In case anyone needs to use a non-fouler, here is why I chose the E3 Plug for the non-fouler. See how the standard plug on the left shrouds the electrode but on the right the electrode with the E3 is visible.
How does a modern 5w30 compare to a 1990s 10w30
- Thread starter TallPaul
- Start date
I don’t see where anyone has asked, so I will-is there a LOT of blowby? Like blow off a loose oil cap amount? That would tell you if magical fixes in a can will help or not, as would peeking into the cylinders with a cheap borescope, looking for gouged cylinder walls, or (God forbid), a piston issue…
If I remove the oil cap while the engine is running there is a slight vacuum at the filler hole which I believe is the proper condition. Certainly don't want pressure in the crankcase. Looks super clean in the oil filler (photo posted earlier in this thread), though you don't see much down there because there is a baffle. Maybe we will do a bore scope on that one cylinder. Whatever the problem may be, she runs like a champ!
Except for burning a large amount of oil.
The smoke happens on acceleration, never on a cold start, so likely not the valve guide seals. No pressure in the crankcase, but a slight vacuum at the oil filler hole. PCV screen staying clean, at least for 2800 miles yet. Car seems to have full power, or if not, then these Fox Mustangs in good shape must be rockets. I would think a broken ring or scored cylinder would show up pretty quickly in worsening conditions. What ever the leak down test is going to show is not likely something we are going to open up the engine over. Might do a bore scope just for kicks. Don't know that a compression test will be worth much, either, as it clearly has good compression or it would run poorly, like happened when the plug was fouling. Only thing that makes sense to me is the oil control ring is not doing its job.
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Yes, both of those will be worth. It's going to give you better idea of what's going on and what to focus on.
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As I said, you can do a cylinder balance test, which will tell you if the hole is weak.
Here are the instructions:
From here:
https://www.hotrod.com/how-to/how-t...-trouble-codes-on-a-fox-body-mustang-for-free
No blowby means rings (at least the compression ones) are likely OK. The good thing about the borescope is you should be able to see cylinder wall damage-no damage means that redoing the heads plus piston soaks (& Valvoline Restore and Protect) might take care of it. I’d hate to see the cats on this one!