How does a modern 5w30 compare to a 1990s 10w30

That's bad. Amazing the plug doesn't foul out.
The non-foulers really work.
https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-27615-42006.aspx

Here is the nonfouler. I choose the E3 because the electrode is not shrouded figuring that it is better to have a direct path from the spark to the chamber than the traditional spark plug would have in this device. As I said
I now have about 1300 miles on the E3 plug with no fouling (determined not visually but because the car runs great).
1776956415465.webp
 
How much MaxLife do you have and how many quarts is your sump?
Is that flat-tappet cam engine?
Actually not as much as I thought. I saw three jugs but one is down to only 2 quarts remaining. So I have 12 qts of the Maxlife 5w30. I also have two quarts of Meijer High Mileage 10w30 which I was not going to put into the Mustang unless I knew it is as good, well maybe the last makeup in the fall when the weather is cooler. So with the Meijer, I have 14 quarts. And I have 3 qts of 10w30. So total 17 qts available. My motorhome runs 5w30 but it has some issues (generator won't start, in dash AC needs repair, hole in roof) so probably won't need any oil for that for a long time.

Fill is 5 quarts with filter change.

The 1992 Mustang is roller cam so no need for zddp boost.
 
Valvoline Restore and Protect isn't going to do much for the oil consumption. Those 302 engines are known to wear valve guides and valve guide seals. @OVERKILL is much more knowledgeable on those engines.
I don't know that the valve guides are an issue. Wouldn't that cause a puff on start up after it leaks down the guides after sitting? That does not happen. It is always on acceleration, which to me suggests rings, but since it has great power, it must only be the oil control ring, and primarily that one cylinder. No other cylinder has fouled. The smoke is focused on the left tailpipe too.
 
Ah! Well, that would explain it! Glad he came back.
Thanks, As I recall there was a major overhall of the BITOG site and a convoluted process to get your account transferred over and I never got around to it. Also I lost my oil fanaticism so had less incentive to dig back in. Glad to be back anyway because there is a whole lot more here than just motor oil to discuss. Before I left I think I might have been in the top 10 or so on post count, but now I am way down.
 
It is always on acceleration, which to me suggests rings, but since it has great power, it must only be the oil control ring, and primarily that one cylinder.
Valvoline Restore and Protect will definitely helps any oil control rings. How many oil changes do you have with it?
I would definitely use only Valvoline Restore and Protect in that engine and use MaxLife in another vehicle or give it to a friend.
 
Last edited:
I find it hilarious that nobody ever suggests doing a leakdown test to determine if it is rings. Just FYI, dumping a teaspoon of oil down a cylinder and doing a compression test is a bs test. It will artifically inflate numbers on practically any engine regardless of health.

If you're eating a quart every 300 miles it's probably something in the valve train. Compression test coupled with a leakdown test should narrow it down and if it doesn't then it needs to come apart to determine why. This is assuming emissions stuff is good like PCV not plugged, etc.
 
I find it hilarious that nobody ever suggests doing a leakdown test to determine if it is rings. Just FYI, dumping a teaspoon of oil down a cylinder and doing a compression test is a bs test. It will artifically inflate numbers on practically any engine regardless of health.

If you're eating a quart every 300 miles it's probably something in the valve train. Compression test coupled with a leakdown test should narrow it down and if it doesn't then it needs to come apart to determine why. This is assuming emissions stuff is good like PCV not plugged, etc.
A quart in less than 300 miles is severe consumption. No oil will fix that and suggestions of futzing with the winter rating is laughable. The only thing that might help is using a -50 grade, and at that level of consumption I would doubt it makes much difference.

That engine needs a rebuild.
 
A quart in less than 300 miles is severe consumption. No oil will fix that and suggestions of futzing with the winter rating is laughable. The only thing that might help is using a -50 grade, and at that level of consumption I would doubt it makes much difference.

That engine needs a rebuild.
This is BITOG, bud. Valvoline Restore and Protect cured my baldness and fixed the pitting on my valve seats.
 
I don't know that the valve guides are an issue. Wouldn't that cause a puff on start up after it leaks down the guides after sitting? That does not happen. It is always on acceleration, which to me suggests rings, but since it has great power, it must only be the oil control ring, and primarily that one cylinder. No other cylinder has fouled. The smoke is focused on the left tailpipe too.

That's the general rule. Smoke on startup or deceleration is valve guides/seals. Smoke on acceleration is generally rings.
 
Valvoline Restore and Protect will definitely helps any oil control rings. How many oil changes do you have with it?
I would definitely use only Valvoline Restore and Protect in that engine and use MaxLife in another vehicle or give it to a friend.
I do think the Valvoline Restore and Protect helped. I ran it last summer about 10 quarts between initial 5qt fill and make-up oil. But I think the Amsoil engine flush helped a lot too. Before my wife would complain of the stink in the garage and I would leave the garage door open for a long time after parking it. This year after the Amsoil flush I just shut the door and she has not complained at all. Interesting though is when i put the Valvoline Restore and Protect in it left a kind of sweet smell or something, can't remember for sure, but it was unique. I wish Valvoline would put the RP of the Valvoline Restore and Protect in a pint additive bottle, but maybe it has to be a whole package to work.
 
That's the general rule. Smoke on startup or deceleration is valve guides/seals. Smoke on acceleration is generally rings.
Yep and it has only and alway been on acceleration, except as I said back in 2023 it would be smoking at a stop light. That is gone. I think between the Valvoline Restore and Protect last year and the Amsoil engine flush this spring, things are a lot better, though the consumption has not changed. Back in 2023 I also tried Rislone Ring Seal/Smoke Repair to no avail, and then added Rislone Engine Treatment which is supposed to free sticky rings etc. Not sure that did any good either.
 
Back
Top Bottom