I like using them because they don’t have to be tended to like a dehumidifier especially if you are away from home (vacation etc.)
Won't cause a fire either. I always wondered if a gas tank or something leaks, if the place will go boom as soon as something like the fridge turns on.I like using them because they don’t have to be tended to like a dehumidifier especially if you are away from home (vacation etc.)
Plus - just dump the juice where? City sewer OK, But septic??? Yard??A dehumidifier can easily take a gallon of water out of the air everyday which I don't think damp rid could do day after day without adding up to a lot of money.
They have a container you empty or connect a hose. The container fills up daily thoughPlus - just dump the juice where? City sewer OK, But septic??? Yard??
I was referring to the Damp Rid juices, isn't some of the hygroscopic chemical in the fluid/water/condensate?They have a container you empty or connect a hose. The container fills up daily though
Once the product inside the container absorbs moisture to its capacity, you put the lid back on and throw it away. They also have refillable containers where you can buy the crystals separately. Damprid says their product is environmentally safe but i wouldn’t dump any of the captured liquid on my favorite shrubs as they say it’s a liquid brine, which of course has high salinity.I was referring to the Damp Rid juices, isn't some of the hygroscopic chemical in the fluid/water/condensate?
Vapor barrier takes many forms, and is effective only if the correct form for your location is employed. First step is to make a determination by using a database like found on US Dept of Energy website. In general, hot humid climates require the barrier to be on the outside wall and the opposite for Cold or cool climates. Installation methods and material choices will take a serious time commitment and study, but to not get it correct will be a costly mistake. It ain't cheap, especially retrofit.That’s insulation. A vapor barrier is a plastic sheet stapled tightly to all the joists to keep the outside air from entering the inside.
It looks like this
View attachment 199909
I'm in the south on the gulf coast. Around here in houses if you put insulation up against the roof you'll get mold, so they put it in the ceiling joists and allow the attic to get up to 180 degrees, but with that being said they put insulation up against the roof in metal buildingsVapor barrier takes many forms, and is effective only if the correct form for your location is employed. First step is to make a determination by using a database like found on US Dept of Energy website. In general, hot humid climates require the barrier to be on the outside wall and the opposite for Cold or cool climates. Installation methods and material choices will take a serious time commitment and study, but to not get it correct will be a costly mistake. It ain't cheap, especially retrofit.
Attics are an additional set of variables. There's two basic kinds of attics; vented and non-vented. Vast majority are vented and a moisture barrier isn't needed at all on the inside. But a good improvement for vented attics is to seal the conditioned space from the attic by use of a air barrier affixed to the attic floor. This makes cost to cool less and increases comfort. The attic meanwhile will vent better since now your return air isn't sucking hot air into the cooled space, reducing pressure in the attic.I'm in the south on the gulf coast. Around here in houses if you put insulation up against the roof you'll get mold, so they put it in the ceiling joists and allow the attic to get up to 180 degrees, but with that being said they put insulation up against the roof in metal buildings
There's more to it than that. I have climate control and can have it at 28 percent humidity and still have condensation dripping off the insulation from the ceiling.the single most important thing you can do is a moisture barrier under the concrete slab, other than that, climate control is the only way I know
there must be some point where there is a big temperature differential, or air flow....humidity and temperature change does it.There's more to it than that. I have climate control and can have it at 28 percent humidity and still have condensation dripping off the insulation from the ceiling.
My roof does it in the morning when the sun heats it back up. Usually when it's around 40 or so and the dew is all over everything. I guess I messed up and didn't put a vapor barrier on, because the rockwool I used said it wasn't needed. Haven't seen anything regarding that now. They changed that statement real quick lolthere must be some point where there is a big temperature differential, or air flow....humidity and temperature change does it.