How well does Redline Oil clean engine varnish?

Status
Not open for further replies.
P

Pajero

Joined
May 5, 2012
Messages
953
Location
Rio Rancho, NM
Hello, I've decided to do something about my engine Varnish, in my Gen 2 1994 Montero 3.5 DOHC. I'm currently using Kreen in my engine. I purchased a case redline impulsively, before I decided on Kreen. Depending on how the Kreen works, I plan on using Redline in the near future, after running 0W40 Mobile 1 rinse phase, so to speak. How well does Redline clean varnish deposits? I didn't purchase it for that reason, but i"ve read a lot of positive reviews concerning it. I got a super deal with a gift card for the Redline. Opinions please? I don't plan on running Redline exclusively due to financial reasons and logic. Respectfully, Pajero!
 
I forgot to add something. I ran Pennzoil Ultra a couple times, via the engine with UOA's. Ultra did nothing to clean, visually that is. But, I realize that varnish didn't get there overnight. Respectfully, Pajero!
 
Originally Posted By: Lolvoguy
I heard it isn't as good as PYB.
No you misunderstand -- the OP wants to REMOVE varnish, not ADD varnish. LOL
 
Is the varnish that bad? If not I would just leave it. It gives that Mitsu 3.5 character. I ran a Mitsu 1.8l 4 banger for almost 200k. The insides were a nice brassy looking varnish. I was told that Castrol GTX did that to all motors it ran in. That vehicle went to a family member who ran a bunch more miles on it. Never a problem at all.
 
Pic of the varnish? From my personal experience trying to remove varnish from a 98 Camry V6, I've found it to be useless. Tried all kinds of things. Nothing cleaned the metal. Flush out the sludge if any and drive it until the wheels fall off.
 
Redline kept the head at least of my Tracked Evo 9 This clean: [img:left][/img] Granted I used M1 for about 20k miles before this, but used Redline 5w30 for over 30k miles. Car was daily driven and tracked. I was very happy with it. This pic is when I upgraded my cams and I took a pic just thought it was clean enough to eat off of. Jeff
 
  • Like
Reactions: a5m
In my last car I wanted to flush before using Recline Oil so I called Dave at Recline and he told me to run one oci of Pennzoil Synthetic to clean it up prior to using if my engine was dirty.
 
Nice! I have the 6G74 engine. I ran 2 OCI of PUP and it didn't clean any varnish. In fact, the oil sheared and had high FE and AL. I read that Falcon had a good experience with Pennzoil Platinum. I will do what I can. If not, I guess it will have character. Until recently, this vehicle has been garaged kept and used as a secondary (play 4x4) vehicle. It went weeks without being used. This is where I made my mistake. Respectfully, Pajero!
 
Rock_Hudstone, Is the CJ4 still available. I thought it was superseded by CK4. Perhaps, I could try that during the summer. Respectfully, Pajero!
 
Artem, Not much to see from the oil filler, with the baffle. I bought a mechanics camera, but the pics are very dark. I will try again and post some pics. The top of the engine (plenums) have to be removed in order to get to the valve covers. Very expensive job, I can do basics, but not take the top of the engine apart. The top of the engine has to be removed to change the PCV valve. Crazy! I made a bet with a mechanic and won.(another topic). These 6G74 engines are difficult to work on, but will last a long time if a rigid maintenance schedule is followed. Which I am very OCD with this truck. She is twenty-three years old. I'm the original owner. Respectfully, Pajero!
 
Not sure what the benefit of this varnish removal is? It's like your teeth having a slight yellow tinge instead of bleached white. No performance difference at all.
 
I did run a few hundred miles with Neutra, via the previous OCI. Oil came out very dark brown. Looked like feces, to be honest. Never seen it like that. I've always done my own oil changes. Respectfully, Pajero!
 
Perhaps! But, it gives me the fuzzy feelings. I know varnish could lead to over heating. This engine has over heated once, when I'm over 12,000 ft while wheeling in Colorado, periodically and another time, crossing the Continental Divide with a trailer. Respectfully, Pajero!
 
Are the newer Red Line oils still a high ester base? I thought there was a post a while ago that the newer formulas might be a lower ester content. Maybe I am mistaken, if anyone knows, chime in and correct me. The traditional ester Red Line oils cleaned great!
 
Originally Posted By: KL31
Not sure what the benefit of this varnish removal is? It's like your teeth having a slight yellow tinge instead of bleached white.
Agreed. And in the case of teeth whitening, it actually WEAKENS your tooth enamel. But don't worry, those fancy bleaching commercials won't tell you that bit of info.
 
<span style="font-style: italic">Varnish is a basecoat for sludge.</span> It has been posted here on bitog that RedLine works with the metal itself through changing polarity. That gives RedLine the ability to remove varnish and attach itself to the metal to prevent future varnish. Due to this "attaching" effect RedLine is a very good option for cars that sit a long time, as the fluid film stays on metal parts a lot longer, as compared to hydrocracked/hydrojacked group III oils available on store shelves.
 
If you really want clean, run a quality HDEO like Rotella T6, the detergent pack in diesel oils is much more robust than PCMO's by a long shot. Otherwise, I recommend the Pennzoil synthetics for the cleanest PCMO experience, but, any of the top synthetics will clean better than the best conventionals. I wouldn't bother with Redline unless it was in a racing application. For street cars, boutique synthetics are a waste of money IMHO>
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top