How far have you come on BITOG

[fdcg27]

This was my first post:

Originally Posted By: fdcg27
I am using M1 15W-50 EP in my '99 115K 4cyl Accord right now.
The oil was >2.00/qt on clearance.
Based upon FrankN4's experience, I thought that the oil would do the engine no harm, particularly if I used it only during warm weather.
It is coming out after ~6K next weekend. Next up is M1 5W-30.
Subjectively, fuel consumption might be a little higher (30.2 mpg on the last tank, with several Sure is quiet, though!


I may have been right in using an oil a couple of grades thicker than the 5W-30 Honda recommended.
The car went back to 5W-30 after that and ran flawlessly for the next four years at which point my older son totaled it after falling asleep on the way home from work and running it into the back of a semi trailer.
The Accord was toast, of course but my son was okay. The airbags no doubt helped and when I saw the remains of the car, I was very thankful that my son had walked away from the accident.
Main thing I've learned here is that I'll more often err on the side of caution than I've run any oil to its potential mileage.

 

[01rangerxl]

First post back in 2006...

Originally Posted By: 01rangerxl
I have a 2001 2.5L Ranger that uses an FL400S oil filter. I am thinking of using ARX on the truck soon since it was neglected for 50K miles before I got it (currently has 70K miles). Can I use a larger FL1A in place of the FL400S while the ARX is in the truck?


I never did use ARX, or an FL1A on that truck.

Last time I had a truck with 70K on it was sometime in 2009.

 

[aquariuscsm]

Originally Posted By: Slick17601
The sad thing is this board is a mere shadow of its former self. We used to have some very knowledgable folks here but they have moved on.


I agree with this,200%. It's weird when I google a very old bitog topic and see all of the original founding members' posts. I'd found out about this site many years ago when I had my first 3000GT. I was a member on 3si.org,and someone linked bitog from there. I lurked for years before finally joining.

 

[userfriendly]

Back in the day you could mention XW50 with out fear of hate mail.
I think the thin oil crowd has finally given up on me.

 

[Pablo]

A generation ago.........well OK 14 years in a couple days! Seems like way back.

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/9136/Re:_How_well_does_*no*_oil_lub#Post9136

Quote:
Pablo Offline
Registered: 10/28/02
Posts: 47034
Loc: Duvall WA - Pacific NW USA

This is actually relatively common - if one is not paying attention - but I have seen it happen at "whacky lube" type places...the filter seal likes staying on the block not the filter....

As for the car - how far did he drive? If it goes - drive it! [crushedcar]

 

[Merkava_4]

Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
All you guys that use Mobil 1 are the gay feminist type.

My first post.

 

[userfriendly]

out of habit I was looking for the LIKE button

 

[Papa Bear]

 

[spackard]

From 5/8/2011, in reply to "Who has an OLDER Honda or Toyota?":
Quote:
'92 Acura Vigor, 223k miles.
There are known issues with this model; I've had them and fixed them. Latest things are rubber that's become hard and brittle:
- spark plug tunnel seals
- distributor seal and bearing
- camshaft seal
- timing belt (3rd one)
- outer tie rods
- idler pulley bearing
- A/T cooler hoses
- radiator

Did these myself because I lost my job recently and figured I had more time than money, and that I'd be driving a lot farther for the next job I get.


It has 265k miles now. And, ugh, about $4500 in parts and labor, and $2500 in body repair (other guy's fault).

 

[Tom NJ]

My first post was just over 10 years ago:

Originally Posted By: Tom NJ

Hi Primus,

Thanks for the Russian specs - they came in handy this week as I was discussing (via email) supply of polyol esters to a Russian lubricants company for turbine oils. I haven't been in Russia for a dozen years and was rusty on the specs. Your timing was perfect!

Tom

 

[Jetronic]

Quote:
Well, the oil change time is approaching....

I don't know what oil is in there now, having recently bought the car, but these are what I have available to me..

Total Ineo 5w-30 (about 6 euro per quart)
Valvoline Synpower 5w-40 (about 8 euro per quart, IIRC)
Castrol Edge TD 5w-40 (14 euro per quart, but will get a discount on this)

Any opinions on the better oil out of these? I'd be inclined to go for a 5w-40 for the better shock rotection of the bearings, but I'm sure the Turbo likes the thinner oil...

For those that don't know this engine: It's a 2.4 liter 5 cilinder 10v engine, with turbo. Power output 136 bhp and 310 Nm torque.

The EGR valve has been disabled. There's no catalytic converter, so no need to protect it...

My daily commute is a whopping 5 miles, which means the coolant barely gets up to temp, but occasionally I use the car for longer distances and it gets driven hard then....

better get some sleep now, I've been reading up on this section of the forum half the night already....


My first post

 

[Garak]

My first post was asking about coolant for the old Audi, given the difficulty in finding anything sensible and specific on our parts store (or chain store) shelves.

 

[Toy4x4]

My first on 9/16/02:
"I've just found this forum and have been reading for about 4 hours now! Sheesh! So much great info., but my eyes are boggled. [freaknout] I plan on using Auto-Rx on my '93 Toyota 4x4 V6 Xcab (114K) and then switching to synthetics with the possibility of using a remote "super" bypass filter. Just wanted to say here that I used BG44K Fuel Treatment and the truck is humming. It started smoothing things out within 20 miles. Costs about $20 per can."

I did use AutoRx, but didn't do the bypass filter thing. Switched to syn at ~118k and sold that truck with 206k on it after 20 years, sole owner. Jeez, this post seems like it was 20+ years ago, not 14!

 

[DriveHard]

My first in February of 2004

Originally Posted By: DriveHard
I'm a newbie, although I have been reading this forum for a little over a year, so please bear this in mind (be gentle)...

I have a 2003 Suzuki SV1000S (motorcycle, but using a car oil so unsure of proper location)
1 liter, V-twin, water cooled, shared sump with tranny, and wet clutch.
OE recomends 10W-40
Currently using Rotella T synth 5W-40, but worried about shear stability since its not a true synth. Doing 2000 mi intervals, but would like to go out to 4000 (I know I should use a UOA)

I know from reading all the wonderful posts on hear that a conventional 10W-40 would die (shear) rather quickly in a shared sump application.

I also know that todays energy conserving motor oils can cause problems with a wet clutch due to friction modifiers.

I want an oil I can get easily when I grab my car oil at the local X-mart (rotella T synth in car)

What I am getting to is...since M1 5-40 is rated for diesel engines, I recall that one of the diesel specs is for use with wet clutches. If someone could confirm that spec is on the label, and is not energy conserving, I think I will have found the perfect oil to use in my bike!!! What do you all think?

 

[Pop_Rivit]

Originally Posted By: Solarent
How far have you come on BITOG


Far enough to know that it's just oil, and any oil that meets specifications will work just fine.

 

[Benzadmiral]

I'd post my first, but I joined in late 2005 -- I'm not sure the search function goes back that far.

 

[Nick1994]

Go to your profile and view your posts, then click on the last page

Originally Posted By: Benzadmiral
I'd post my first, but I joined in late 2005 -- I'm not sure the search function goes back that far.


Originally Posted By: Benzadmiral
Hullo, oil fans,

Benzadmiral here, coming to you from the once-great city of New Orleans. I've been learning a lot from BITOG for more than a year, but this is my first post. I've searched for a similar topic and haven't turned up much, and very little about a car like mine.

It's a 1997 C230 Mercedes sedan, the normally-aspirated 4-cyl., 71K miles. I've had it a little more than a year. The previous owner apparently drove it only about 6K a year, and until Hurricane Katrina I only drove it about 9K. (I put a good 2K on it, though, evacuating to Texas and returning to NO. The little gold beast performed like a thoroughbred all the way and, at approx. 70 mph, returned over 30 mpg on the highway.)

Thanks to info here, I started this car out on Chevron Delo 15W-40 on a 3-month OCI, but found I was wasting money and oil changing at only 2400 miles. Also, I thought I could use a little thinner oil, to help with mpg (I was getting only about 22 with 75/25 city/highway driving). In June I went to a mix of 5 qts. Havoline 5W-30 and 1 qt. Delo, and ran it in NO and TX summer heat, mostly city but then including part of the evac run, for 3 mos./4K miles. Before returning to NO, I changed it to Trop-Artic Syn-blend 10W-30, and everything I've read here suggests I could keep it in there until 4K also.

My questions (at last):

1) I won't be doing a lot of driving between now and Christmas, with the city rebuilding, and those trips will be fairly short ones. It doesn't get terribly cold here; we rarely see even a freezing night, and almost never below 25 degrees F. Should I change by time, 4 months (which might be only 2400 miles!), or by miles (seeing it might take me 5-6 months to run up to 4K)? I can probably work in a long highway run every week or two, though.

2) Does anyone have a similar car, and if so, what grade of oil do you use? My owner's manual, cleverly, says merely to consult my dealer. Their recommendation is Mobil 1 0W-40, but I don't want to pay synthetic prices when I know (from my time here) that there are oils as good for a lot less dough. The temp/viscosity charts all say almost any grade can handle temps above 86 degrees F., which pretty much describes this viciously sweaty climate from March through November. If anybody has some specific recommendation that I should go to a xxW-40 oil, please let me know.

Thanks in advance,
Paul W. (the Benzadmiral)

 

[supton]

Originally Posted By: Benzadmiral
I'd post my first, but I joined in late 2005 -- I'm not sure the search function goes back that far.


Go to "my posts". It should list everything.

 

[eljefino]

Not very far.

Quote:
Used to buy 6-packs of Adirondack brand soda for 24 cents: 18c plus 5c deposit plus 1c tax. Drank the soda and returned the cans for 30 cents!! Idiots at walmart priced per can but left the bird-choking rings on-- would get one bar code of the six scanned. Management was not interested in making this right; the computerized ordering meant the shelves became bare.

 

[IndyIan]

First post in 2008
Quote:
Hi Everyone,
I was wondering what would be the best oil or oil additive for my 300 Suzuki Kingquad. It has a common sump with the gear box, final drive, and engine. It also has a wet plate automatic clutch.
I use this machine primarily for low speed towing and snowplowing and I am worried about transmission gear lubrication at such low speeds. In 1st gear in superlow the clutch fully engages at ~2 mph and in some cases I'll do 1 or 2 minutes of 1/2 throttle pulling at this speed. I assume its splash lubrication in the final drive but I don't think theres much splashing going on with the tires doing 60 rpm...
It sounds like lots of moly would be a good thing for the final drive but not for the wet clutch. To add to the fun I need it to start in -25F too for plowing my driveway.
Any ideas for keeping my quad happy for years to come?
Thanks,
Ian

Still have the Kingquad and it seems to like RT6 5W40 well enough. A tractor does the real heavy lifting now but the kingquad still earns it keep.