How do YOU check used cars??

[PT1]

Originally Posted By: Cutehumor
Originally Posted By: PT1
I take mine to an independent mechanic I know who checks the entire car for $130-150 depending on if you want an oil UOA. If I want a very detailed check where the do compression testing on the engine and UOA the engine & trans it is about $240. They go over everything and test every system. The $240 check takes about 3.5 hours.


if you spend $240 for an inspection, hope 9 out of 10 times you buy the car.


I only inspect this method if the purchase has been negotiated and is contingent upon the car passing or the seller repairing any issues they find.

 

[tonycarguy]

If it's a 1-2 year old low-mileage car under warranty and from a franchised dealer, I just look it over for repaint or body work. Test drive too of course. That's all.

If it's a private party I do the above plus look for leaks under the hood. I don't spend a lot of time.

Call me lucky but out of the several used cars I've bought, only one had more than 1 serious problem. I've saved many tens of thousands of dollars and have spent about 1000 on repairs. Big win.

 

[GMFan]

When I bought my vehicle, what sold me was the guy had EVERY single receipt from every oil change and maintenance service.

He also put Pirelli tires and gave it a full tune-up, coolant flush, power steering flush, new battery, plugs, wires etc a few thousand miles before he decided to sell it. (Had to sell it suddenly as his Dad who was too old to drive gave him a newer car).

I took it on a test drive, and checked the oil. Poked around under the hood....that's about it. He was a really nice guy and his home was immaculate (even though he was single and middle-aged).

Generally, if you have a good feeling about the seller they most likely took care of the vehicle.

 

[Falcon_LS]

First I start off with a visual inspection of the exterior:

1. Ask for any service/maintenance history available on the vehicle
2. Inspect the paint and finish, check for body ripples and paint that doesn't match
3. Make sure the body lines match on both sides of the vehicle
4. Check undercarriage (fluid leaks?), under the doors, etc. for any rust
5. Make sure door, panel, hood and trunk gaps are even
6. Open and close all doors, trunk and hood
7. Tires and wheels
8. Pads and rotors (if visible through the wheels)

Next I move over to the engine compartment:

1. Check to see if the engine compartment is clean
2. Check for any visible leaks
2. Engine oil
2. ATF
3. Coolant
4. Power steering fluid
5. Brake fluid
6. Belts

Then I move to the interior:

1. Upholstery and general interior condition...making sure nothing is damaged and no excessive wear. Generally the first things I look at are the steering wheel, gear shifter and brake pedal.
2. Electrics (windows, locks, defroster, power seats, mirrors, wipers, horn etc.)
3. Odometer tampered with?
4. Check exterior lighting

I also take an OBD-II reader with me, so I check for anything unusual before starting the engine. Finally I ask somebody I've taken with me to start the engine and check for signs of exhaust smoke (blue/black/white). Then I move back to the engine compartment to check for anything unusual (e.g. timing chain noise, rough idling engine, etc.). Couple of last minute checks there:

1. Check to make sure all the gauges work (tach, oil pressure, etc.)
2. Air conditioning
3. Make sure interior switches all light up correctly

Last step is the test drive and I check the following:

1. Acceleration
2. Braking (power, noise, vibration) inc. parking brake
3. Steering response/alignment/tracking
4. Transmission shifting
5. Wind noise?
6. Vibration
7. Suspension (bouncy? noisy?)
8. Rattles and squeaks
9. Cruise control
10. Anything left out (parking sensors, etc.)

If it's worth getting professionally inspected, I take it to a trusted mechanic to thoroughly check - compression test, differential fluid, etc.