How long are you guys running Pennzoil Ultra?

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Going to switch back to a 20wt in a few hundred miles to try and get back a touch of MPG. Engine is a 2008 Dodge 4.7L V8 that is driven hard in hot & dusty climates, with heavy loads and lots of idling. Already has 99k in less than 2.5 yrs.

Got a couple jugs of PU 5w20 that I would like to try and run for 10k miles (3 months). With the supposedly-high TBN that PU contains, think it'll be good for 10k?
 
Since you drive in hot and dusty climates pulling heavy loads with extensive idling, I would run the first interval of PU to around 5,000 miles and perform an analysis. If active additive is left(which I'm sure it would be), I would run the second interval to 7,000 miles and analyze it again. If the second analysis recommends increasing the interval above 7,000, then I would increase to around 10,000. To me, it is better to gradually increase the run time on the oil and ensure that it is still protecting the engine properly. Your driving conditions will definitely test the oil's durability. By the way if you haven't used an oil analysis service, the people at Blackstone are great!
Just my $0.02
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I ran Ultra 5W30 for 8200 miles in my Buck 3.6DI engine. The UOA results were very good. However, that is as far as I am comfortable running Ultra in my application. I did a 5000 mile OIC and had a UOA done before extending to 8200 miles. synthetic_crazy's suggestion makes sense to me.
 
I would do what Crazy suggested. I will say that the pre-2008 4.7l has sludge issues, I'm hoping that with the work that Dodge put into refining the 4.7l to get the better HP and fuel efficiency that they would have addressed that issue but I am not sure. If you see the formation of sludge decrease your OCIs immediately, its easier to stay clean then it is to clean an already sludged up engine. I myself have a 2004 4.7l and do 4k OCIs on synth.
 
Originally Posted By: synthetic_crazy
Since you drive in hot and dusty climates pulling heavy loads with extensive idling, I would run the first interval of PU to around 5,000 miles and perform an analysis. If active additive is left(which I'm sure it would be), I would run the second interval to 7,000 miles and analyze it again. If the second analysis recommends increasing the interval above 7,000, then I would increase to around 10,000. To me, it is better to gradually increase the run time on the oil and ensure that it is still protecting the engine properly. Your driving conditions will definitely test the oil's durability. By the way if you haven't used an oil analysis service, the people at Blackstone are great!
Just my $0.02
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+1. This may be the best advice in this thread, and right from the very first response.

-Spyder
 
if you put that many miles on it in that short of time then it must be quite a few highway miles, even though you do drive in hot and/or dusty conditions while towing loads. i'd run it 6-7k then get a UOA. ultra is a stout oil.
 
With your driving habits (read: severe service) I wouldn't go down to a 20 weight. Stick with a 30 weight. A 10w30 for all but winter time, then I'd use a 5w30. I don't think you are really going to gain much MPG going down to a 20 weight. All of that idling and towing are tough on an engine. Stick with a 30w and do what synthetic_crazy recommends. No way would I go blindly right to 10k miles with your driving conditions and habits.
 
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i would have to agree with spankey and synthetic crazy. both of their responses were quite reasonable. i think going straight to a 10k OCI is a bit much with heavy loads and dust.

ultra is a very good oil, but that is asking a lot of it.
 
I'll be running PU 5w-40 in my 530i for 10K miles (about 9 months), but I don't carry any heavy loads and my car has a relatively large oil sump.
 
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
I'll be running PU 5w-40 in my 530i for 10K miles (about 9 months), but I don't carry any heavy loads and my car has a relatively large oil sump.


illinois is not dusty either. there is no question that his driving is severe duty.
 
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Wow, didn't expect so many replies so quick. Here's a brief "oil history" of the truck...

Since new, my truck was always driven VERY hard (lots of high RPM's and heel-toe downshifting) and is my daily driver/work truck around our orchards. Never gets below 30 degrees in winter, but gets up into the 100's in the summer, when the truck is run hardest (fruit season, almond harvest, etc.)

For first ~40k miles, used only Mobil 1 0w20 AFE at 7k intervals. Truck ran fine on this oil, but had a bit more valvetrain clatter than I liked. Also, engine would start complaining after about 7k or so, with a slightly rougher idle and a bit more top-end noise.

Then tried one change of PP 5w20...engine liked this oil for first 3k or so, then started getting loud. By 5k the top end was ticking so bad that several people asked me "what's wrong with your truck?" Changed oils and problem disappeared.

From ~45k to about 80k ran German Castrol 0w30. The 4.7 absolutely LOVES this oil. Idle became butter-smooth and the motor was so quiet that all I could hear were the ticking injectors. However, I did notice a slight drop in fuel economy (.2-.3 mpg) and there was a fairly noticeable (though not significant) drop in power with the thicker oil. Ran GC at 8k intervals, though once ran it to 9500 and that's when the motor started to let me know it was time for new oil (if that makes any sense).

Have since been running Mobil 1 0w40, which I have also been very happy with. Engine runs about as quiet & smooth as GC, fuel economy is the same as GC, but it seems to have freed up just a bit more power than GC. However, being that I drive a truck 4k miles per month and average in the neighborhood of 12-13 mpg, any extra I can get will help.

SO that being said, I thought PU was supposed to be the newest form of liquid gold? I figured if M1 0w20 AFE had no problem with 7k miles in such harsh conditions with a starting TBN in the 8.xx range, PU should hold up to 10k with a higher starting TBN (I recall reading that it is in the 11-13 range, depending on weight).

I was just figuring that if there was any 20wt OTC oil that could stand up to severe conditions for 10k, it would be PU.

Unfortunately, I have not had the chance to do any UOA's and find it hard to justify the cost unless I am trying to diagnose a problem.
 
In your climate, with an engine that doesn't 'require' a 20-weight (read: Hemi MDS), and the ultra-hard driving you do, I wouldn't run less than a 30-weight in your truck.

PU 5W-20 will most likely work fine, but if it were me, I'd trade it for some PU 10W-30 and see how THAT does for 8-9k miles. Mileage differences between PU 10W-30 and 5W-20, in a V-8 truck worked hard will be negligible.

JMO.....
 
I recently ran 5W30 Ultra for 8200 miles in my Enclave, 3.6DI GM engine. The UOA was very good. Blackstone suggested I try running it 10,000 miles.
the 3.6DI engine is a tough application. If it stands up in that engine, it probably will do very well in your application.
 
I would also creep up on a 10k OCI, and I'm one of those people that think people waste most synthetics, and even conventional for that matter... In your situation I myself would be looking for a Dodge 2500 Cummins Turbo Diesel... It would be perfect for your needs, better fuel economy, and the diesel will stand up t those conditions better... not that your gasser is having any trouble by th info you have given though.

I also think with your truck involving work, and that amount of fuel/gas, and oil going through it that it would benefit you to at least establish a UOA trend for an oil, then stick with that oil. Now I'm going to plunk a big one down on you, try running a HDEO which will also fit your situation very nice. I know you didn't ask for oil recommendations, however I couldn't resist... Delo, Rotella is available now at local walmarts in 10w-30, and the synthetic 5w-40 that gives some very nice choices on oil packages that are made for your situation.
 
Even with all the "severe service", the engine is never shut off cold, and I have absolutely none of the sludge issues that these engines are known for. If it can hold up to 8k on a DI motor, I also don't think 10k will be too hard in my engine with all that starting TBN and PU's seeming TBN retention ability.

Already got a 2nd gen 12v flatbed diesel for the heavy stuff.

Need a 1/2 ton as a daily driver...compact PU can't handle the loads (Tacoma, Frontier, etc.) and a 3/4-1 ton 4wd is too big around the orchards, both in height and turning radius.

Unless the new 1/2-ton diesels that are supposed to come out are released with a manual transmission (HIGHLY unlikely), I'm going to be stuck with this truck for a while.

HDEO would work okay and we have bulk Delo 15w40 that is available to me essentially for free, but I feel that it is too thick of an oil for this engine. Chrysler used to spec 5w30 in US (in pre CAFE days) and still specs a 30wt oil most other areas of the world, including Australia. If the PU 5w20 doesn't hold up, will likely switch to one of Mobil 1's 30wt "high mileage" oils next time around.

German Castrol really worked great in this engine and is always on sale at AZ, but I prefer not to support BP for the time being.
 
i have a 2008 dodge ram 4.7 with 27k on it, i have used all types syn oil the one i find that works best is castrol edge or pennzoil ultra. i use whatever cheaper at the time of oil change. i have been running 3k oci because i notice my oil is very dark although my past 2 changing the color has been lighter, so i might extend to 5k the owner manuel state i should use 6k oci.
 
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