And yet 700+HP cars that spec the grade like the SRT 6.2SC equipped vehicles call for an oil that's pretty mediocre, and had previously spec'd Mobil 1 0W-40. Mobil 1 0W-40 was also good enough for AMG, the GM Corvette Race Program cars, Porsche 24hr teams at LeMans and Sebring...etc. While HPL's 0W-40 stays in grade better (not sure about the others), there's no denying the pedigree of this lubricant.
Makes sense and reinforces my belief that they are the best choice in the consumer space that we have access to. The OAI/Polaris kits are also easy to get.
0w-40 Mobil 1 works great in my Toro lawn mower/Briggs and Stratton engine nice easy pulls, no more ticking.
I am naive. What do the SRT vehicles call for?
I tried a lot of different oils on track. Mobil 1 0W40 is only one I have ever ran to 300f and still did 5k OCI before I installed oil cooler. Never crossed my mind that after I cooled off oil a bit and ran it again to 300f I will have oil related failure. I never had any doubts about this oil, ever. Otherwise I would not push car so hard after it went to limp mode first time.
$4 per quart means there’s $20 of product (blender cost) in the jug. If this is really the case, then between mobil and Walmart, someone is subsidizing my oil changes even before the Mobil 1 rebates.You’re pretty close for a 0w20 / 5w20 / 5w30 full synthetic.
When you get into the more exotic - 0w8 / 0w16, 0w30 / 0w40 / 5w40 - it gets significantly more expensive. Because there’s less of the base oils and the additive package used. There is a huge economy of scale for the “standard” products of 0w20 to 5w30. Because there’s just so many gallons there.
In the big picture of things, once you go out of those grades, the economy of scale falls off quickly. And things get much, much more expensive to produce. My napkin maffwithout giving away too much publicly, you’re off by about double on 0w40. Different base oils, different additives, different tankage, packaging lines, etc.
If 0w40 got as popular as say… 5w30, it would certainly drop in price. But 0w20 to 5w30 outsells 0w40, by about 100,000 gallons to 1. (Again, napkin maff. It’s a lot. There’s very little demand for 0w40.)
If I could add :: In which there are a handful of oil analysis firms who are 3rd partying off of Polaris Labs. You just have to look for their classic description form and or Horizon download site for retrieval of the analysis to spot Polaris Labs.
Second sentence on the back. Essentially just because they meet a specific requirement doesn't mean its going to run clean where the boutiques will. Its easy to get a car to specify a spec or weight especially if they are throwing money at them to do so not to mention these engines are way more robust and they maintain them to a point that even I cant phathom.
Used to be PUP SRT 0w40
Oh please.
Triangulation fraud?
HPL has great products for sure, but they are on thin ice talking about other oils meeting spec. They also are pretty enthusiastic about building space between their oils and the vague category of “commodity” products. Are they including PUP, or the cult oil Valvoline Restore and Protect in this? Fact is that if you use those oils, or the Mobil 1 of your choice, 5k intervals, and your car is not a sludgy, low tension piston ringed heap, you will be hard put to make an economic argument for HPL. I am too cheap to buy it, but would still love to have that stuff in the sump.
You can Google for more, but briefly people list items for sale on eBay. You pay them. They take your cash and keep it. They use a stolen and functional credit card and order the item to be shipped to you. You get the item, they keep the money, and someone else gets the bill. Likely the stolen credit card owner sees it's stolen, reports it, and they get their money back and Walmart or the credit card company are holding the bag.
I think that's the important part right there. It's used to be a small minority of engines would burn oil after a while with premium OTS synthetic oil 5k changes. Many of Toyota's older engines are running around in war torn third world countries with very minimal maintenance without issues. Now it just seems it's more and more common that engines get stuck rings. Basically everything at Hyundai/Kia. Many/most Subarus? Many/most Ford Ecoboost engines? All Honda J-series engines. The list goes on. Seems like everything is turbo GDI these days. Point being, it's not a rarity any more. I think drivers of these cars should make strong consideration to a boutique or Valvoline Restore and Protect from the beginning. To those who balk at the price, first of all, doing a change with Amsoil/HPL yourself is still cheaper than going to the Grease Monkey/Take 5/Jiffy Lube or the dealer. It doesn't require expensive tools, and there are countless tutorials on Youtube. Secondly, you should compare the marginal cost of going from a top of the line synthetic at Walmart to AMSOIL Signature Series. For me, it's $25. That is 2.7% of my total fuel cost over 5000 miles. I'm making the case to myself for why it makes sense to run boutiques.
Thank you for this career advice!
Fair enough
. From the beginning I just wanted to see it from a different perspective so I chose the other end of the spectrum. Plus some of the boutique oils are donating members so I thought 
I would bring them to attention of an audience.
See those periodically on eBay - but the only lube I buy there is ZF Lifeguard 8 - and it’s been coming individually wrapped - looks legit - and have done two changes with the ATF … (not many others are green either) …
We know how those oils perform, as well as how OTS oils perform.Fair enough
