How important is ZDDP in small engines?
- Thread starter Pete591
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As much as possible... I use AMSOIL 4 Stroke engine oil because of the higher ZDDP, the very good cold flow properties and because it stays cleaner longer in the Snow Blower / Lawn Mowers I use it in...
I say if it has No Catalytic converter... Then Load it up on the ZDDP because it can't hurt. (Within reason of course)
I say if it has No Catalytic converter... Then Load it up on the ZDDP because it can't hurt. (Within reason of course)
These small engines do not have the valve spring pressure that many automotive engines do. Pick your favorite oil and use it with confindence.
Yes but some of them have metal gears inside the crankcase which IMO creates enormous pressure on the oil.
True... I think ZDDP can't hurt though...
JTK
$100 Site Donor 2025
There wouldn't be any return on your investment unless the engine was used high hours commercially and you could extend the drain intervals.
Joel
Joel
I can testify that B&S engines are tough... My dad has a lawn mower that was used 4 hours every week for about 4 months each year for 27 years and only had the oil changed maybe 3 times in that time. It puffs a bit of smoke on start-up but still runs strong! That's about 3 oil changes is 1728 hours!
Originally Posted By: Pete591
What levels of Phos and Zinc do you look for in a snowblower/lawnmower/generator engine?
Is 700-1000 ppm ok?
A stouter 1000-1200 ok?
Or something like 1200+?
Assume the oil to be a GRP IV PAO for the sake of arguement.
You've got all sorts of air-cooled engines in this group.
Some have aluminum bores, some iron. Some are OHV, some are L-head. Some have splash oiling, some have pressurized oil systems.
Assuming a sort of average, optimum oil would look like motorcycle oil - synthetic, high ZDDP, and polar.
In practice some of these engines seem to last forever with anything in them, even the ones with aluminum bores.
.
What levels of Phos and Zinc do you look for in a snowblower/lawnmower/generator engine?
Is 700-1000 ppm ok?
A stouter 1000-1200 ok?
Or something like 1200+?
Assume the oil to be a GRP IV PAO for the sake of arguement.
You've got all sorts of air-cooled engines in this group.
Some have aluminum bores, some iron. Some are OHV, some are L-head. Some have splash oiling, some have pressurized oil systems.
Assuming a sort of average, optimum oil would look like motorcycle oil - synthetic, high ZDDP, and polar.
In practice some of these engines seem to last forever with anything in them, even the ones with aluminum bores.
.
Originally Posted By: StevieC
I can testify that B&S engines are tough... My dad has a lawn mower that was used 4 hours every week for about 4 months each year for 27 years and only had the oil changed maybe 3 times in that time. It puffs a bit of smoke on start-up but still runs strong! That's about 3 oil changes is 1728 hours!
Sad, but true for a lot of small engines...
I can testify that B&S engines are tough... My dad has a lawn mower that was used 4 hours every week for about 4 months each year for 27 years and only had the oil changed maybe 3 times in that time. It puffs a bit of smoke on start-up but still runs strong! That's about 3 oil changes is 1728 hours!
Sad, but true for a lot of small engines...
My dad a mechanic of 35 years doesn't believe in UOA wear metals... He says even if its dark and still thin enough to resemble engine oil it's good enough to stay in. He only changes the mower/blowers oil with new stuff when it started getting thicker.
He says the only reason why he changes the oil in his van is because he's changing the filter and doesn't want it to plug up... 10,000KM (6,000 miles) on whatever dino he can find and if he has the time to do it. He now has 300,000 KM on his van and it still passes SMOG tests and doesn't use oil!
I have just ARX-ed it recently with very good results, was a good test. I wish I took pictures but I didn't 'cos it was freakin' cold!
Originally Posted By: tpitcher
Originally Posted By: StevieC
I can testify that B&S engines are tough... My dad has a lawn mower that was used 4 hours every week for about 4 months each year for 27 years and only had the oil changed maybe 3 times in that time. It puffs a bit of smoke on start-up but still runs strong! That's about 3 oil changes is 1728 hours!
Sad, but true for a lot of small engines...
I was changing my Toro (Tecumseh 6.5) mid season last July and my neighbor asked me to change his too. I asked him when he did it last, an he said "NEVER." His Toro is 4 years old. The oil looked like runny chocolate pudding with metal flakes. The [censored] thing still runs though.
Originally Posted By: StevieC
I can testify that B&S engines are tough... My dad has a lawn mower that was used 4 hours every week for about 4 months each year for 27 years and only had the oil changed maybe 3 times in that time. It puffs a bit of smoke on start-up but still runs strong! That's about 3 oil changes is 1728 hours!
Sad, but true for a lot of small engines...
I was changing my Toro (Tecumseh 6.5) mid season last July and my neighbor asked me to change his too. I asked him when he did it last, an he said "NEVER." His Toro is 4 years old. The oil looked like runny chocolate pudding with metal flakes. The [censored] thing still runs though.
My neighbor never changed the oil on his B&S mower and one July day while mowing; the crank shaft busted in two and put the blade through the deck. So not changing oil can be dangerous in that sense.
Also, I know a number of LawnBoy 2 cycle owners who have excellent condition running mowers with up to 26 seasons on them. That I feel is the result of getting a new constant dose of lubrication.
Being negligent has to take it's toll on engine horsepower as well.
My service center finds that lack of oil changing significantly will cause compression loss and that is from scored cylinder walls. Not worth fixing usually do to cost but a disgruntled customer who thinks they were ripped off.
A lot of customers will not check their oil let alone change it. But to have a "tune-up" seasonally with pick-up service is over $100.00 so they say forget it.
Also, I know a number of LawnBoy 2 cycle owners who have excellent condition running mowers with up to 26 seasons on them. That I feel is the result of getting a new constant dose of lubrication.
Being negligent has to take it's toll on engine horsepower as well.
My service center finds that lack of oil changing significantly will cause compression loss and that is from scored cylinder walls. Not worth fixing usually do to cost but a disgruntled customer who thinks they were ripped off.
A lot of customers will not check their oil let alone change it. But to have a "tune-up" seasonally with pick-up service is over $100.00 so they say forget it.
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