How often do you replace shocks?

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I have the original on my 93 Camry wagon, and they are still good...they really are still good and I don't think new ones would improve the ride and handling much at all.

I just replaced all four struts on my '96 Lexus LS400 last fall at 118,000 miles and they really did need to be changed. Used OEM and also did the spring insulators and the top strut bearings.

I think it varies as to when the shocks need to be replaced....I would NOT change at a certain mileage or age interval like most of us do for other maintenance (TB, spark plugs for example) and fluid changes.

Just my 2 cents.
 
Don't laugh - I still have the OEM (BOGE's) on the 1996 Volvo with 108K miles. I haven't replaced them because well..er..they still pass the ape on bumper test and the handling is till fine.
 
All depends...

OEM Struts/Shocks on my '93 Ciera were completely shot at 80k, so I put a set of Monroe Sensatracs on it. Drove it about 75k, and replaced them with a new set of Sensatracs before giving the car to my grandmother. Noticed no difference.

Had a Festiva with 225k on the OEM struts. Replaced them with a new set of KYBs, as well as replacing strut mounts and bushings. Noticed no difference. I was shocked.

I've seen them shot at 30k, and seen them just fine at 225k...
 
I just replaced the rear Struts today on My 2001 Olds alero vehicle has 40,000 miles on it & replaced the originals with Gabriel Ultras. One strut was completely shot!!! Piece of junk GM parts! Struts did not cosy me too much as My price was $45.00 each with a limited lifetime warranty.
 
1. If you drive fast, shocks make a huge difference in stability and control. The difference in an emergency lane change at 85 mph between new shocks and 50,000 mile shocks has to be experienced to be believed. Any "average" drivers who think they will never need to avoid an obstacle in their lane?
2. Every time I get in an American car, I think it needs new shocks. My 2007 Mustang has 3500 miles on it, and I will order new shocks this summer.
3. Every time I drove a customer's car who wondered if they needed new shocks, they always did. And I hate supension work andmade nothing (15%) on shocks.
4. Who thinks Bilstien is "quality"? They have a great design, but their quality control is spotty at best, I have had a 50% failure rate with Bilstien. When I worked with VW's, they had a 100% failure rate on struts. The good thing about Bilstiens is that they fail really fast.The bad thing is that they ALWAYS claimed that the failure was due to an "installation error". Funny, we managed to install everybody else's shocks. Also, the Bilstien lifetime warranty is only for the lifetime of the shock that failed! Seriously, they do everything possible to avoid replacing a shock under warranty.
5. KYB is a pretty reasonable brand. They work well, last as long as anything else, and the valving seems to always be very close to OEM.
 
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4. Who thinks Bilstien is "quality"? They have a great design, but their quality control is spotty at best, I have had a 50% failure rate with Bilstien.




Maybe "Bilstien" shocks are a cheap knockoff.
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The reputable company is "Bilstein." I wouldn't buy their shocks, because I have an issue with ThyssenKrupp who owns Bilstein. They are notorious price-fixers and were just fined half a billion Euros.
 
Honestly, I believe that shocks (front at least) should be replaced at around the same time as tyres.

Yep, they can last longer and not leak, or pass a rudimentary jump test, but they still aren't "all there".

I once destroyed a set of Goodyear NCT tyres in 5000 miles, and believe me, the shocks were very sub par at the end of it.

My SUVs get around 80,000km from a set of tyres, and new shocks really sparkle up the handling.

In my state, the annual rego check cannot fail shocks unless there is visible leakage. Some of the second hand cars I've bought have had major wallowy handling with "legal" shocks
 
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thanks....anyone know if i can clearcoat them to protect the shock body from rust?




Excellent idea!




just wondering if polyurethane will cause the paint (and the self-applied "Rancho RSX" sticker) to peel.




Don't know about that. But I've been using LPS#3, a rust inhibitor, on the shocks to keep them from rusting more. In fact I use the LPS#3 on the underside of my truck to minimize the rust. It works and is easy to use. I do it every year. If you need more info on the LPS#3 just PM me, as I don't always have the time to visit BOB.

Whimsey
 
Honestly, I was being charitable to Bilstein with that 50% failure rate. Bilstein shocks are a great design, but I still say the quality is not there. Maybe things have improved recently, but I have heard it all before from Bilstein.

For the daily commute car I recommend KYB shocks. For high performance or enthusiast shocks I recommend Carrera or AVO. I think these recommendations show my distinct sporty car/road racer bias. I know next to nothing about truck and off road suspensions. Koni is a good brand if your car does NOT use struts. For some reason, Koni struts only last 15,000 - 40,000 miles, in which case KYB is a much better buy if you want stock valving.I hear Tokico is pretty good these days. I used them in the 80's when they were awful, maybe I'll get back into them.
If you get into really high performance shocks with aluminum bodies, then you are going to have to rebuild the shocks about every 15,000-30,000 miles. None of the really fancy race car shocks are durable for street use, I think because we put too many miles on them with a lot of movement over a small range, the aluminum bodies may be too soft for that, or it could be something else. But let me tell you, these types of shocks are simply MAGIC for handling. If you are the type who spends money and likes to tinker with cars then getting double adjustable race shocks is probably the single best thing you can do to a street car, its just not wildly practical.
 
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If you get into really high performance shocks with aluminum bodies, then you are going to have to rebuild the shocks about every 15,000-30,000 miles. None of the really fancy race car shocks are durable for street use, I think because we put too many miles on them with a lot of movement over a small range, the aluminum bodies may be too soft for that, or it could be something else. But let me tell you, these types of shocks are simply MAGIC for handling. If you are the type who spends money and likes to tinker with cars then getting double adjustable race shocks is probably the single best thing you can do to a street car, its just not wildly practical.




Yes. Tell me about it! If anyone wants to experience a FATAL dose of "sticker shock" shocks, go price ANY of the Moton, Penske (yes, Roger's company), Reiger, or Ohlins remote reservoir, multi-adjustable, alloy bodied dampers!!
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For what they're charging, those things should outlast 3 cars' lives, but of course being a pure racing component, they will not.

BTW; I've had excellent results from my Koni double adjustables (> 80K miles). Funny thing is, just like you've stated, it is NOT a "strut" car, but an unequal A arm/"coilover" setup.
 
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I don't deny that the difference is drastic. However, does the average driver NEED the improve ride quality, braking, traction, etc? Their old shocks are probably "good enough" in most cases. That's why I added a disclaimer, if there are any safety issues (odd traction issues, braking issues, etc), then by all means replace them.




It's not a $4000 job that barely makes a difference, it's a max $800 job (if you have a shop do it) that can make the difference between an enjoyable ride, suspension longevity or an accident.

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I think 50,000 is like the 3,000 mile oil change, yes it does make money for the company, but around 3,000 the oil has started to lose it's edge and isnt 100% like new, it will still do the job just fine, but from that point on it isnt going to get any better.

And since I know someone is going to heckle me, lets say it's AAP brand dino
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I'd say if you can do the work yourself, replace every 75k and your car will handle like new for most of it's life. The struts themselves are cheap, you can get all 4 for under $300 (thats for a good brand like KYB), but a shop will charge you upwards of $400 for labor.

I had a dealer quote me $1500 to replace all 4

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But then again, it was a dealer, the same dealer that quoted me $85 to replace my gear oil, which I did in 20 minutes and $30, using the good stuff not their bulk.

If you have a shop do the work, replace with the best you can afford, and replace when you can definetly feel a difference in ride quality.
 
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I just an ad in C&D that said change your shocks every 50k to maintain the ride quality...


Yeah, just a scheme to sell more shocks. In some cars, shocks will last up to 200,000 miles. You replace them when they fail the bounce test.
 
at my work we have to suggest shocks at 50k miles. i started asking the training people what about cars with Bilstein or Koni from the factory and they just said that "all OEM shocks and struts will fail at 50k miles". fortunately i am more intelligent and have the ability to think on my own so i call #@$%! on them all the time.
 
Since I own a tire/general automotive repair facility, I switch things like tires and shocks on my vehicles pretty often, so I can see what the differences are... having said that, I don't have recent personal experiences with Bilstein, but I do have lots of personal experience with KYBs, Gabriels and Monroes. All of my personal experience is with our trucks - a '95 Exploder, an '83 F250 4x4 and a '76 C20.

From a business point-of-view, I love KYBs because KYB will adjust defective shocks with no questions asked and no need for an original invoice. This makes me and my customers happier. Monroe claims to have a "lifetime" warranty (like KYB), but they want documentation and generally make it a pain to make an adjustment on shot shocks. Gabriel is worse yet, and is so bad in this regard that it is now difficult to even find them in our town.

From a ride and handling point-of-view, I have found that each brand has its own strengths. For example, on vehicles like Exploders that tend to snap your head back and forth when entering a driveway, KYBs Gas-A-Justs exacerbate this problem, while Monroe Sensatracs minimize it; Monroe Reflexes fall in between the two in this regard, but are closer to the Sensatracs.

On vehicles with soft suspensions that tend to wallow in corners, the Reflexes are superb - maintaining the soft ride, but controlling the wallowing and body roll. They really have to be experienced to be believed. Sensatracs don't control the rolling and wallowing as much, but they are more effective than "stock" shocks. The Gas-A-Justs will definitely stiffen up the ride and improve the handling, but some people don't want to make the trade-off.

On stiffly sprung vehicles, like my F250 (which has leaf springs all the way around
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), the Gas-A-Justs tend to allow softer response to bumps than Monroe Gas Magnums, but they damp large ride motions more effectively. For example, near my home is a very curvy road which has lots of potholes and bumps in all the wrong places in the corners, and over this road the Gas Magnums pound severely, yet they allow excessive uncontrolled body motion. In contrast, Gas-A-Justs are much more supple in absorbing the pavement imperfections, but they very effectively damp body motions and make cornering more predictable and less hair-raising at speed.

As far as what I see in shock/strut failures in my business, I have seen EVERY brand fail, including the "exotic" euro-brands. The lowest failure rates (in my experience, again) are KYB and Tokico. Some of the Hondas and Toyotas that come with them on an OEM basis go extraordinary distances with little loss in damping ability or leaking.

Having said that, I tailor the shocks/struts I recommend to the driver and vehicle. It is not always most important to a customer that their shocks/struts last the longest as it is that they provide the ride and handling characteristics they desire.

Whew!
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