How much extra is 35k fewer miles worth?

Elkins45

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Considering two sub-$10k cars. Same model (RAV4 AWD) similar condition, one a 2009 with 120k miles and the other a 2010 with 85k. How much more would you pay for the one with fewer miles, assuming equally good maintenance and similar condition? Is it worth paying $2k more?

My initial thought is that it is, but I won’t know until tomorrow when I’ve driven both.
 
I was thinking $1k to $1.5k more, if in identical condition and both well maintained. Good luck.
 
A year newer is a year longer the plastics / rubber will last.

Mileage is a bit of a wash. If they were truly identical condition I would likely Save the $2K and buy the older / higher mile one. Its more about maintenance at there current point.

If one looks like it was garage kept I would definitely buy that one.
 
Considering two sub-$10k cars. Same model (RAV4 AWD) similar condition, one a 2009 with 120k miles and the other a 2010 with 85k. How much more would you pay for the one with fewer miles, assuming equally good maintenance and similar condition? Is it worth paying $2k more?

My initial thought is that it is, but I won’t know until tomorrow when I’ve driven both.

depends on the tyres I guess. 85k might have just gotten new, the 120k might have nearly worn? that only applies if they're decent tyres that you won't want to get rid of
 
FWIW....about 5 years ago my inlaw bought a 2009 RAV4 4 cylinder with 164K from a guy who commuted to NYC daily (about 100 miles RT). The brakes weren't great and after changing the master cylinder they improved but still weren't perfect. He took it to a mechanic who said it needed a brake vacuum booster. He held off because the brakes were OK and after seeing the condition of the ATF (brown and ugly) he hesitated putting more $$ into it (he bought it cheap for the COVID era....about $4k IIRC). We did 3 D&Rs on the ATF over a few weeks and the color improved somewhat.. Long story short the transmission went out at about 185K and he junked the car.

I was surprised that a Toyota transmission bit the dust but we do live in a mountain region and the original owner probably never changed the ATF fluid. I guess I'd buy the one that had ATF changes or at least has red ATF on the dipstick.
 
He said equally good maintenance and similar condition. How many miles OP drives annually. If 10k that's over 3.5 years of driving and one year newer. I'd buy newer/lower miles. Admittedly I struggle to buy anything approaching 100k miles so what do I know.
 
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They were $25k new so if you knock off $1000 a year you get a 15 year old car worth 10k and a 16 y/o for 9k. By this stupid math alone the older one is the better deal.

If you assume these cars can make 250k miles then it's a dime a mile. The newer one is worth it, barely.

I would go for the slightly newer one so I get the "honeymoon period" from 85k to 120k for "only" $2k. In theory, you could sell it for 2k less after this period. Would that be worth it? Absolutely.
 
Is it worth paying $2k more?
Yes.

The idea that most engine and/or transmission wear occurs on startup is untrue. Wear is a factor of cycles. Piston and ring scraping cycles, transmission actuation cycles, whether CVT belt and actuators or conventional shifting transmission with actuators/bands and clutches or even an ECVT with it's multiple electric motors and the subsequent stresses.

All else being equal, that's 30% less wear. Since most people operate the same way in your local area, it is somewhat safe to assume similar driving patterns.
 
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