How to break stuck rotors free

Originally Posted by Chris142
He is lucky that he did not break that cast iron ear off his spindle.
My first thought. Like they say, if a hammer doesn't get it free, you need a bigger hammer.
 
I'll stick with my BFH. Although really if you leave a light film of antiseize on the hub face and the centering ring/area I haven't had issues down the road.
 
I like that, I can see using that technique on multiple applications in the future. Thanks for sharing. I also use anti seize on all those types of parts when servicing to make it easy to remove for future service, works great. I don't have winter road issues, but saltwater does a number at boat ramps. I bought a Connecticut vehicle many years ago and had some rusted brakes and rotors dealt with by a dealer. Kept chasing what I thought was a warped rotor issue after that. Turned out to be runout in the hub. I am guessing that could be the result of a combination of heat and big hammers to get those rotors off. [Linked Image]
 
couple taps with a dead blow hammer, never had a problem doing that. Haven't had to hammer off a rotor in at least 10 years. They pull right off in South Texas.
 
Why didn't he tap the rotor with the hammer from the back? That works for me. Also usually don't have room in the back to use an impact like that. Maybe using a right angle impact might fit. But still, tap with BFH from the back works.
 
In the salt use areas they stick real tight. Had a 2003 Silverado that no amount of heat or beating would knock them loose. Took a sawzall and cut down between two cooling fins as far as I could then drove a punch in between the fins where I cut. That broke the rotor to the center and released its grip. I ended up just pad slapping the rears because I ran out of time and cutting them was harder because of the backing plate. They lasted till the rotors exploded and it took cutting and a 10 pound maul and going ape on it for them to come loose. Gm trucks of that vintage did not like giving up the rotors or hubs.
 
In the time it would take to go to the hardware store to get the right bolt, nut, and washer (the first time), most people could beat both rotors off. I like how he baby tapped the rotor with the hammer showing just how stuck it was. I guess if that's how he hits them to get them off, uhhh, yeah, in his case, he does need a different solution.
 
Originally Posted by whatnext
Why didn't he tap the rotor with the hammer from the back? That works for me. Also usually don't have room in the back to use an impact like that. Maybe using a right angle impact might fit. But still, tap with BFH from the back works.
Exactly. He even said he put the lug nuts on to protect the wheel bolts from being hit with a hammer. You smack the rotor from the BACK side. Scott
 
All the extra time it took him to remove the stuck brake disc negates any time he 'saved' by throwing it together in a rush last time. It only takes a few seconds to use antiseize and it saves you a headache next time
 
I have only had ONE rotor in my lifetime that wouldn't come off. I ended up letting the jack down and letting the rotor take the weight of the car, that knocked it loose. The method in the video is much better. Thanks for posting it.
 
Originally Posted by Chris142
He is lucky that he did not break that cast iron ear off his spindle.
+1 that would have turned a little problem into a huge problem. The Subaru has two threaded holes in the rotor. You put two bolts in them, tighten and then give it a whack and off it pops. Why don't all vehicles have that setup?
 
I had to do this with my Mazda3 last spring on the driver's side rotor. Passenger side came off. Driver's side, nope. Not all cars have enough room for the DIY'er to get to the backside with a BFH, so this is the next best way if you don't have an air hammer you can hit it with. You can believe I cleaned up all the mounting surfaces and used plenty of anti-seize.
 
It is odd that the auto makers have improved corrosion protection on cars only to overlook rotor and hubs as well as suspension castings.
 
Originally Posted by Donald
Originally Posted by Chris142
He is lucky that he did not break that cast iron ear off his spindle.
+1 that would have turned a little problem into a huge problem. The Subaru has two threaded holes in the rotor. You put two bolts in them, tighten and then give it a whack and off it pops. Why don't all vehicles have that setup?
Sometimrs said holes are pretty small dia and of course the threaded section is not very long (i.e. the rotor section-size is thin there) so they may strip easily. Great, though, to try moderately with them. Me, I've used the bolt and nut trick with some flat-bar against the rotor friction surface to protect it. Also, have not used an impact driver... only done it manually. Also, regarding use of the bolts... stone the place they bear against flat lest you "knurl" the surface and when rotor is again reinstalled (if not indexed to same position on the hub) - it'd have rotor runout due to the knurling. (At least I THINK this'd happen).
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

JHZR2
SAE sockets - what to get?
2 3
Replies
47
Views
2K
JHZR2
T
Infuriating Vibrations While Driving
Replies
19
Views
4K
TnTA2
Number_35
2008 Hyundai Sonata - rear shocks rusted to mounting studs
Replies
9
Views
3K
Number_35
Falcon_LS
Wrenching in The Desert; DOT 5.1 Edition
Replies
2
Views
2K
Jethro_Bob
D
Hyundai/Kia ATF Volume Tolerance?
Replies
13
Views
2K
nicholas
Top