Good idea with the clover. I am assuming the culprip is a rabbit because I saw one in the yard a few days ago, and he is just eating portions of rows. A groundhog would devour an entire row, and then go on to the next. I put a Havahart trap out - we'll see if that lures him. If not I may have to pull a Elmer Fudd!
Tom NJ,
beautiful pictures.
Re: potatoes, can you get them a cover next time like for garlic/onions?
RE: rabbit, can you plant some clover patch in a corner close to garden, leave the grass taller and don't use any pesticide? he will come for the taste.
I wonder if strobe light will do also....
My garlic and onions laugh at freezing temperatures, and I expected potatoes to as well, but it appears mid 20s was too much for them. I did have 8" of mulch over them, although the foliage was above the mulch. A row cover might have helped.
Good idea with the clover. I am assuming the culprip is a rabbit because I saw one in the yard a few days ago, and he is just eating portions of rows. A groundhog would devour an entire row, and then go on to the next. I put a Havahart trap out - we'll see if that lures him. If not I may have to pull a Elmer Fudd!
Our cucumber sprouts blew away
go here for epsom salt on tomatos questionl
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/foru.../epsom-salt-to-tomato-plants#Post5451943
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/foru.../epsom-salt-to-tomato-plants#Post5451943
Speaking of gardening, what are people's thoughts on using vinegar to quickly increase soil acidity (in containers)? This seems to be a very polarizing subject since vinegar will kill plants (and weeds) if used in high concentration. I'm talking about watering tomato plants with 2 tablespoons (1 oz) of 5% vinegar diluted in 1 gallon of water.
My soil seems to be on the verge of being too alkaline (pH of 7), and the tap water I use for watering is even more alkaline. Do I leave the soil as is, or would you use something to lower the pH a bit?
Another option is to use a soil amendment such as Soil Acidifier, but those things can take months to lower the pH.
My soil seems to be on the verge of being too alkaline (pH of 7), and the tap water I use for watering is even more alkaline. Do I leave the soil as is, or would you use something to lower the pH a bit?
Another option is to use a soil amendment such as Soil Acidifier, but those things can take months to lower the pH.
Used coffee grinds are excellent for tomatoes, roses,etc.
Originally Posted by SatinSilver
Used coffee grinds are excellent for tomatoes, roses,etc.
Used coffee grounds are primarily rich in nitrogen, but don't have much phosphorus and potassium. So, if your soil has nitrogen deficiency, then yeah, use coffee grinds, but otherwise, it could be harmful for tomatoes. If you end up with too much nitrogen, this could contribute to BER.
Best fertilizer for tomatoes would be something with higher phosphorus content, for example 3-6-4.
Used coffee grinds are excellent for tomatoes, roses,etc.
Used coffee grounds are primarily rich in nitrogen, but don't have much phosphorus and potassium. So, if your soil has nitrogen deficiency, then yeah, use coffee grinds, but otherwise, it could be harmful for tomatoes. If you end up with too much nitrogen, this could contribute to BER.
Best fertilizer for tomatoes would be something with higher phosphorus content, for example 3-6-4.
Originally Posted by Quattro Pete
Speaking of gardening, what are people's thoughts on using vinegar to quickly increase soil acidity (in containers)? This seems to be a very polarizing subject since vinegar will kill plants (and weeds) if used in high concentration. I'm talking about watering tomato plants with 2 tablespoons (1 oz) of 5% vinegar diluted in 1 gallon of water.
My soil seems to be on the verge of being too alkaline (pH of 7), and the tap water I use for watering is even more alkaline. Do I leave the soil as is, or would you use something to lower the pH a bit?
Another option is to use a soil amendment such as Soil Acidifier, but those things can take months to lower the pH.
Quattro Pete,
Without knowing the buffering capacity of your water, it's anyone's guess what pH you are actually obtaining by adding vinegar. My other recollection is that trying to modify soil acidity with irrigation water is difficult because most soils have a pretty substantial buffering capacity. For many years our rain in Michigan had a pH lower than 5 and soils did not turn acid. 90% elemental sulfer is available at most farm co-op elevators for about $19 per 50 lb. bag. But, you are correct that it can take months for the sulfur to break down and acidify the soil. A soil test would help define how much sulfur is needed to drop the pH 0.5 unit. Proceed conservatively.
pH 7 is not horrible. 6.5 would be better, but most plants are fairly adaptable. Have fun!
Speaking of gardening, what are people's thoughts on using vinegar to quickly increase soil acidity (in containers)? This seems to be a very polarizing subject since vinegar will kill plants (and weeds) if used in high concentration. I'm talking about watering tomato plants with 2 tablespoons (1 oz) of 5% vinegar diluted in 1 gallon of water.
My soil seems to be on the verge of being too alkaline (pH of 7), and the tap water I use for watering is even more alkaline. Do I leave the soil as is, or would you use something to lower the pH a bit?
Another option is to use a soil amendment such as Soil Acidifier, but those things can take months to lower the pH.
Quattro Pete,
Without knowing the buffering capacity of your water, it's anyone's guess what pH you are actually obtaining by adding vinegar. My other recollection is that trying to modify soil acidity with irrigation water is difficult because most soils have a pretty substantial buffering capacity. For many years our rain in Michigan had a pH lower than 5 and soils did not turn acid. 90% elemental sulfer is available at most farm co-op elevators for about $19 per 50 lb. bag. But, you are correct that it can take months for the sulfur to break down and acidify the soil. A soil test would help define how much sulfur is needed to drop the pH 0.5 unit. Proceed conservatively.
pH 7 is not horrible. 6.5 would be better, but most plants are fairly adaptable. Have fun!
Originally Posted by doitmyself
Quattro Pete,
Without knowing the buffering capacity of your water, it's anyone's guess what pH you are actually obtaining by adding vinegar. My other recollection is that trying to modify soil acidity with irrigation water is difficult because most soils have a pretty substantial buffering capacity. For many years our rain in Michigan had a pH lower than 5 and soils did not turn acid. 90% elemental sulfer is available at most farm co-op elevators for about $19 per 50 lb. bag. But, you are correct that it can take months for the sulfur to break down and acidify the soil. A soil test would help define how much sulfur is needed to drop the pH 0.5 unit. Proceed conservatively.
pH 7 is not horrible. 6.5 would be better, but most plants are fairly adaptable. Have fun!
Thanks. Just to double check, I've ordered another pH meter - this one measures pH of water exiting from the container. Supposedly that's more accurate than the ground probe one that I used. If my soil truly has pH of 7, then I may not need to rapidly lower it, in which case I might just add a bit of Soil Acidifier and let it slowly do its thing.
Quattro Pete,
Without knowing the buffering capacity of your water, it's anyone's guess what pH you are actually obtaining by adding vinegar. My other recollection is that trying to modify soil acidity with irrigation water is difficult because most soils have a pretty substantial buffering capacity. For many years our rain in Michigan had a pH lower than 5 and soils did not turn acid. 90% elemental sulfer is available at most farm co-op elevators for about $19 per 50 lb. bag. But, you are correct that it can take months for the sulfur to break down and acidify the soil. A soil test would help define how much sulfur is needed to drop the pH 0.5 unit. Proceed conservatively.
pH 7 is not horrible. 6.5 would be better, but most plants are fairly adaptable. Have fun!
Thanks. Just to double check, I've ordered another pH meter - this one measures pH of water exiting from the container. Supposedly that's more accurate than the ground probe one that I used. If my soil truly has pH of 7, then I may not need to rapidly lower it, in which case I might just add a bit of Soil Acidifier and let it slowly do its thing.
Those soil probes are not accurate. Best to send a soil sample out to a lab for a proper pH before adjusting - your local cooperative extension can help. Around here it only cost $16 for a complete soil analysis with recommendations.
