Is there a link for that you could post?Blackstone has published a few old shelf UOAs and a recent podcast episode showcased another. Good enough for you? Google it.
Is there a link for that you could post?Blackstone has published a few old shelf UOAs and a recent podcast episode showcased another. Good enough for you? Google it.
It won't be catastrophic like putting vegetable oil. It just has significant more wear. 1000 miles, like 10k miles.I ran PYB with Z-7 technology in my 97’ Bonneville without an issue for like 3 years. It was in cardboard cans.
I don't know about the engine, but my '77 Honda Accord 5-speed specified engine oil for the transmission and Arco Graphite made the shifts buttery smooth. Sometime in the 60's I added a 4oz. bottle of a graphite additive to a warmed up 327 small block while it was idling. In 10-15 minutes the idle speed came up 300 rpm! Don't remember where I got the stuff and could not find it again. Then life got really busy and I forgot about it.......Is graphite good for engine
25 miles lol? Dump some vegetable (soy) oil in. Do you really think ANY engine will care, let alone the BMW? Fuel dilution is certainly worse for an engine than a few cups of Wallgreens motor oilThis:
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Is this:
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So I'm due for an oil change and I need to find the time to drive to Milford, CT (25 miles drive) to pick up my Motul from FCP Euro. But my oil is at the minimum. Message on i-drive (2010 BMW 535xi): Oil level at minimum, add one liter of oil. I have the oil level as my main screen, monitoring it all the time, as - well, we are getting to know each other. It's going to be three years soon since I got it, but have only really driven it for the last year or so.
So, this is one of them bummers. I have to add oil, I do have plenty of it, but I'm about to do an oil change in the following week or two. Do I take the risk to drive there (it will be at least another 50+ miles as I need to go to work in the opposite direction first), do I get to my local Walmart for my top-off special Euro M1 ? But ain't it a bummer to put a good quart of fresh into something that will be flushed in 2-300 miles ?
Memories, memories to the rescue
I just remembered (well, never forgot, just was hesitant) that I have a nice vintage of 2015 Amsoil. A good vintage. Sat in a dark, cool place, in its dark shipping box. Waiting to get into a car that I since returned, then into another one that I since feed on VRP.
I name thee, top-off special.
Btw, while pouring it it was almost transparent. Looks darker in the bottle. Shook well and long before pouring. No residue that I could see. In it goes.
This is where it went (pic is from before I poured it in). For 217000 miles, the last 7000 - mine, the last 50-ish thousand before - driven by a nice muggle, but still a muggle, situation unknown before that - I'd say, it is what it is. I'm sure there's better, and there's worse:
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I dub Thee, Sir Top-Off !!!
Five more waiting.
I'd run it without hesitation. Ran mid 90s Pennzoil oil in my old c1500 350 a few years ago that was on a shelf in my moms garage. Shook it up, poured clear/amber in color and ran fine in it.I have a lot of older oils that Im just now getting around to using, most are SM but some are SL. They are stored in a insulated & sometimes heated garage so never freezing, I shake them every year or so. Just curious how old is considered too old to use, would be for a mid 2000s toyota or older 1970's GM V8 engines.
I can list all the different brands & weights but most are full synthetic like Mobil1 SL, or valvoline SM, also have a few jugs of the old rotellaT SL & Delo 400 SM conventional diesel oils. Some are at or close to 20 years old others are 10-15. Are these still safe to use?