It's roughly half and half PAO/GTL base. Under 11% refined mineral oil as of last SDS. So really it's "mostly" synthetic with a cocktail of refined mineral oil mixed in for solubility, seal swell, etc.Is it because it is no longer "fully synthetic" but just another highly refund mineral base with a cocktail of synthetic additive?
How Do they Make Mobil 1 0w40 FS So Cheap?
- Thread starter FranklinJL
- Start date
SammyChevelleTypeS3
$50 site donor 2023
So, K. What would you do?
How would you handle owning one of these newer diluter engines? Would you trust keeping it? I plan to keep ours for a good while it is in such good shape. Runs and drives great even with that tiny sewing machine sized GDI-T engine I have complained about since I found out about those engines.
The main down side for me is having to do such short oci because I absolutely will not go by the Honda OLM that goes off believe it or not close to the 10,000mi mark which to me is absolutely nuts. Maybe they want to sell folks more new ones?What oils would you run in a tiny turbo engine like many cars have that end up with fuel in the oil before time for an oci? I have been using 0w20 + 0w30 to attempt to compensate for the dilution between oci. So far it seems to be working ok with not any real concerning level rises on the dip stick.
I realize this has been beat to death but I value the opinion of you and a couple other long time BITOGs here who post regular.
If you rather not get started into this long kicked around/discussed detail , I get it. Just wondering your opinion once again.
I use 504 00 oil in my Tiguan and go only 5000 miles or so between changes. But I keep my vehicles for a long time, or at least I try to do so.So, K. What would you do?
How would you handle owning one of these newer diluter engines? Would you trust keeping it? I plan to keep ours for a good while it is in such good shape. Runs and drives great even with that tiny sewing machine sized GDI-T engine I have complained about since I found out about those engines.
What oils would you run in a tiny turbo engine like many cars have that end up with fuel in the oil before time for an oci? I have been using 0w20 + 0w30 to attempt to compensate for the dilution between oci. So far it seems to be working ok with not any real concerning level rises on the dip stick.
I realize this has been beat to death but I value the opinion of you and a couple other long time BITOGs here who post regular.
If you rather not get started into this long kicked around/discussed detail , I get it. Just wondering your opinion once again.
I’ve never seen the level rise on my dipstick so that’s worse than mine.
My experience is that certain GDI parts wear faster over time. Maybe more common on some brands based on what injector rebuilders have told me. This is different than just gunk building up (which you can fix with PEA/gasoline detergents). Wear can cause flow to increase which contributes to dilution.So, K. What would you do?
How would you handle owning one of these newer diluter engines? Would you trust keeping it? I plan to keep ours for a good while it is in such good shape. Runs and drives great even with that tiny sewing machine sized GDI-T engine I have complained about since I found out about those engines.
What oils would you run in a tiny turbo engine like many cars have that end up with fuel in the oil before time for an oci? I have been using 0w20 + 0w30 to attempt to compensate for the dilution between oci. So far it seems to be working ok with not any real concerning level rises on the dip stick.
I realize this has been beat to death but I value the opinion of you and a couple other long time BITOGs here who post regular.
If you rather not get started into this long kicked around/discussed detail , I get it. Just wondering your opinion once again.
It's a giant pain to replace them on most cars, which is why people don't treat it as a wear/maintenance item but once my fuel diluter (Subaru FA20DIT) gets bad enough, I plan to just put new injectors in. Euro-style high viscosity oils are a good bandaid in the meantime.
SammyChevelleTypeS3
$50 site donor 2023
Yes sir. I been the same way for many years.
I love to attempt to keep ours a long time and I try to keep up with all of the predictive / preventive maintenance that they call for. Most folks can not get over how new looking I manage to keep vehicles that many times are over 10-15 years old. Keeping garaged, washed and waxed often and fixing any little things that need attention ASAP has been my game plan that has worked out very well for us.
Now, I can feel/imagine the many eyes roll @ this one
. Long ago I got on this kick where in my spare time I will often read and re-read the entire owner's manuals that come with them. I tell my sons all the time, it does not hurt and will benefit folks to read what they can and learn about one of the largest investments most will purchase other than a home. Our vehicles.Thanks for the input.
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SammyChevelleTypeS3
$50 site donor 2023
I actually feel pretty good about the way I have managed it so far. Since I went to the 3200 to 3500mi oci I no longer see any rise on the dip stick. The HPL motor oil I have used for about a year now seems to have helped to clean out any thing that was in there. The very first 3-4 oci the oil would turn deep dark between changes. The last 2-3 recent oci have shown the oil not turning that deep dark black like in the past. Just changed it this past weekend and the used oil was not looking so dark and did not have the knock you out fuel smell it did when we first got the car and went too long between the first couple oci where I tried to use the Honda OLM. It is certainly set for too many miles for that type of GDI-T engines. I often wonder if any other car manufacturers with the GDI-T engines are having dilution issues. I know for a fact it can not be totally eliminated due to the design and the higher pressures....
I've heard it's more common with manufacturers using continental and hitachi injectors. that certainly reflects how my cars behave, the VW came with continentals and the subaru has hitachis..
CleanSump
Site Donor 2026
Economies of scale. The more they manufacture the more they save by purchasing or self producing raw materials in quantity and producing product in large batches. Until they reach a point that they oversaturate the market and they can't sell the volume they produce at a profitable point. When supply exceeds demand they can't continue to manufacture in such large quantities and make money.
Among the consumer-level used oil analysis companies, who do you think among them offers the best analysis?
I don’t regularly use this specific oil or this brand. Mobil 1 pioneered common use and marketing of synthetic oil for the consumer, and has never once yielded its leadership position, even though direct competitors and upmarket and downmarket choices occur. On the direct question, I am willing to bet that there is plenty of margin baked into this brand at its prices, including a meaningful retail markup. The price itself is driven by market forces, and many will pay a premium for FS and for the brand. All that said, I don’t view the price as out of alignment with competitive offerings, and agree with your club members that it is a good choice for their presumably modified cars.
I actually sometimes marvel at the amount of utility that even boutique brands deliver for their presumably modified price. For $24, you have this specialty chemical that will lubricate, hold dirt, prevent wear, transfer heat, clean piston deposits and do so for more than 10,000 miles.(not for me, 5k max) and at an operating temperature range of more than 250 degrees F.
HPL is a great choice, but the Mobil choice dominates on value.
You sure packaging cost $6? A gallon of milk is $4 and even if you double that for oil the packaging is likely at most $2.
SammyChevelleTypeS3
$50 site donor 2023
I was browsing along the Walmart Auto section earlier today. Did not need a thing and did not buy anything there. I did notice along the lines you mention about Mobil 1. There on the shelves along with several other flavors I noticed a Euro / 0w30 or 0w40 ESP for less than $30. I have to agree what many have shared. One can not find , really any oil considered better for that type of product and that very fair pricing.
It's only a 40wt for a very short time, if I am making 700hp I am going with something more advanced like Torco, Redline, High Performance Lubricants or Amsoil.
edyvw
$50 site donor 2026
Probably Polaris.
I literally looked at my price sheet. And went bulk / tote / drum / BiB / 5 quart / quarts.
Yes, I’m sure it’s about $6 for 5 quart jugs. They’re expensive. A lot of plastic. Not every filling line can do it. Expensive to handle. A lot of loss.
Thank you.
https://polarislabs.com/order-kits/
It doesn't look like they advertise prices. Anyone know how much they cost?
Is this the same lab that Oil Analyzers / Amsoil uses?
Almost every major used Polaris as their standard testing program. Chevron, P66, Citgo, Shell, etc.
There is also ALS out there, but again like Polaris. I think they’re almost all large commercial / industrial based.
Eurofins / Testoil.com is another good one. They do let individuals and small fleets in.
We use predictive maintenance, theoillab.com for our third party testing and ISO particle testing certification.
I would probably say eurofins / testoil is about the best, easily accessed for individuals & small fleets. They offer a lot of extremely comprehensive tests. And have a pretty nice data base online that will track metrics for you, assuming you fill the data on the sample out correctly.
Do any of them provide FTIR? e
Yes, they're a private label for Polaris.
Yes, test oil and everyone else should at least do basic FTIR. Testoil also does turbine oil FTIR.
If you really, really want to foot the bill, they also do analytical ferrography.
But they also do oil filters analysis. However, again, it’s all for added cost. Is it worth it? That’s up to you.
