How are my fluid selections?

[phenomic]

My Trans AM, 02 LS1 has 40k miles and I want to change all the fluids in it so that I am up to date on fluids. The previous owners seemed to be doing a great job on maintainance but I would like to change everything for my own peace of mind. I don't want to spend insane amounts for stuff like royal purple but I can spend a little bit on premium products since I like this car a lot and want to keep it for a long time.

Oil: 5 quarts 10w30 Mobil 1, This was all that was used in this car so far and I got the vette oil cap that says only use Mobil 1, (not that it matters but oh well)

Transmission: t-56 manual trans: 4 quarts dexron iii ATF fluid, I will see if I can find the mobil 1, if not I will go dino. Any other fluids i should get instead? I have heard that people get good results with certain other fluids but Im not sure.

Rear End: 2 quarts Mobil 1 75w90 (If i go synthetic, do I need the rear end additive), also, Should I go synthetic here or just stick with dino?

I will do the Steering probably with Valvoline SynPower, Already did the brakes with prestone synthetic dot 3

I am not going to change the coolant yet, it works fine, seems good condition and coolant is expensive (I will change it if I ever do a waterpump or cam swap, etc)

Just go over my maintenance plan and see if it is all good or if i should use something else.

 

[GoldenRod]

Put your money into a good manual trans oil like Redline or Amsoil.

In case you haven't heard, there have been some BITOGers experiencing strange valve train noises while using Mobil 1. There are a lot of great oils out there for less money.

 

[phenomic]

WEll, I am leaning towards Royal Purple Max Gear for the rear-end, since I don't need to add any LSD additive(or do I)

I have Mobil 1 oil in it now and no problems or piston slap. I change my oil at 3000 miles all the time so i was wondering if synthetic is even worth it in the engine (I do want the most power and Idk what to believe powerwise)

For the transmission Ill just get whatever is cheapest at the store.

 

[GoldenRod]

I didn't mean rear end; I meant gear box. You listed ATF. There have been some people here that have had smoother shifts by using Redline manual trans oil.

As far as a good 3K oil? Havoline will fit the bill. It is the most favored dino oil on this forum, and has had the best UOA results.

 

[dailydriver]

The engine oil is up to you. Many have had great luck with Amsoil 5W-40 or Redline 5W-40 or 10W-30, but I would suspect Pennzoil Platinum 10W-30 would be just as good especially if you can get it on sale/rebate for < $2.00/QT.

As of now, there are only 3 fluids I would chance in my T56; Dextron 3 or 6, GM/Pennzoil Synchromesh, or Specialty Formulations MTFglide.

The rear axle fluid is determined by which diff you have in there. Do you know for sure? If it is the standard T2 Torsen, you are fine with any synthetic with or without the FM additive. If it is an Auburn or Eaton diff, you must use mineral based (non-synthetic) gear oils with the FM additive.

Power steering you're OK for street use, but if you are autocrossing/open tracking the car at all, I would've gone with Redline, Royal Purple, or S.F. instead. Brake fluid is OK, I would have gone with at least the Valvoline Synpower stuff for not much more. I believe in overkill in this area, I went with the GS610.

If the Dexcool has never been changed, I would do that NOW! Maybe even with a flushing of the system. Despite claims to the contrary, it is NOT a lifetime/150K mile AF. I personally would not go more than 50K miles on it.

 

[phenomic]

I expect to do a cam swap or at least an electric water pump soon so I will do the dexcool when I do that because coolant isnt cheap and it still is working, looks good.

 

[Toros]

Seems to me you are wasting a boat load of money.
Oil is oil is oil is oil is oil. I would like to see one shred of evidence that shows that using Walmart SuperTech any weight oil...dino or otherwise is any better or worse for your engine and more specifically any evidence that using less expensive motor oil(s) result in engine damage.
What a bunch of **!! What are you nuts talking about at $5/QT for oil??? Transmission fluid: Please provide me with one shred of evidence that Walmart trans. fluid is any worse then Mobil 1 synthetic and specifically that any transmissions have failed or that warranty requirements were not fulfilled as a result of using same.
Radiator fluid: Please provide me one shred of evidence that proves that Walmart or any other low cost radiator fluid does not provide equal or better protection or voids the warranty of any car manufacturer.

Oh...and BTW, your car will not get better gas mileage after waxing it with Zaino or any other fools gold car wax....Turtle wax will make it go just as fast and efficiently fools!

 

[mshu7]

Toros,

There's evidence to all your comments ALL OVER this message board. Look at the UOA's. I'm not saying that certain oils are bad, but there are definitely oils that are better than others.

Get over yourself! If you are so outraged by all this, why the **** are you even here? I mean seriously...You've added nothing positive or worthwhile to this thread. The guy just wants some feedback and then for some reason you decide to go off the deep end!!!

Back on topic:
If you're only going 3K on oil changes, I'd stay with dino. Havoline seems to be a good choice. For your manual trans, I really like Redline. I put it in my 5spd. Mazda3 and it shifts so smooth now. I don't really have any suggestions or comments for the rear end. PS fluid & brake fluid are fine. I use Valvoline SynPower for my steering fluid and I'll probably use it for the brakes when the time comes.

Overall, enjoy that Trans Am. The LS1 is an awesome engine!

 

[Toros]

mshu7...no there is not. UOA is not proof of engine failure. At best it show minute differences in natural wear and tear. Cite one example from "ALL OVER" this board....just one that cheaper oil is the direct cause of engine failure. Get over yourself. Read the post before you get your panties in a bunch. Who is "outraged"? Perhaps you are after learning the truth I have provided you and you now realize how foolishly you have spent your money.

All of your imagined improved performance is simply rationalization that you engage so you can waste your own time and money. Interesting.
Oh, BTW, I'm not letting you off the hook so easily. Please provide the proof I asked for specifically to prove me wrong or you correct.

I thought so...

 

[mshu7]

Toros,

How about you re-read my post. I never said any oil was going to cause failure of some sort. As I stated before, I'm not saying that any oil is bad, but there are oils that are better than others. Plain and simple. I would re-read your post but it's all gibberish text. There's nothing in your post that's of value to anybody here.

So tell me, how is it that I'm wasting my money on Pennzoil Platinum synthetic when I purchased it for $2.12/qt.? How am I wasting my money on synthetic when I run it 10K miles between OC's?

I'm not going waste my time doing research FOR YOU! My problem with your post is that you added nothing. You went on this rant that was uncalled for. I don't even see why you are a registered member on this board with a post like that.

I'm done...

 

[The Critic]

phenomic,

Here are my suggestions:

Oil- Use the least expensive API SM rated oil you can find. Contrary to popular belief, though Walmart's Supertech oil is inexpensive, it isn't always the least expensive. Often times, you can find name brand oils onsale for less $$$ at Pepboys after a mail-in rebate.

I'd also use a Supertech or Purolator Premium Plus Oil Filter. Use the less expensive of the two, and sometimes you'll find awesome deals on the Premium Plus from Pepboys for less than $1.

Change the oil and filter per the Oil Life Monitor. Verify with oil analysis if desired.

Transmission Fluid- I'd use Supertech Dexron-IIIH/Mercon. $6/gallon at Walmart, Mobil 1 ATF costs $6/qt! Change it every 30,000 miles given its low cost and for the sake of preventive maintenance.

Rear End- This particular rear-end requires a 75W90 GL-5 synthetic gear lube with the LSD additive. Most of the synthetic gear lubes already contain the LSD additive, Redline, Royal Purple, and Mobil 1 for instance. I believe Walmart sells a 75W90 synthetic gear lube, and this would be a good value if it also included the LSD additive.

Coolant- Coolant is not expensive, especially when you compare it to the cost of engine corrosion once the corrosion inhibitors wear out. I'm not sure where you gathered such an opinion that coolant is to be judged by its appearance. Coolant will appear identical in color to its virgin state even when depeleted.

Walmart Supertech Extended Life 5-yr/150,000 mi antifreeze is a fluid that is compatible with DexCool systems. $6.88/gal. You'll only need two gallons of fluid to flush and fill the system. Drain out the block and the radiator, and refill with tap water. Idle the engine for 15 minutes with the heater on. Drain and repeat once more. When you drain the system for the last time, disconnect the lower radiator hose. Place six GM Cooling system sealer pellets in the hose itself. Do not add it to the reservoir, it will not circulate completely in the system. The intent of the sealer pellets (ginger root/walnut shells) is to seal off any point of coolant intrustion. Its less than $5 for a six-pack at most GM dealers.

When refilling, for this particular system (3 gal capacity), add 1.5 gal of the coolant and top-off the rest with water to acheive a 50/50 mixture.

Toros, I agree with most of your statements. There will be little difference between brands in the same price range if the product meets a particular specification. With that said, I see no reason why Supertech products would not work if they were used in the correct application and changed at the recommended interval.

quote:

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So tell me, how is it that I'm wasting my money on Pennzoil Platinum synthetic when I purchased it for $2.12/qt.? How am I wasting my money on synthetic when I run it 10K miles between OC's?

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Are you certain about this?

Imagine this very common scenario.

Late model vehicle under warranty (or not under warranty at all, really irrelevant here), accumulates 8-10K/yr consisting of mostly 1-3 mi trips. Engine rarely reaches normal operating temperature.

OEM drain interval is 6-mo/5,000 miles under this type of service, or is the only interval recommended.

Wouldn't it be logical to do a 6-mo interval in this case to remove contaminants such as unburned fuel and water from the engine oil on a more frequent basis, such as a 6-month/5,000 mi interval?

Remember, the only possible advantage of your synthetic oil for most of us is the possibility of an extended drain interval, which may not be feasible in all cases, especially when extremely short trips are part of the driving profile and a more frequent drain is desirable due to the contaminants.

[ April 24, 2006, 09:58 PM: Message edited by: The Critic ]

 

[mechtech]

The tranny is my concern.
ATF just doesn't have the protection and friction modification for shifting as a modern, light, gear oil.
Specialty Formulations has many flavors, and are superb lubes.
On this and other forums, upgrading the manual trans fluid has made very significant changes for the better.
Oil=oil=oil = HeHaw=HeHaw=HeHaw. [DONKEY NOISES]

 

[GoldenRod]

Where did this Toros guy come from?

 

[Toros]

quote:

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Originally posted by GoldenRod:
Where did this Toros guy come from?

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3498 members before you.

 

[phenomic]

Yes, DD has it right. I drive the heck out of my cars but I definentally do take care of them. I still got the tasty rebate on maxlife synthetic, i think i will get that for now and i will do a bit more investigation on the rest of the stuff.

I am a bit confused on the rear, i believe i have the torsen (02 year) and I don't believe i need the rear additive.

 

[Patman]

Hard driven LS1s definitely need a thicker oil, especially if they don't have an oil cooler, so a good 5w40 is definitely a better way to go.

I'm running GC 0w30 in my LS1 Corvette, with excellent results, but we all know GC 0w30 is basically only a hair away from being a 0w40.

 

[TomJones76]

I'll comment on the crankcase only.
I am assuming your horsepower output is above stock and that you're beating the heck out of it.
M1 10W30 should hold up just fine. It's hard to kill.
Also consider oils from Redline or Amsoil. Both make oils are that very tough with strong additive packages and good resistance to thermal breakdown.

 

[dailydriver]

I don't think all of you "get it". He is talking about cam swaps and Meziere water pumps. People don't do those mods without the intent to drive their LS1s very hard!! A bigger cam puts lots more stress on the valvetrain, along with the stouter valve springs required. Regardless of dino or synthetic (or OCIs), he'd better be giving that thing a good diet of moly and/or zinc (already in a good synthetic). It seems most of you are looking at this from an anemic Corolla/Camry owner's viewpoint. Most LS1 f body owners (including myself) that I know drive the **** out of their cars, they probably would not own them if they did not intend to do just that!! These things are driven like race cars, but sadly, most of the time are not given the maniacal care or fluid changes/treatments of most race cars. This is why I suggested what I did.

BTW; there are specifics which need to be followed as concerns the trans/rear axle fluids for this particular car (sometimes even mid year changes). It is definitely not "one size fits all".