How to get to a million.

Power Steering fluid? With each engine oil change I take a turkey baster and use it to remove fluid from the power steering reservoir and then refill the reservoir with fresh proper spec fluid.
 
I don't think anyone wants to do the math on the fuel costs of one of these.
Too discouraging.
Just to say "high" is probably enough.
Rough math is daunting.

600,000 miles at 15 MPG is 40,000 gallons.

At current prices for regular around the US - it’s a bit over $120,000.

But it’ll be amortized over 30 years.

So, no worries.
 
Rough math is daunting.

600,000 miles at 15 MPG is 40,000 gallons.

At current prices for regular around the US - it’s a bit over $120,000.

But it’ll be amortized over 30 years.

So, no worries.
Correct. It’s just the BUTT time that is going to be painful. Not the most comfortable or quiet vehicle. I wish him luck.
 
My dad rode in it a few times.

1000001504.webp
 
Power Steering fluid? With each engine oil change I take a turkey baster and use it to remove fluid from the power steering reservoir and then refill the reservoir with fresh proper spec fluid.
What temp is it running that it oxidizes this quickly?
 
Probably the biggest obstacle is insuring it to keep it on the road in an expensive accident, which I guess they all are these days!
I presume replacement value is actually going up year by year? or are all parts still available for this?
What happens if you get in a minor accident than bends the frame? Is your insurance going to cover the high cost of making it right again, or just cut you $5k for your "old high mileage truck"?
 
Your coolant hoses should last longer by replacing those worm gear clamps with the proper spring clamps. The hoses look pretty fresh. I’d ensure it had the proper coolant.

Make sure the pumpkins can breath. Extended line kits are usually cheap.
 
Rough math is daunting.

600,000 miles at 15 MPG is 40,000 gallons.

At current prices for regular around the US - it’s a bit over $120,000.

But it’ll be amortized over 30 years.

So, no worries.
This should be fairly accurate, but only applies if he is driving the car solely to reach the million mile goal. If he is driving the car as he would for normal use, then wouldn't it be more accurate to calculate the difference between 15 MPG and the average fuel economy of whatever he would normally be driving. That difference would be the additional expense of driving the Land Cruiser to a million miles.
 
What temp is it running that it oxidizes this quickly?
Since I’m only removing the oil in the power steering reservoir and not doing a complete fluid change we’re talking about only a few ounces exchanged every 5,000 miles or so. This results in the fluid never being completely fresh or completely dirty.

I used to pay shops to change power steering fluid every 100,000 miles. With the turkey baster method I probably exchange a quart every 20,000 miles. I got the idea from someone else and adopted it.
 
Honestly here’s my take.

Oil - every 6k or 7k kilometers using a 0w40 oil MB/BMW/Porsche approval

Oil filter: A good quality one, say, Carquest premium, or micro guard

Transmission fluid: every 40k kilometers or 4 years - using Redline, Amsoil ot HPL

Diffs: see above for Trans (same interval)

Transfer case: see above for trans (same interval)

Brake fluid: every two year or three, using Redline, ATS or Motul

Coolant: Drain and refill every 4 years regardless of mileage. Use genuine Toyota coolant or Valvoline Zerex

For alternators use OEM Toyota, batteries, Kirkland (Costco) or OEM.

Spark plugs: Denso Iridium - every 80 - 90 kilometers
 
Honestly here’s my take.

Oil - every 6k or 7k kilometers using a 0w40 oil MB/BMW/Porsche approval

Oil filter: A good quality one, say, Carquest premium, or micro guard

Transmission fluid: every 40k kilometers or 4 years - using Redline, Amsoil ot HPL

Diffs: see above for Trans (same interval)

Transfer case: see above for trans (same interval)

Brake fluid: every two year or three, using Redline, ATS or Motul

Coolant: Drain and refill every 4 years regardless of mileage. Use genuine Toyota coolant or Valvoline Zerex

For alternators use OEM Toyota, batteries, Kirkland (Costco) or OEM.

Spark plugs: Denso Iridium - every 80 - 90 kilometers

I realize that we're all a bit OCD when it comes to maintenance. But replacing Spark Plugs every 80-90 kilometers, is ridiculous.
 
I realize that we're all a bit OCD when it comes to maintenance. But replacing Spark Plugs every 80-90 kilometers, is ridiculous.
If you have the money for it, it’s not an issue. I myself have a Toyota and it’s pushing close to 330k km. I attribute it to their engineering, but also my preventative maintenance schedule.

It may sound “extreme” but with the driving conditions we go through (stop and go, weather, idling etc) it’s not all that exaggerated.

I simply gave my two cents, if it’s not needed it can be placed in the donation jar!
 
You've put 5000 miles on in 9 months. Only 1,063 months to go!

Great classic BTW.
Witty, but a salient point.

The only vehicles that make it to 1M miles have very particular duty cycles. They are driven all the time, at modest sustained load and rarely have temperature cycles.

It's a beautiful LC. I think your goal should be to let your daughter sell it to some up and coming BITOGer when you get to old for it.
 
If you have the money for it, it’s not an issue. I myself have a Toyota and it’s pushing close to 330k km. I attribute it to their engineering, but also my preventative maintenance schedule.

It may sound “extreme” but with the driving conditions we go through (stop and go, weather, idling etc) it’s not all that exaggerated.

I simply gave my two cents, if it’s not needed it can be placed in the donation jar!
100% of cross threaded spark plugs occur during the process of installing them.


Don't over-maintain something, it's as risky (or riskier) than neglect in some cases.
 
100% of cross threaded spark plugs occur during the process of installing them.
Logically speaking, there's no other way for them to become cross threaded. . . Might as well sit there and never undertake anything due to a fear or potential issue. I understand where you are coming from, but what's the alternative? Not putting spark plugs back in? Things happen whether you are careful or not. It's like saying 100% of injuries occur during the process of doing something.
Don't over-maintain something, it's as risky (or riskier) than neglect in some cases.
Fate. Sometimes you maintain perfectly and things still go wrong. I prefer to execute with due diligence and competence. If things still go south after I put effort and focus into them, then so be it and it's a lesson to learn. What's that quote? "You can do everything right and still lose, that's not a weakness, that's life".
 
Back
Top Bottom