How to go about doing a rotation myself Acura tl

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Originally Posted By: DuckRyder
Is it really your position that one cannot rotate tires? Really?

No, it's not my position. I change and rotate tires whenever I want to, but then, I don't have a place like Discount Tire to look over me and the general public.

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Originally Posted By: martinq
Originally Posted By: DuckRyder
Is it really your position that one cannot rotate tires? Really?

No, it's not my position. I change and rotate tires whenever I want to, but then, I don't have a place like Discount Tire to look over me and the general public.

grin.gif



Whew, put a smiley in there or something next time I had already decided you were daft and put you on ignore... (but I couldn't resist the answer to that)
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Originally Posted By: DuckRyder
Whew, put a smiley in there or something next time I had already decided you were daft and put you on ignore... (but I couldn't resist the answer to that)
grin.gif


Hehee, sorry about that. I had to play it out somehow.
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But seriously .... the children.
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Thanks to everyone for the thoughtful answers. They are Michelin Pilot MXM4s, and I just assumed they were directional because the last Michelin Pilots I bought which were for my old car were directional. I am going to go with the cross rotation. The real issue I had was that the car basically has six jacking points, center front, center rear, and the four under the rocker panels near each wheel. The issue I had was if I jacked up the rocker panel jacking point, how would I then put the car on a jack stand? I don't think the jacking point area is large enough for both a jack head and a jack stand head. If I raised the car using the center rear or center front, would it be safe to do so if the car is already resting on two jack stands? I am just trying to avoid damage to the car.
 
If I was doing it I would:
- crack loose the front wheel nuts (1/4 turn)
- jack the front and set it on axle-stands
- remove the front wheels
- crack loose the rear wheel nuts (1/4 turn, parking brake on)
- jack the rear
- remove rear wheels
- rotate and assemble in reverse order
- think of the children
 
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Originally Posted By: martinq
We know from past experience that you cannot rotate tires front-to-back, Discount-Tire (and others) tell us this. Best just to get a new set at this point (on the rear) and put the rears on the front.

For reference:
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2936212


I had directional tires on my BMW. I rotated front the back on same side and got 63,000 mile out of them. However you need to do thion a regular basis such as every 7,500 miles.
 
Perhaps a newer AWD does, but neither my Civic or RL have a good lift point for jacking both rear at the same time and getting a car up on 4 stands can be sketchy in the best of situations.

I prefer to jack (with a floor jack) on suspension mounting points vs pinch-welds in most cases.

What equipment do you have? 2 floor jacks? More than one OEM jack? I don't suppose you have another spare that will fit it?

I would probably go the one at a time route using the spare in this case. The spare should be roughly the same diameter particularly with AWD.
 
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Most FWD or even your AWD vehicle can probably be safely jacked up on one side.

Figure the weigh distribution is about 60/40 biased to the front. If you place the jack just behind the mirror, I suspect you'll end up with that entire side of the car off the ground.

For my cars with directional tires, I do just that. I break all the lug nuts free while the car is on the ground, pick my estimated center of gravity point, grab my hockey puck I use to keep from scratching the bottom of the vehicle and raise the vehicle with the 3ton trolley jack.

I pull the tire assemblies, inspect, and then rotate them to their new location, attaching the lug nuts until they bottom out on the wheel, not yet to torque.

I lower the car, and repeat for the other side. Then, a lap around the car with a torque wrench and in the case of alloy wheels, a lap around the car the next day after it's been driven 50+ miles.

For non-unidirectional tires, I raise the front, put it on jack stands, pull the front wheels, and do each rear corner one at a time.

Rears go straight ahead and fronts get swapped to the opposite corner.

Same drill with tightening and torque wrench when all done.

I could probably optimize this a bit by just using one jack stand, say on the passenger front, and then using the jack on the drivers side at the CG point, raise that side, mounting the just pulled passenger front on the drivers rear, moving up the drivers rear and taking the drivers front to the passenger rear, ready for the next step.

Not sure it's really worth that level of optimization, but I may try it to see if I can take out one jack stand and jacking operation.

Originally Posted By: PeterGreen
I need to rotate the tires on my car, an Acura TL with Sh-Awd, which has about 11000 on it. All of the rims are in their original factory positions.

The question is how do I go about doing this myself. The factory Michelins are directional, I believe, and I want to go front to rear and vice versa. If I jack up the rear of the car in the center, I can put jack stands under the two rear jacking points, under the rear doors, but then what? Do I jack up the front? Do I need four wheel stands? Is it safe to jack the front when the car is sitting on two jack stands?

An alternate method would be to use the factory spare, which is a donut, take off one tire at a time. Question is if the donut's diameter is considerably smaller than the factory rims, which are 18 inchers with 45 profile tires, can I safely jack up the car when there is a donut on the other end, or will the car be too low to jack high enough to get the standard rim off?

I realize I could just pay a tire place to do this for $30 but then I have to worry that they will overtorque the lug nuts.

Any suggestions for a plan of action?
 
Come to think of it, if you have donut spare, it is not a bad idea to use that during the temporary swap. That way at least you will be sure that it has air and has the proper number of mounting holes! What if wrong dount was put in the trunk by factory? You will then find it out at the worst possible time.
 
Originally Posted By: javacontour
Most FWD or even your AWD vehicle can probably be safely jacked up on one side.

Figure the weigh distribution is about 60/40 biased to the front. If you place the jack just behind the mirror, I suspect you'll end up with that entire side of the car off the ground.

Correct but don't just pick any point to jack from. The owners manual WILL show you the proper jacking locations.
 
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True, but the points the OM suggests are for the jack they include. There is likely a "frame rail" in the uni-body structure that will support the weight of the car.

Probably need the service manual to find those locations as I doubt the repair shop is using the same jacking points as suggested for a road-side tire change.



Originally Posted By: martinq
Originally Posted By: javacontour
Most FWD or even your AWD vehicle can probably be safely jacked up on one side.

Figure the weigh distribution is about 60/40 biased to the front. If you place the jack just behind the mirror, I suspect you'll end up with that entire side of the car off the ground.

Correct but don't just pick any point to jack from. The owners manual WILL show you the proper jacking locations.
 
Originally Posted By: Vikas
By the way, anybody knows if Acura TPMS system is smart enough to know when the tires are rotated?


I rotated mine front to back and it seemed to be fine. I don't recall any issues with the wrong tire pressure increasing when I topped off the tires.
 
Originally Posted By: javacontour
True, but the points the OM suggests are for the jack they include. There is likely a "frame rail" in the uni-body structure that will support the weight of the car. Probably need the service manual to find those locations as I doubt the repair shop is using the same jacking points as suggested for a road-side tire change.

From past experience those points are the same. The points listed in the OM are not just for the included jack. Every application is different but I've never seen one that was an exception to this.
 
Thanks to everyone for their informative posts. Took advantage of this lovely Saturday afternoon to do the job myself. I cross rotated, DF to PR, PF to DR, and vice versa and used the factory spare as a holder. Tried to put the car up on four jack stands, but the three ton floor jack I had couldn't quite lift it high enough, and I didn't really have any dunnage I could trust. Put the tiniest smear of anti seize on each of the lugs, and used my Craftsmen torque wrench to torque them each to 90 ft-lbs. Total time 1 hour 45 minutes. I could have paid a guy in a tire store, but I wanted to know that the nuts were torqued to the right spec. Incidentally, since my last car was over ten years old, those 18 inch rims with 245/45 tires are heavy! Don't know how a woman or an elderly person could possibly do a roadside tire change.
 
Without a lift cross rotate tires is very time consuming, specially if you have only 2 jack stands.

With a lift AT/DT can do it for free in less than 15 minutes without balance, with another person do the balance the total time is less than 20-25 minutes.
 
Tell me about it...I'm a shadetree mechanic, and have neither shade, tree, or large flat driveway.

Cross rotation starts with take the spare out, jack up right rear, and start there...
 
We had a guy working for us who used to do diagonal rotations with 2 floor jacks (trolley jacks). The car would rock quite a bit, but he'd walk or run around the car holding it with one hand. He didn't have any problems until he did it on a MkIII Zephyr - they have a tubular front crossmember. It slid off the jack...but of course the heavy side had wheels on it. He wasn't allowed to do that anymore.
 
I hope everyone realizes you can do a complete rotation with a jack and a single jack stand:

1) Jack LF and remove assembly. Support with jack stand.

2) Jack RR, and replace RR assembly with the loose one (from the LF)

3) Do the others in turn: RF, LR, then the last one goes back on the LF where you started.

I use an impact gun, but for those without this marvelous tool, loosen all the lug nuts before you start - Just a turn, so they come off without the need to apply much torque.
 
The problem is that the jacking point is not big enough for both a jack and a jack stand,and I could not use the front and rear jacking points--hence the need to use the donut.
 
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