How come ac lifespan is so short on cars?

[D60]

I was told by HVAC (residential) techs it's almost surely vibration in vehicles.

And yeah, letting them sit is the kiss of death IME. Better to use the system or leaks seem to develop.

It's not lost on me these two things seem to conflict (vibration vs sitting unused) but I think we can all understand it.

 

[The motor guy]

My 2018 F150 has never really blown cold. I stuck a gauge on it last year and it was a few PSI low, but I really didn't want to spend 50 bucks on a can of the Y1234 stuff, I was pricing batteries and got on of those 20% off coupons so I broke down and bought one. It struggled to keep up on the first day it hit 85 outside and was only blowing about 58f out of the vents. I added about $20 bucks worth of Y1234, she's down to 44-45f out of the vents.

The dang seal didn't seal up on the Y1234 and I lost the other ~1/2 can. Not amused. I don't think it's leaking, it was probably low from the factory (I bought it with ~20k on it)

Mine never really blows cold on fresh air mode. Was like that since new. It would cut out when stopped at a stop light and yes the fan worked. Blows cold on recirculate mode

 

[MCompact]

I must be an outlier. Since 2005 I've only had one car require a freon top-off.- and my 1995 E36 3 Series needed a new compressor clutch after 24 years, but that's been it.

 

[Astro14]

It's like 8 years on the dot I get a freon leak. Usually the evaporator on the dodge. I added a can of freon last year and that got me through the season. This year I added a small can like 12oz I think and it stayed cold for a month. The truck sat for a week, then the ac wasn't cold after that. I didn't actually fill the system up all the way. Just enough to make it nice and cold out of the vents. I don't really trust those gauges on those cans and dont want to overfill.

I have yet to have a freon leak or AC problem on any of my cars - many of them are over 20 years old.

So, no, AC life isn’t short on the cars I own - in fact, I am impressed by the long, trouble free life.

If you’re filling yours with AC cans and a gauge - stop it and get a shop that knows what they’re doing.

 

[Donald]

Use the AC every week if you can. This might not always be possible if it gets very cold in the winter (the compressor will only work above 32F/0C), but use it at least once a week when possible.

Running the AC regularly does a lot to preserve the system

I haven't had any problems with lifespan, but many newer AC systems are weaker than the old ones due to smaller compressors, shutting off with auto stop/start, hybrids, etc.

Get a can of freon that has UV leak dye in it, run it for awhile, then get out the black light when it's dark, and you might be able to find your leak

I think in a lot of newish cars the AC is often used in the winter automatically to dehumidify.

But using the AC once a month should be enough to get the oil circulating to prevent dried out o-ring.

First of every month:
1) use AC for 5 to 10 minutes
2) use parking brake once or twice

 

[walterjay]

I have been lucky. Never had an ac problem. My 06 F-150 still blowing cold on factory charge.

 

[Kurtatron]

I wonder why they don’t use metal flare type connections. O-rings dry out and get brittle. Soft brass flare fittings never go bad and are easy to reseal if opened up. I think older cars used flare fittings, but not anymore.

Why not?

 

[ProbeGT]

Ice cold AC in my 2003 Jaguar S-Type, AC never serviced.

The 2 Pontiacs/Toyotas (03 and 04) have always had kinda weak AC. Both developed leaks from the Schrader valves (low and high side) a few years ago. I replaced the valves, refilled and they've been good since. All original components. Blow moderately cool at highway speeds but at idle they struggle in the hot TX summers. Same as when cars were new.

 

[dogememe]

Use the AC every week if you can. This might not always be possible if it gets very cold in the winter (the compressor will only work above 32F/0C), but use it at least once a week when possible.

Running the AC regularly does a lot to preserve the system

I haven't had any problems with lifespan, but many newer AC systems are weaker than the old ones due to smaller compressors, shutting off with auto stop/start, hybrids, etc.

Get a can of freon that has UV leak dye in it, run it for awhile, then get out the black light when it's dark, and you might be able to find your leak

Do you think this is better in EVs? It’s an electric compressor. On both of our cars it has a heat pump system so whether you’re heating or cooling you’re using the compressor. Or is it just more likely to wear out sooner?

 

[rszappa1]

My past three Hondas went well over 30000 miles with no issues with the AC...They still had ice cold air...

 

[BrendanC]

2002 silverado with 240k. original everything minus the low side pressure port (common on these models) and freon as i’ve evacuated to recharge by weight. absolute meat locker in the middle of houston summers.

 

[Astro14]

I think in a lot of newish cars the AC is often used in the winter automatically to dehumidify.

But using the AC once a month should be enough to get the oil circulating to prevent dried out o-ring.

First of every month:
1) use AC for 5 to 10 minutes
2) use parking brake once or twice

Not even “newish” cars.

My 1977 Oldsmobile used the AC when the defrost was selected (The physics/chemistry of moisture removal has been understood for a long time).

On my newer cars, well, post 2000 anyway, the AC is engaged, nearly one hundred percent of the time. Don’t worry about specifically engaging the AC on any of them.

But I do set the parking brake every single time to keep that mechanism free.

 

[edyvw]

It's like 8 years on the dot I get a freon leak. Usually the evaporator on the dodge. I added a can of freon last year and that got me through the season. This year I added a small can like 12oz I think and it stayed cold for a month. The truck sat for a week, then the ac wasn't cold after that. I didn't actually fill the system up all the way. Just enough to make it nice and cold out of the vents. I don't really trust those gauges on those cans and dont want to overfill.

2011 VW Tiguan: works like a charm.
2011 BMW: works like a charm.
2009 Pilot: works like a charm (and this one lived 13 years in Vegas).

 

[Capt W]

If you’re filling yours with AC cans and a gauge - stop it and get a shop that knows what they’re doing.

Best response on the topic! Those silly commercials showing clowns servicing their own cars with cans of "A/C Pro" is a real laugher... but at 30-40 bucks a can to gullible consumers it's like printing money.

 

[Owen Lucas]

Compressor on my 05 Scion tC died after 15 years and I believe that was a mechanical issue with the clutch coil. It still held pressure up to that point.

 

[zzyzzx]

It probably doesn't help that the condenser is used as a shield for the radiator.

 

[Kurtatron]

My 1991 Toyota Previa developed a leak at the expansion valve. I think the O-ring went bad, since replacing it with new O-rings solved it. Hasn’t leaked enough to reduce cooling performance in 3 years.

One thing I did though when replacing the o-ring was resealing the compressor. eBay sells these reseal kits for compressors. I did that 3 years ago, and no problems, surprisingly. Most times I shy away from buying car parts on eBay, but I figured the eBay parts would be better than 30 year old seals on the compressors.

 

[brages]

I resealed my compressor on my 97 Ranger with one of those kits. Works well.

I also had to replace a pressure switch and fix a broken blend door. These are probably all common failure points for AC on an old Ford.

The very first car I owned did not have AC. That was, like, 30 years ago. Since then, I refuse to own a car without working air conditioning.

 

[slacktide_bitog]

Do you think this is better in EVs? It’s an electric compressor. On both of our cars it has a heat pump system so whether you’re heating or cooling you’re using the compressor. Or is it just more likely to wear out sooner?

I don't think it matters, since the problems don't come from how the compressor is powered. It's more about getting the oil and freon to circulate and keep the seals lubricated.

 

[brages]

I don't think it matters, since the problems don't come from how the compressor is powered. It's more about getting the oil and freon to circulate and keep the seals lubricated.

I'm not sure, but I think an electric compressor ought to be easier to seal.

Home refrigerant compressors in home ACs and fridges are hermetically sealed, whatever that means. So they don't leak.