How to mount a TV on the wall

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I have searched the internet on the instructions on how to mount a TV on the wall but they all cover the basic mounting - attach the mount on the wall and then put the TV on it.

But I want to know how to place all the necessary connections behind the TV. Connections such as the electric outlet,incoming coaxial cable, home theater audio. I also want to place a WII behind the TV.

Essentially, I am going to need to have a box in the wall where all these things will reside.

Has anyone done this before?
 
I'd suggest you go to Home Depot or Lowes and get a book on home wiring.
I've run new electrical outlets on dedicated circuits in my garage. Splicing outlets into existing circuits for a electrical drop to your TV could be easy... or very difficult.
It depends on a lot of things.

I've put in new switches and lights in my Pantry, and also new switches and lights in my Garage.

I've rewired outlets to turn on existing lights and a fan in one room (Same circuit different switches), and straightened out a 3-way switchs (that was installed in 1979 when the house was built) that popped the new circuit breakers.

You will probably be drawing diagrams and figuring out what materials you need and the process that you want to attack the issue.

I'd start with the Basics. Then go from there.
It is not something you can easily figure out without time and understanding diagrams.
 
Originally Posted By: CivicFan
I think I found my solution - it's called "Recessed Television Box". It's not quite large enough to hold a WII but I guess I will have a small shelf behind the TV to put it on.

Depending how much empty space you have on the back of the TV itself, you could also just velcro the Wii directly to the back of the TV. Just make sure you're not covering any TV vents and that you use heavy duty velcro (industrial strength) on which adhesive won't easily melt. But that's a last resort thing and kind of flimsy. If you can set up a dedicated small shelf for it, I would prefer that.
 
WHATEVER YOU DO, try to get good grade screws!!! I had a few that when screwing into the wall with just a ratchet,the screw head broke off!
 
It's a 50" plasma so velcro adhesive will probably melt from the heat. A floating shelf, or a floating cabinet, is probably the best option. Will need to drop by IKEA for a good looking one.
 
Originally Posted By: daves66nova
WHATEVER YOU DO, try to get good grade screws!!! I had a few that when screwing into the wall with just a ratchet,the screw head broke off!


Ouch. Will keep that in mind for some industrial strength screws.
 
Originally Posted By: daves66nova
WHATEVER YOU DO, try to get good grade screws!!! I had a few that when screwing into the wall with just a ratchet,the screw head broke off!

If you're going into 2x4s (as you should), you should pre-drill holes for the screws so that they go in more easily. This will help you avoid broken screws and stripped heads.
 
Agree. What's on the other side of the wall? If it's another finished wall, too bad, if it's unfinished, bolts and washers all the way through are a good option. By all means at least predrill the screw holes, (but not too big.).
 
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When you spend a lot of dough on home electronics it is wise to look at breaker panel mounted whole house surge protector. Many of then fit into an unused knockout like a doorbell transformer. Those so called "protected" power strips are almost useless. You need a good ground to shunt surge spikes, the breaker panel should have a thick ground conductor connected right to it.
 
FWIW, I posted this a while back in response to the same question:

______________________

Here are my comments. I did this about 4 years ago when we bought our first flat screen TV. I wanted to make it a totally clean installation with the TV mounted to the wall like a picture frame with no visible connections whatsoever. So I embarked on this by mounting a recessed electrical outlet (like is used for a clock) and also put in a little plastic box that had a plastic conduit down to the basement for the signal wires. This was fine and dandy and I was able to place our cable box in the basement in close proximity, feeding it the remote's IR signals with a "remote repeater". But then I need to deal with the DVD player, which obviously wasn't very convenient in the basement. For this I placed it in a nearby game closet which we have, and ran what at the time was a hideously expensive 25' HDMI cable between the DVD unit and the TV (through the basement and up the wall). Later we bought a Wii and I bought a component video (and audio) cable that was once again long enough to reach to the game closet. The Wii uses bluetooth for the controllers so you don't need an IR repeater for that. These days the prices for those long cables have dropped dramatically but for these lengths, I wouldn't buy the cheapest one on the market.

The only modification I am going to make is to move the cable box into the game closet. Our lovely box has a habit of locking up or otherwise needing to be reboot, so that's a pain to run to the basement just to do that. It would be more convenient if everything were in the game closet.

What do you do if you don't have a handy game closet? Well then you are going to have to run the cables to a media cabinet (maybe with your stereo stuff?) or some other relatively close and appropriate location. I have heard of people locating their hardware in a nearby bedroom closet or some other location but that's kind of weird to run to your bedroom each time a DVD needs to be inserted (or the neighborhood kids bring over their Wii games). But hey, you gotta do what you gotta do.

Remember one thing though. Now this TV is more or less fixed at that location till the end of the universe, or until such time as you decide to patch up the rather large holes you made in the wall at eye level. If your wife likes to rearrange the furniture sometimes then this puts a crimp in that idea.
 
I remember your post
smile.gif
At the time it seemed like a very complicated process but my wife has been insisting on it so she bought (suggested that I buy) another TV for this purpose and now I have to install it on the wall in another room.

I think the floating cabinet is going to be the best option if she agrees to house all these electronics.
 
This is what we did today. Kit came with proper lag bolts. Neither the shelf or the tv is going anywhere expect maybe if the wall falls after a earthquake etc. The tv kit we got from wal-mart online for $25 and seems very sturdy. Still need to do some wire management and do the rear speakers/sub. Also on the bottom I've got the stuff for another shelf a laptop. We had to put everything up high due to a 3 year old and his fat head. I'll be taking this pic down in a couple days.


IMG_2025.jpg
 
The time banned from BITOG was productive.

1. Installation of the cable box, TV mount and pulling of the necessary wires. Note the bracket for the floating glass shelf.
2012-01-29%252020.31.53.jpg


2. TV, XBox on the floating shelf. Everything is ready to go.
2012-02-09%252022.10.05.jpg
 
Originally Posted By: HerrStig
When you spend a lot of dough on home electronics it is wise to look at breaker panel mounted whole house surge protector. Many of then fit into an unused knockout like a doorbell transformer. Those so called "protected" power strips are almost useless. You need a good ground to shunt surge spikes, the breaker panel should have a thick ground conductor connected right to it.


Whole house service entrance suppressors are nice, and will keep the fancy reefer and washer safe. But the clamping voltages on them are still too high for higher end home electronics and computers with sensitive digital circuits. Many service entrance suppressors don't clamp under 600v. We've got the former for the whole house. But we still put all the better electronics on computer-grade local protection at 330v clamping.
 
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