How Bad is This?

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5,719
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Atlanta
Originally Posted by Twisted46
Eh that'll buff out... Right.
I hate to be a buzz kill, but the UOA wasn't anything like as concerning as yours, even after it started to knock very slightly. Admittedly I didn't pull the sample from the filter, but still... My advice is get it out and tear into it while there is still a chance you can save some parts...
 

Twisted46

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OH
Duck, I was only joking, I know the crank is probably chewed badly. My hope at this point is that the cylinders are okay. Strangely the engine last ran butter smooth with no ticking or knocks.
 
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5,719
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Atlanta
Yeah I had a good bit of money in that crank and it probably won't turn, it might clean up at 40, but would be unsuitable for the RPM it sees. Hope your luck is better, truly.
 
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Messages
6,566
Location
Wet side WA
Originally Posted by Snagglefoot
By the way, tons of Bittoggers run $35 oil checks and get the usual results: "wear metals look good; next time extend your OCI to xxxx miles and report back " (for another $35 hit).This is one of the first oil analysis I've seen that might actually help you make a useful decision on your engine. Flame suit in and shield in place. smile
LOL seriously mine I got from Rockauto for less than $10 and it isn't required you use on every time you have an OCI?
 

Twisted46

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13
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OH
I'll get pictures tonight. The pan and tray are off and I don't see any immediate issues. Some of the cylinder walls look like they have slight glazing on them. I haven't popped any caps off yet which will be the real tell. The cam lobes I could see look perfect. Fyi picture attached of why I had concern.
 

Twisted46

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OH
Well the pictures speak for themselves. Like I said the cam looks good and the cylinders have a little glazing but nothing major. The crank doesn't look bad under the two caps I pulled. I really wonder where the insane level if iron came from. Either way the engine is coming apart.

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Messages
468
Location
Newport News, VA
The oil analysis shows no water in the oil. I am wondering if your oil is too thick, when its cold. Too thick and the motor not hot, the oil cant flow into the bearings, you mention racing? Is the motor warmed up good and hot before your on it. And do you have to use a 20-50w oil in the winter? Why not use a 5w-40 oil.
 
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7,917
Location
Michigan
Originally Posted by Twisted46
So obviously there is a big problem in the motor with these levels, what do you guys think. VR1 20-50 in a small block chevy used at the track in 20-40 minute sessions over a weekend. Oil looked like gold paint when I drained it so I sent it in for testing. This sample came out of the oil filter, I cut it open with tin snips.
Scariest looking oil analysis I've ever seen. I was expecting to see widespread bearing damage, but was the wiped rod bearing the only one you found? The numbers in the UOA probably are exaggerated because it was taken from the filter. With the aluminum and tin in the sample, it may indicate cam bearing distress. How do those look?
 
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Twisted46

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13
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OH
Originally Posted by A_Harman
Originally Posted by Twisted46
So obviously there is a big problem in the motor with these levels, what do you guys think. VR1 20-50 in a small block chevy used at the track in 20-40 minute sessions over a weekend. Oil looked like gold paint when I drained it so I sent it in for testing. This sample came out of the oil filter, I cut it open with tin snips.
Scariest looking oil analysis I've ever seen. I was expecting to see widespread bearing damage, but was the wiped rod bearing the only one you found? The numbers in the UOA probably are exaggerated because it was taken from the filter. With the aluminum and tin in the sample, it may indicate cam bearing distress. How do those look?
Yeah, when I saw those numbers expected to find catastrophic damage to the engine. I plan to pull it over Christmas shut down and get a better evaluation done. The plan is a full rebuild regardless.
 
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