Solar Panel Wiring.

[spasm3]

I bought a 100w renology solar panel kit. It will be used to keep the deep cycle battery in my camper charged. I plan to mount it to the roof of my 24x40 shed.

The instructions for the charge controller state , have a battery connected to the charge controller, before connection the solar panel.

I don't want to disconnect and remove the battery to charge it. So when I use the camper, I would have to disconnect the panel first

I also would like to charge my zero turn mower battery during the winter. How should I charge both?

Should I make an IP67 pigtail on the charge controller, so that I can just unplug the panel ( rather than unscrewing the terminals each time) before disconnecting the battery?

Thanks.

 

[thastinger]

I have a 25W panel that I keep one of our vehicles hooked up to because we hardly ever drive it. I just put some gator clips on the wires from the load terminals of the CC and connect or disconnect as needed. I've never unhooked the panel from the CC.
We do my FIL boat battery the same way but I installed a quick disconnect in line.
I would try to charge batteries in parallel, especially batteries of vastly different capacities (lawn mower & RV size). You'll kill both batteries in short order. Instead, just switch the panel over every couple of weeks from one battery to the other.

 

[eljefino]

Get yourself a double pole breaker and din rail box. Interrupt both the battery output and solar input simultaneously. Sounds like the solar panel is a permanent install; might as well wire up the box as well. Put nice long leads with crocodile clips on the output of this and make it your charging station.

 

[spasm3]

Get yourself a double pole breaker and din rail box. Interrupt both the battery output and solar input simultaneously. Sounds like the solar panel is a permanent install; might as well wire up the box as well. Put nice long leads with crocodile clips on the output of this and make it your charging station.

Great idea! I like it!

 

[brianl703]

Get yourself a double pole breaker and din rail box. Interrupt both the battery output and solar input simultaneously. Sounds like the solar panel is a permanent install; might as well wire up the box as well. Put nice long leads with crocodile clips on the output of this and make it your charging station.

Just use a $7 double pole light switch and the appropriate box, all available from Lowe's or Home Depot. You don't need overcurrent protection.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Eaton-Double-Pole-White-LED-Toggle-Light-Switch/1002944270?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-elc-_-ggl-_-LIA_ELC_205_Wiring-Devices-Cords-Fire-_-1002944270-_-local-_-0-_-0&gclid=Cj0KCQjwoeemBhCfARIsADR2QCvMHB75Nlv8_7bSNQyBqRx25JNz4lJWy1xue3Map_KWkxdKsVZNHP0aAky-EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

[wrcsixeight]

Disconnecting the charge controller from battery, in full sun, is potentially a magic smoke releasing event.

The more amperage the SCC is delivering into battery at the time of disconnection from battery, the more cumulatively damaging the event might be to the charge controller. Might happen instantly, might never happen, might happen after 2 dozen episodes.

Also the diodes in solar panel might not appreciate the event.

Disconnection in full sun is something I try and avoid, to the point of throwing aome cardboard or a towel over the panel when i need to work on the system in the middle of a sunny day.
Usually I wait until dark.

How damaging such an event might be, depends on the specific charge controller. Most have instructions to avoid such an event. Or simply an order of hooking up controller to battery, then panel to controller, without a reason as to why, or a warning as what might occur if not followed.

Ideally, the SCC is placed close to the Battery using as fat of wiring as can be stuffed into the terminals.
A push button to break circuit breaker of instructed rating can be used like a switch between panels and controller and controller and battery, but i can measure a few hundredths of a volt drop across mine, and it my IR temp gun indicates it is warmer than surrounding wires.

Its good enough, but i am losing a watt or two slightly heating circuit breakers and adjacent wiring.

Expect about 85 watts max from a 100 watt panel, March through September 2 hours either side of noon.

 

[spasm3]

Disconnecting the charge controller from battery, in full sun, is potentially a magic smoke releasing event.

The more amperage the SCC is delivering into battery at the time of disconnection from battery, the more cumulatively damaging the event might be to the charge controller. Might happen instantly, might never happen, might happen after 2 dozen episodes.

Also the diodes in solar panel might not appreciate the event.

Disconnection in full sun is something I try and avoid, to the point of throwing aome cardboard or a towel over the panel when i need to work on the system in the middle of a sunny day.
Usually I wait until dark.

How damaging such an event might be, depends on the specific charge controller. Most have instructions to avoid such an event. Or simply an order of hooking up controller to battery, then panel to controller, without a reason as to why, or a warning as what might occur if not followed.

Ideally, the SCC is placed close to the Battery using as fat of wiring as can be stuffed into the terminals.
A push button to break circuit breaker of instructed rating can be used like a switch between panels and controller and controller and battery, but i can measure a few hundredths of a volt drop across mine, and it my IR temp gun indicates it is warmer than surrounding wires.

Its good enough, but i am losing a watt or two slightly heating circuit breakers and adjacent wiring.

Expect about 85 watts max from a 100 watt panel, March through September 2 hours either side of noon.

Thanks! I went a bit oversize on the solar panel to account for cloudy days. I think the panel should be more than enough to keep a group 24 battery charged.

I think i will use the circuit breaker that @eljefino posted, so i can disconnect the panel, with the battery still connected to the controller.

I plan to use the furrion connector to plug in to the solar point on the trailer. I measure 12v there now, hot on the bottom pin.