How do YOU check used cars??

[MrWideTires]

If I buy a used car, I preferably buy it from someone that has taken care of it, a car enthusiast.. I do not mind if the car has been raced.

But not any car enthusiast, I'd rather get a car from someone in BITOG, grassroots motorsports, or the car lounge, than any other enthusiast. I like to see maintenance records, what lubricants were used, and just the way the car drives tells a lot, the tires... someone that has chinese linglongs probably doesn't care as much as someone that paid for Michelins.
That's my opinion... and I hate new cars. Tire pressure monitoring systems, traction control, stability control, they are heavy, and even though they have so much more power.. they are not getting faster or more fuel efficient.

I'd MUCH rather have a 1989 3-series than a 2003 3-series... I'm not gonna buy a brand new car anytime soon, I'll rather have a well-maintained old car, so let me hear what you check in your used cars!

 

[Herz]

I always check the oil, trans fluid, brake fluid, clutch, Antifreeze quality, differential fluid, and I like to test drive it on the highway.

I also like to hop down and take a look for leaks or what kind of oil filter they used.

Also taking it to a mechanic for them to check it out is not a bad idea either.

I'd also do some reasearch on the car before hand and quiz the owner on what oil he uses and what filters he uses on the car (after you have seen the filter under it.)

 

[Jason8691]

I will check all the fluids, what kind of filters are used, and evidence of cleaned up leaks. Its kind of hard since they usually steam clean them from top to bottom and change some of the fluids. I will listen closely to the engine, see if the tranny is slow to engage and if there are any weird noises. Then Ill take it to a mechanic to have it checked by a pro.

 

[PT1]

I take mine to an independent mechanic I know who checks the entire car for $130-150 depending on if you want an oil UOA. If I want a very detailed check where the do compression testing on the engine and UOA the engine & trans it is about $240. They go over everything and test every system. The $240 check takes about 3.5 hours.

 

[Cutehumor]

Originally Posted By: PT1
I take mine to an independent mechanic I know who checks the entire car for $130-150 depending on if you want an oil UOA. If I want a very detailed check where the do compression testing on the engine and UOA the engine & trans it is about $240. They go over everything and test every system. The $240 check takes about 3.5 hours.


if you spend $240 for an inspection, hope 9 out of 10 times you buy the car.

 

[demarpaint]

Private party I ask for the vin # and run a Carfax before I even see the car, they're far from perfect but do help. Then when I see the car I start with a visual inspection, check for body work, then mechanical items, fluids etc, a test drive, and maint records. I haven't bought a lemon yet. If I have any doubts I'll double check with a mechanic cost is usually $50 or less. If I detect any kind of hesitation or poor idle quality, a miss, I'll pass.

 

[Boomer]

Also, run a magnetic strip (plastic) over the body panels. If you hit a spot of Bondo, you'll know it right away.

 

[qship1996]

Tires say a LOT about the previous owners mentality towards spending money maintaining their car....if they were so cheap to purchase inexpensive tires{ Coopers/Nanking/Nexen/kumblo/etc, they most likely were not the type to spend much on preventative maintenance either

 

[aquariuscsm]

Smell the oil on the dipstick and the tranny fluid to make sure it doesn`t smell burnt.

 

[JTK]

It's been a long time since I've bought a used car from a private party, but those that I have, I just gave them a quick inside/out look-over, poke around under the hood, quick test drive and that's it. We're not talking super high dollar vehicles here. The majority of my used purchases are from large new car dealerships. They can't afford to pull a fast one on you. I've never been burned. For those of you who take a vehicle somewhere to be "inspected", you must have dealt with very patient sellers. If I was the seller, there's no way I'd deal with the hassle. Buy it or walk.

Joel

 

[CROWNVIC4LIFE]

Originally Posted By: JTK
It's been a long time since I've bought a used car from a private party, but those that I have, I just gave them a quick inside/out look-over, poke around under the hood, quick test drive and that's it. We're not talking super high dollar vehicles here. The majority of my used purchases are from large new car dealerships. They can't afford to pull a fast one on you. I've never been burned. For those of you who take a vehicle somewhere to be "inspected", you must have dealt with very patient sellers. If I was the seller, there's no way I'd deal with the hassle. Buy it or walk.

Joel


I would walk...I will not buy any car without having it checked out first...Whether it be 6 months old to 10 years old its going to be checked out first no matter what...So far not one person ever had a issue with me or anyone in my family checking out the car first...If they do have a issue that would be a red flag for me.

Some of them took up to 2 hours to be checked out as the mechanic was a distance from where the car was being sold at.

 

[ls1mike]

When I bought the WS6, I bought it from a large dealership. It had 19,000 miles on it. I took it out and hammered the dog poop out of it. Took it back and brought it home that day.

When I bought the 1 ton...15 years ago. The guy had every service record and it was immaculate. It wsas hooked up to his 5th wheel. We took it for about an hour drive with the trailer attached. Still looks the same today. Runs just as good.

 

[cousincletus]

Originally Posted By: MrWideTires
If I buy a used car, I preferably buy it from someone that has taken care of it, a car enthusiast.. I do not mind if the car has been raced.

But not any car enthusiast, I'd rather get a car from someone in BITOG, grassroots motorsports, or the car lounge, than any other enthusiast. I like to see maintenance records, what lubricants were used, and just the way the car drives tells a lot, the tires... someone that has chinese linglongs probably doesn't care as much as someone that paid for Michelins.
That's my opinion... and I hate new cars. Tire pressure monitoring systems, traction control, stability control, they are heavy, and even though they have so much more power.. they are not getting faster or more fuel efficient.

I'd MUCH rather have a 1989 3-series than a 2003 3-series... I'm not gonna buy a brand new car anytime soon, I'll rather have a well-maintained old car, so let me hear what you check in your used cars!


If you don't mind if it's been raced, buy a rental car (haha). I check for crash damage, slop in the drivetrain when I put from reverse to drive, ck trans dipstick for burnt smell, uneven tire wear, obvious jackleg type repairs, mods (I stay away from a modded car). FWIW I don't ask for maint records, as I don't keep them myself but am very picky about maintenance.

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: Boomer
Also, run a magnetic strip (plastic) over the body panels. If you hit a spot of Bondo, you'll know it right away.


LOL I do the same thing, people think I'm crazy. With a good eye body work is real easy to spot though.

 

[ls1mike]

Originally Posted By: cousincletus

If you don't mind if it's been raced, buy a rental car (haha). I check for crash damage, slop in the drivetrain when I put from reverse to drive, ck trans dipstick for burnt smell, uneven tire wear, obvious jackleg type repairs, mods (I stay away from a modded car). FWIW I don't ask for maint records, as I don't keep them myself but am very picky about maintenance.


I think...in general, Racers, like myself take better care of their cars then the average person.
My Trans Am has somewhere around 600 1/4 mile passes on it with spray. I ensure everything is better than par.
I would bet it is better maintained then the average car you see on the street day to day. My car has TONS of mods and functions just fine as a daily driver It has made two cross crounty trips with a Ford 9 inch, Mcleod Twin disk Clutch, Cam (228 230 .571 .591 at 112 LSA) intake, headers, exhaust and still averages 26 mpg on the Highway.

[censored] even the Buick has a shift kit, aftermarket supercharger pulley, CAI, 180 thermostat, Exhaust and runs 14.20s. I am absolutely insane about maintenance on that car because I love it so much.

Just because a car is stock IMHO, dosen't mean it is good.

 

[eljefino]

I look for ANY hacked wires under the hood and in the vicinity of the stereo. Rust, rust, rust.

Try to size up the owner as belonging with the car, if they're an idiot and the cars need simple stuff... I try to buy as-is with problems for cheap on the assumption that even the "good cars" need work.

Check the clock for being the right time... if it's off an hour b/c of savings time I know the car's been not run in a while (or the guys a maroon). If it's completely different the battery's been disco'd. Worth checking the CEL works and I/M monitors are ready.

Bald tires are a nice negotiating point, I get used ones for pennies so they aren't a real issue. Stuck open thermostats and bald tires seem to shake loser cars loose in the winter when they don't defrost and get stuck in the snow.

This isn't a "how to pick the perfect car" response... but rather how I do it.

 

[Captain_Klink]

1. Start it with the engine COLD. see what happens.
2. Look underneath very carefully, there must be no rust. ANYTHING mechanical can be fixed, but rust in the seams can never be repaired, and the car will die an early death.
3. Take it out for a good run, it should track straight.
4. Take it in the parking lot, and drive some hard figure eights.
5. Take off the oil cap with the engine running to check for blowby.
6. Make sure that you are buying a vehicle that was leased, with lots of miles on it. that way you know the maintenance has been up to date, and if there are lots of miles, usually that means highway driven (equals very little actual wear), and vehicle not likely to suffer from driving just short trips.

If all of the above is followed, then you will have an excellent vehicle, that should be cheap, and will last at least another 10 years. After you buy it, flush and refill all fluids - brake, tranny, differential, etc.,

 

[dishdude]

As mentioned above, I prefer private party one owner cars. Look for leaks, new parts, a lot of body panels have the VIN number on them so you can see if they have been replaced, make sure the body gaps are even and line up. Check the fluids obviously for color and level.

Example - I looked at a truck a while ago and saw a new radiator was installed which prompted me to look into the cooling system further. As it warned up a little the coolant in the overflow tank started bubbling so I figured the old radiator leaked, engine overheated and the headgasket was now leaking compression gasses into the cooling system - pass

If you can't find anything wrong with it, it is always nice to take it to a shop and have them put it on a lift. It is tough to check for worn ball joints, tie rod ends, etc when it isn't up in the air. However, most of these things will show up on the test drive if you are car savy.

Also watch for people that buy and sell cars right away. I really don't ask why someone is selling the car as they are going to lie anyway most likely. However if they are a "curbstoner" - someone who buys and sells cars as a dealer w/o a license I run.

 

[ls1mike]

Originally Posted By: Captain_Klink
1.
2. Look underneath very carefully, there must be no rust. ANYTHING mechanical can be fixed, but rust in the seams can never be repaired, and the car will die an early death.

I think that may be the key. I don't mind replacing even an engine or tranny, if the price is right.
Body work and body repair is an art, one that I have not mastered.

 

[AcuraTech]

Meh. I just kick the tires and see how nice the stereo sounds. That's the best way to do it, right?