How much difference does oil really make?

And a lot of those engines are burning a lot of oil too. Why do you think VRP is so popular right now? A lot of people have oil burners thanks to those cheap oils that only meet the most basic requirements.
No, look at my Xterra. Still not burning anything.

VRP is a band aid for lousy ring design, which is likely the symptom of maximizing mileage / CAFE. So will a premium oil help with a lousy engine - maybe for a while, but there are just as many examples of "I used the best oil and short OCI" and still having countless issues with oil use and other problems like worn timing chains and guides.
 
I don’t drive much these days, so the cost of high-quality oil doesn’t bother me. When I do get behind the wheel, it’s usually a 400 mile round trip and well worth it for the peace of mind. 🤷‍♂️
Slightly off topic, but thank you for correctly spelling “peace of mind”. I read so many misuses of that phrase and people type “piece of mind” 🤦🏻‍♂️ and usually at the same time referring to their vehicles, equipment or what have you as “investments” and I double facepalm lmao.
 
Not much if any honestly. Think of it this way I have never not once seen or heard of a car that was kept up with, like you said religious oil changes with properly specified oils, driven normally, and the like, ever go to the scrap yard because of engine failure due to lubrication. Now most people dont change their oil often enough or religiously enough.

If the engine fails its usually due to being ran low on oil. The engine getting dirty from long drain intervals, being driven too hard, tons of short drive cycles with long OCI's. All things no oil would or could ever prevent. Usually cars that are cared for are gotten rid of due to wrecks, wear and tear on other parts like the suspension, rusting out, and the like.
Agreed. One thing that is often overlooked on our forum, is marginal benefit.

We’ll often apply terms like “my car (an inanimate object) deserves the best.”
 
No, look at my Xterra. Still not burning anything.

VRP is a band aid for lousy ring design, which is likely the symptom of maximizing mileage / CAFE. So will a premium oil help with a lousy engine - maybe for a while, but there are just as many examples of "I used the best oil and short OCI" and still having countless issues with oil use and other problems like worn timing chains and guides.
I’m not saying that every single high mileage engine is burning oil from the use of cheaper oils, but there are a good amount of them out there. Some engine designs are very forgiving and driving habits are a factor as well. But I still think that your best chance of having a perfect condition high mileage engine is to avoid the cheaper oils.
 
My lil bros engine takes 5W50 and he pays $15+ per quart. I’m not sure if that comes in a jug but looking online Mobil 1 is $7. I have no idea how much benefit the $15 oil provides. My guess is not much lol and that’s not a scientific assessment, just an edumacated guess.
 
I’m not saying that every single high mileage engine is burning oil from the use of cheaper oils, but there are a good amount of them out there. Some engine designs are very forgiving and driving habits are a factor as well. But I still think that your best chance of having a perfect condition high mileage engine is to avoid the cheaper oils.
Yes but its a circular argument. Some cars that used premium oil still burn oil. Some cars that use regular oil burn oil. Some cars that use whatever and not that frequently do not burn oil. There is nothing to be gleaned from this. Its confirmation bias using some very narrowly focused data.

Even the so called valvoline "test" posted here a year or so ago they ran the conventional oil far past its rated spec, so it too was manipulated.

I have no problem with using premium oil. Possibly you run longer OCI, or maybe you just like the company and people running it, or maybe you just like the idea, which is completely fine.
 
Yes but its a circular argument. Some cars that used premium oil still burn oil. Some cars that use regular oil burn oil. Some cars that use whatever and not that frequently do not burn oil. There is nothing to be gleaned from this. Its confirmation bias using some very narrowly focused data.

Even the so called valvoline "test" posted here a year or so ago they ran the conventional oil far past its rated spec, so it too was manipulated.

I have no problem with using premium oil. Possibly you run longer OCI, or maybe you just like the company and people running it, or maybe you just like the idea, which is completely fine.
As others have mentioned, the cost difference between the cheaper oils and better ones isn’t really that significant compared to what you pay for fuel every year. If you compare the cost of Supertech vs M1 ESP for example, it’s only about $9 more per oil change. I think that’s money well spent.
 
For me, its the little extra. I exclusively use Amsoil Euro in my wife's Atlas. That car is rode hard and put away wet. So anything that helps the engine stay lubed and cool is a benefit to us.

But I do this also to prevent engine degradation more so than total failure. As others has stated many times, most engines don't fail dramatically, but the little things like oil consumption, loss of full power, emissions, plugged cats, rough running etc. is my purpose. If I can avoid those issues or kick the can much further down the road, great. Its worth the extra few buck per quart.

Another thing I think most of us won't want to admit to is mistakes. Maybe we choose a vehicle that has mechanical flaws. Maybe we compromised on a used car that has a sketchy past. Maybe we simply forgot to change the oil due to life.

Then their is also whole host of reasons for us feel the need for a little better "something" in our lives. For BITOGers, that's oil. For other, it may be Gucci.
 
This being a hobbyist site, we tend to get into "how many angels fit on the head of a pin?" territory quite often. And some people are very particular/anxious about what they use in their vehicles, so you're going to get a lot of very specific answers.

But the truth is that the vast majority of vehicles out there run for the entirety of their service lives without any oil related problems. Lots run 200k or more on bargain oil changed at indifferent intervals.

Look at it this way; if it was hard to get to the end of a car's lifetime without doing/using something specific, we'd ALL know what those specific things are- that sort of knowledge would disseminate through the automotive population quickly- mechanics would want to provide that service, oil companies would want to sell that oil, etc... and they'd all want us to know that they do.

But all we've got is "use the manufacturer rated oil in the recommended weight and follow the manual", and those are all over the place. Chances are that it really doesn't matter much at all, as long as you aren't buying "Ring Seal" API SA from the dollar store, or changing your oil as often as you change your tires.
 
I'll add this to the discussion USE CASE, USE CASE, USE CASE. The difference between something being great and terrible is how you use it. What I mean is if you get a set of Craftsman screw drivers to use at home you may have them for 40 years and they will serve you great, but as a professional industrial electrician I cant keep a craftsman screwdriver for more than 2 or 3 months until I break it. Does that mean Craftsman is bad? No it means I am using it outside what it's meant for.

If you run a name brand synthetic oil for extended drain intervals bevause you pay for oil changes then that makes sense. If you run a boutique oil in your hot rod then yeah that makes sense and it fits your use case. If you run a store brand oil in your commuter car you drive 25 miles one way to work and change it every 5k. It will work great for you because it fits your use case.

If you are running a boutique oil in your commuter car that drives under the conditions previously described then you're throwing away money for what amounts to zero benefit. The same as buying a set of insulated Klien screwdrivers for light use at home every few months. It's all about use case and proper upkeep.
 
Would you rather have an oil that just barely squeaks by or an oil that greatly exceeds the requirements? Or better still, an oil that has many different European manufacturers approvals. I know what I’m choosing…
That's why I asked the question in the first place. If I get 300k miles using the oil that "just barely squeaks by", or 350k using the one that "greatly exceeds the requirements", then depending on one's situation, that difference may be insignificant or unimportant. If the difference is, say, 200k vs 400k, that much more significant difference may matter to those same people.
 
As others have mentioned, the cost difference between the cheaper oils and better ones isn’t really that significant compared to what you pay for fuel every year. If you compare the cost of Supertech vs M1 ESP for example, it’s only about $9 more per oil change. I think that’s money well spent.
It’s really such a small price difference, and oil isn’t just oil. The truth is there are many unknowns about true needs and what is not needed. Depends on the goals. If one wants to ensure the best possible outcome, there is no downside to boutiques or the higher priced OTS synthetics. Unless you are truly on a budget of scraping by, then sure the cheapest appropriate grade with appropriate approvals changed more often is “enough”, but I think that’s only when you need to save the funds.

Is there any other benefit to cheapest OTS synthetic oil than price? May come at some sort of engine longevity cost. We’ve seen that on this very forum. So, it does happen.

I suppose more frequent/often oil changes are “good enough” for short time owners. I personally have to care for my vehicles for the long term ownership model. Therefore, it’s “penny wise pound foolish” to skimp on oil when I may receive a better lasting engine; even if the results are debatable often. Cheap insurance at worst.

.02
 
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It’s really such a small price difference, and oil isn’t just oil. The truth is there are many unknowns about true needs and what is not needed. Depends on the goals. If one wants to ensure the best possible outcome, there is no downside to boutiques or the higher priced OTS synthetics. Unless you are truly on a budget of scraping by, then sure the cheapest appropriate grade with appropriate approvals changed more often is “enough”, but I think that’s only when you need to save the funds.

Is there any other benefit to cheapest OTS synthetic oil than price? May come at some sort of engine longevity cost. We’ve seen that on this very forum. So, it does happen.

I suppose more frequent/often oil changes are “good enough” for short time owners. I personally have to care for my vehicles for the long term ownership model. Therefore, it’s “penny wise pound foolish” to skimp on oil when I may receive a better lasting engine; even if the results are debatable often. Cheap insurance at worst.

.02
That's another great point. For instance, the difference between Valovoline Restore & Protect, which goes for around $30 here at WalMart, and their Supertech Full Synthetic which goes for $19, assuming you change your oil every 6 months, the difference is $22 a year, which in the big picture, would be insignificant for many people, so why not get the extra cleaning and performance you might get from the more expensive oil?
 
It’s really such a small price difference, and oil isn’t just oil. The truth is there are many unknowns about true needs and what is not needed. Depends on the goals. If one wants to ensure the best possible outcome, there is no downside to boutiques or the higher priced OTS synthetics. Unless you are truly on a budget of scraping by, then sure the cheapest appropriate grade with appropriate approvals changed more often is “enough”, but I think that’s only when you need to save the funds.

Is there any other benefit to cheapest OTS synthetic oil than price? May come at some sort of engine longevity cost. We’ve seen that on this very forum. So, it does happen.

I suppose more frequent/often oil changes are “good enough” for short time owners. I personally have to care for my vehicles for the long term ownership model. Therefore, it’s “penny wise pound foolish” to skimp on oil when I may receive a better lasting engine; even if the results are debatable often. Cheap insurance at worst.

.02
Exactly. Most people would ditch a 2018 Outback with 100k miles burning 3 quarts per 5k miles. Or run it out of oil…With premium oils I’ve got it down to 1/2 quart and plan on going 250k minimum like I always do with my Subaru’s.
 
When I say “cheaper oil” I am referring to Kirkland, Supertech, or any of the house brands that just meet the bare minimum requirements.
No offense, but how do you know that Kirkland/Supertech/house brands, "just meet the bare minimum requirements". This sounds like your assumption, based on the price of these oils. These Warren produced oils have zero advertising budget that needs to be offset by higher prices. Sometimes, cheap is good, without compromise. Without facts, it's just a guess or opinion.
 
That's another great point. For instance, the difference between Valovoline Restore & Protect, which goes for around $30 here at WalMart, and their Supertech Full Synthetic which goes for $19, assuming you change your oil every 6 months, the difference is $22 a year, which in the big picture, would be insignificant for many people, so why not get the extra cleaning and performance you might get from the more expensive oil?
Most people don't hang out on oil forums and discuss the subtle nuances between brands, blends, and viscosities. Such a shame they will never learn of the cleansing properties of a fresh jug of VRP. :rolleyes:
 
Exactly. Most people would ditch a 2018 Outback with 100k miles burning 3 quarts per 5k miles. Or run it out of oil…With premium oils I’ve got it down to 1/2 quart and plan on going 250k minimum like I always do with my Subaru’s.
I'll bet there are way, way too many variables to even come close to attributing anything like that to oil choice. How would you know, for example, that you got a batch of rings that were on the softer side, or that the cylinder bore was on the larger end of the acceptable range, and that over a decade or so, you end up burning more oil? Or any number of other things that you don't know about nor have any control over?

I'm not saying that it's a reason NOT to buy more expensive oil, if it makes you feel good. What I'm saying is that it's awfully hard to tell what might make a car burn oil after some arbitrary number of miles, especially if you buy a used one. Some knucklehead before you might have used Gunk Motor Flush incorrectly and set you up for burning oil later, even if you're diligent about OCI, oil choice, and filter choice.
 
I'll bet there are way, way too many variables to even come close to attributing anything like that to oil choice. How would you know, for example, that you got a batch of rings that were on the softer side, or that the cylinder bore was on the larger end of the acceptable range, and that over a decade or so, you end up burning more oil? Or any number of other things that you don't know about nor have any control over?

I'm not saying that it's a reason NOT to buy more expensive oil, if it makes you feel good. What I'm saying is that it's awfully hard to tell what might make a car burn oil after some arbitrary number of miles, especially if you buy a used one. Some knucklehead before you might have used Gunk Motor Flush incorrectly and set you up for burning oil later, even if you're diligent about OCI, oil choice, and filter choice.
Here’s the story below. In my experience the difference in oils has never been wear, it’s engine/piston cleanliness. IMO my specific vehicle under severe conditions created an environment for piston deposits. I’ve always said oil choice is based on the engine and conditions. Most can get away with anything but others can’t.

 
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