How hard is it to replace rear/front brake pads?

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Have a 2003 Honda CRV ex. Has disc brakes front and rear.
I am somewhat mechanically inclined but have never replaced disc pads.

Is this something I can handle or do I need to go to a stealership?
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Replacing pads on a honda is very, very easy. I have rear drums on my civic, so i can only say how to change the front pads since i doubt that is any different on your cr-v. With the wheel off and staring at the brakes, all you really do is remove the lower caliper bolt, swing the caliper up out of the way, and take both pads out. I like to replace the shims and clips every time i do the pads, which you can get at honda. The shims are pieces of metal which go on the back of the pads, some pads include these. The clips are the thin pieces of metal that hold the pads in the caliper, you should see what i'm talking about when you get there. Then you just rub a layer of anti-squeal grease on the back of the pads, which make contact with the caliper pistons, and put the pads in. swing caliper down, bolt everything back togeather, and you're all set. If you decide to do it yourself, i can scan the pages out of my chiltons for you.
 
I'm not familiar with the CRV brakes spefically, but pads are usually within the abilities of folks who are somewhat mechanically inclined.

A few points (there are more) -

Make sure the car is well supported with jack stands. Very important safety issue.

Get a box of disposable poly or latex gloves from Wally World or other discounter. Using them makes working on cars much more enjoyable.

Check some of the threads on brake bleeding/fluid changing. It is possible to damage a master cylinder if you choose to bleed the brakes.

Remove some of the fluid from the reservoir before you start (I have used a medicine syringe for years(no, not the needle kind) available at any drug store. That way, when you push the caliper pistons back in, you won't overflow the fluid.

Some new cars require the rear brake pistons to be turned while being pushed in. I improvised a tool, but it was a big PITA. I understand that Auto Zone either lends or rents the special tool - take advantage of that if you can.

There's probably a CRV or general Honda board/site that has a detailed write-up of doing the whole job.

As a general proposition - I think the folks on BITOG will agree - that doing the work oneself is very satisfying, and goes well beyond the dollar savings involved. My wife, quite astutely, calls if "Garage Therapy".
 
I seriously doubt that I would go to a stealership, maybe an independent mechanic, but prefer to do it myself.
Have you replaced replaced brake shoes before? Do you have a family member or neighbor that could help you along the 1st time? Do you have the tools needed?
What pads are you going to use? Do you have any brake problems now such as vibrations, etc.?
You'll want to take a look around to visually inspect the brake lines, CV boots, etc. while you are at it. You will need to grease the caliper slider pins and inspect the boots for tears, etc. I assume the rears have integral parking brake. You'll probably have to screw the piston in on the rears to accommodate the new pads. The fronts will require the standard clamp to press in the piston. That's how it was on my '02 Accord that I did this weekend. I would spray the piston boot with WD40 & make sure it doesn't get twisted.
 
Its not too bad, but if you are doing it for the first time, Take a picture of it before you start. Makes putting it back together alot easier.

I use my digital camera all the time on automotive repairs. Memory isn't as good as it used to be.
 
If you haven't done it before, I would suggest you pay someone and see how they replace the brake pads. If your concerned about a "stealership" get some estimates. In my experience there are a lot of well qualified garages around rather than a
"stealership" that can do the job just as well.
 
Somebody offered to copy Chiltons for you,,not that high just buy your own. Tons of information. Lots of it things you think you know how to do that are often WRONG . With good manual in hand many jobs you might have hesitated to do can be done and actually done right.

Bob
 
If you're just doing a "pad slap", its really quite easy. I've learned a lot by just tackling maintenance tasks that I've never done before. Research it online first, then go for it.
 
disks are far easier to do than drums. also lube the guide pin (its the guide pin right?) if you dont clean and lube it. it could cause to caliper to bind and such. other than that its real easy. why I got a 03 dakota. 4 wheel disks. never want to mess with drums again.
 
dude, it's way easy - just as others have described... I did it myself and I am in no way mechanically inclined - all I did was loosen the lug nuts, jack it up - jack stands, remove wheel and it's pretty self explanatory, you can just wing it - thats all I did and I'm still alive, for now.
 
It is fairly easy on any of the cars I have worked on. On some rear brakes you have to have a cube looking tool to work on them which costs around 10.00-12.00 at the parts store. Also you will want to have some twine, string, or wire to support your calipers when you take them off the rotor, leaving them hang by the brake lines can cause problems. I would also get 2 qts of brake fluid and flush the system while you're at it.
 
For the first time, it would be good to have someone who is experienced in your vehicle to look over your shoulder. I would also get a Haynes manual. I would scuff the rotor surface with Emory cloth-not aluminum oxide sand paper. This is to take the place of the old 'turn the rotors' at every brake job. Definitely- do it yourself.
 
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dude, it's way easy - just as others have described... I did it myself and I am in no way mechanically inclined - all I did was loosen the lug nuts, jack it up - jack stands, remove wheel and it's pretty self explanatory, you can just wing it - thats all I did and I'm still alive, for now.




I really want to do the brakes on my Passat but it's the "jack it up" part that gets me. (Well, that and bleeding the brake fluid.) Can I use my oem jack to jack up one side, put a jack stand under the car then go around to the other side and repeat? Or should I get one of those big, uh, garage jacks or whatever they're called?
 
yeah you can do that. jack one side put pack stand under and then move ouver to the other side and do the same. just as long as both sides are level and sound (no movement or anything)
 
I used a bottle jack once with no jack stand, only because I wasn't under it.

a garage jack would be easier, but you can do it with a bottle or scissor jack too - I prefer a scissor jac, seems more stable.

I have never drained the brake fluid, I know I need to though, just worried about the master cylinder.
 
To keep it simple, for my first brake job, I didn't mess with the fluid (just ensured it didn't overflow, then topped off if needed). I didn't want to end up with spongy brakes, stripped bleeders/etc. Next major service I had, I asked my mech to flush the brakes and shared clutch fluid.
 
Don't let the cost of entry of jackstands turn you off from this project. You won't be under the car, you'll just have your hands in the wheelwell. Have the good sense to not be under your hubs and even if the car drops you'll be safe and fine. When you need jackstands, you'll get them... auto work is addicting but you can build a tool kit a little at a time.

Put the tire/wheel you removed under the car's frame after you jack it up; if the jack fails the car will land on this and save your suspension/brakes/oil pan or whatever's lowest from eating asphalt.
 
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