How do you guys sample your oil between changes?

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My ideal way would be to have some sort of valve plumbed into the pressure side of the oiling system, and I could turn the engine on, make sure it was fully warmed up, and just slightly open this valve enough to fill pu the cup and then reseal the valve.

Have any of you guys done this?
 
See one of the Amsoil boys on this board.

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i would say use the fumoto valve or something similar to the pic above. but if that earls valve has a locking mechanism then it should be fine too.
 
I use the Blackstone all-metal (well, almost all-metal) pump. Looks almost exactly like the pic Al posted, except the pumping cylinder looks a little longer. Same effect though. Using these is very, very easy in most cars. Get the oil hot, shut off, pull the stick, insert the tube, pump, and that's it. If you're working fast and carefully, you could do the whole thing in sixty seconds. I usually suck out a couple bottles full and discard them just to make sure that the end of the tube didn't catch any crud on the way down (thus theoretically dirtying the first sample).

Very easy, very recommended.
 
Well I am planning on adding an oil gauge, so I may try to find a distribution block that allows me to plumb into the hole for the idiot light on the dash, and hook in the stock sensor, my gauge sensor, and then some sort of valve like the Earl's.
 
Fumoto valve scares me...I tried one and could not sleep. Had to put wire around the lever so I could get some
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The Earls would be the same thing...No
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Don't really like the tube down the dip stick idea..
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So, I say waste a 1/4 qt and pull that drain plug...get dirty and put it back in...or...drain/sample at different miles and find the right OIC for your application.
 
i was thinking the same thing about the valves lcm. the fumoto says it has a locking valve or something like that. there are too many what ifs for me.
 
They had to pay more for insurance because the lever lifted at 60 miles and hour and the engine lost all oil?

All kidding aside, I ran the valve on my Peterbilt for many miles...I just had to wire the lever down for peace of mind.
 
Posted by LargeCarMan:
quote:

Don't really like the tube down the dip stick idea..

So, I say waste a 1/4 qt and pull that drain plug...get dirty and put it back in...or...drain/sample at different miles and find the right OIC for your application.

Why not, it deposits the cleanest possible sample right into the bottle. All you have to do is screw the lid on. No, you don't have to discard 1/4 quart, but you can. I've also just poured it back into the oil filler. Either way, since I run my engines slightly above the full mark, I'm not worried about it. I can sample any time I want to, from above, without worrying about compromising the integrity of my oil drain plug. Sure, you can do "midterms" with a Fumoto, but you still have to get underneath. The only "hassle" is keeping the tube clean. I rinse it with a shot of WD-40, which quickly dries and has shown no indication of contaminating later samples. So, what's not to like???
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Regardless of what you choose, don't spend that much money on the Earl's valve. Way too much ..especially when you add the handling charge.

You can probably get this cheaper somewhere else...

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4793K46 Page 428 of McMaster-Carr

Thread a 1/8" pipe plug in the end of it when you're done sampling and sleep well knowing that even if some stray cat manages to flip the lever ..nothing can happen.
 
ekpolk, winter humidity in the dipstick tube is why I would be concerned with this method. If you can clean the inside good enough why not. A 22 cal swab might work?

Gary Allan, this is my kind of style and would allow me too sleep well. But a wire on the Fumo valve worked too.
 
Fram makes a oil drain system that replaces the pan plug,its called a Fram sure drain.I have one on my truck and work great ,no mess and can start or stop oil flow anytime.
 
LCM:

You should, of course, use whatever makes you comfortable. That said, I don't see any indications from any of our UOA that moisture in the dipstick tube has been an issue for anyone posting oil samples here. My purging method would pretty much eliminate the problem, as the sample would be pulled from deep within the sump after any water on the tube tip had been flushed away.
 
Gauge adapters should work. Most vendors have them.

Also look on page 1433 at Grainger.com

The teflon and vicon internals sound appealing for the price. Keep in mind that you have to do a song and dance to get Grainger to sell to you. They don't favor consumers. I just put G. A. Mechanical in my address
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Gary Allan I really like your idea.

I just downloaded the repair manuals for my Toyota so I'll be figuring out the right size & thread pitch. Unfortunately they are probably metric which will cost more.
 
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