Hot water heater leaking

[Lubener]

Thank goodness I was woken (awakened?) by my wife letting me know the leak sensor was going off in

the basement. The water heater is leaking at around one drop/sec, so not bad yet. Not that that means anything…

We have a good guy we’re going to call Monday to get it done. I’m canceling plans for tomorrow to stick around and make room for the guys (and keep an eye on the heater.

I won’t be doing the job myself.

There is not an isolation valve, it’s just hard-piped inlet and out.

All electric house.

Any recommendations? Flexible hose update, iso valve a must? I’m researching now.

Thanks guys. I know I haven’t been around much lately, but I come here for stuff like this because I always know I’ll get good advice!

You can either use braided flexible lines or use a dielectric couplers. Your choice. If your copper lines were directly attached to the tank, that probably shortened the lifespan of your existing tank.

If you go with dielectric couplers, I would do this slight modification which could add years to your new tank.

 

[Donald]

As water heats it expands. In some instances it can build up excessive pressure on the tank and plumbing.

It is plumbing code required here.

If you have a well then no need for expansion tank

 

[Donald]

If you are having a pro do the job let him choose the small plumbing parts such as flex lines, etc. You want the install guaranteed.

I assume you have ruled out the T&P leaking?

 

[burbguy82]

I can no longer give advice on plumbing operations. So on this site, I am near worthless now. But I will say, that an expansion tank or expansion valve is code, as is a cutoff valve for the unit.

@walterjay is the resident plumber here to ask these questions., aswell as perhaps some others, mostly unknown to me.

 

[billt460]

This is my new water heater installation from 2020, going on 5 years now. Like you, my setup did not have a shutoff valve. So I installed one. The only "mistake" I made, is I went with braided supply lines. (Top photo).

After about 9 months the outgoing hot water line started to leak at the crimped connection, (around the red washer) at the water heater. Not enough to puddle, but it started calcifying badly at the crimp.

So I replaced it with the flexible, solid copper line you see in the lower photo. Problem solved. (Yeah, I know. I probably should have replaced both of them at the same time). But so far, so good.

From now on I will only use the flexible, one piece copper lines. I recommend you do the same. They're only a few bucks more.

I didn't bother with an expansion tank. The reason is that in 72 years of living, in a total of 6 homes, I've never had one. I have known people who had issues with them leaking, and paid to have them either replaced, or removed entirely.

As was mentioned, they have to be checked on somewhat of a regular basis, or they become pretty much useless. The concept itself isn't a bad one. It's just that for the most part, they're really not necessary over the long haul.

I'm convinced their not, based on almost a lifetime of living without them. As always YMMV.

 

[tbm5690]

If you are having a pro do the job let him choose the small plumbing parts such as flex lines, etc. You want the install guaranteed.

I assume you have ruled out the T&P leaking?

Why, lower inlet pressure?

 

[dbias]

I haven’t seen it mentioned where the leak is coming from

 

[Mcbeem5]

Can any plumbers chime in here, 4 years ago put in a new water heater that has factory installed --

2" x 4" Galvanized Steel Dielectric Nipple w/ Pex Insulator​

Features:

• Galvanized
• Dielectric nipple
• Thread x Thread
• 2" x 4"
• Used to properly connect different metal piping
• ---Prevents the deterioration of the pipe connections and stray induced electrical currents---
• ASTM A-53 Galvanized steel schedule 40 nipples available in thread x thread, groove x groove, and thread x groove.
• Meets ASTM F-492-95 and are temperature rated 110 C. / 230 F.

These are supposed to be dielectic ,but my copper connection on the cold inlet has a small leak and looks corroded,those dielectric nipples are supposed to prevent that ??

 

[Donald]

Why, lower inlet pressure?

Not suggesting anything about inlet pressure

T&P valves get corroded or crudded up and begin to leak. Sometimes opening the T&P valve and snapping it back closed will stop the leak. Other times just replace it

 

[Sumboodie]

Why?

It's code

 

[tmorris1]

As water heats it expands. In some instances it can build up excessive pressure on the tank and plumbing.

It is plumbing code required here.

Not here that I know of. Isn't that what the pressure relief valve is for on the top side of the tank?

 

[DBMaster]

If you have a well then no need for expansion tank

I did some research on this a few months ago. A number of plumbing sites stated that an expansion tank is needed for closed plumbing systems only. My system is open (house built in 1996). I replaced the original heater in 2007 and it's still working well. The location is one in which a leak would be readily visible and would not enter the house. I tried replacing the anode rod at the five year point, but was unable to remove the original.

Any plumbers on here who can confirm or deny the open versus closed system related to expansion tank need?

 

[walterjay]

Not here that I know of. Isn't that what the pressure relief valve is for on the top side of the tank?

No. Not the job of the PRV.

 

[tmorris1]

No. Not the job of the PRV.

Maybe it isn't needed here because we don't have a "closed loop' with a check valve back to the water system. From what I can tell and from what I have Googled, they serve the same function. The only difference is that water is discharged outside the system to a drain with a pressure relief valve and an expansion tank does not discharge any water.

 

[Donald]

When I bought heat pump water heater I had a plumber install it as it was 300 lbs. To heavy for me to wrestle into place. I bought a bunch of various length braided supply lines to him to use. He said return them as I will bring better ones. Not going to second guess the plumber.

 

[Donald]

Why, lower inlet pressure?

Your well pump tank serves as the expansion tank for entire house. Obviously an actual hot water boiler to heat your house via baseboards or radiators needs one, but not the water heater.

 

[gathermewool]

I assume you have ruled out the T&P leaking?

That is correct.

I haven’t seen it mentioned where the leak is coming from

It’s impossible to tell - it appears to be pooling up in the insulation beneath the heater elements, but there does not appear to be water on the elements or terminals.

//

I apologize for taking so long to reply - this weekend has been busy.

The leak has not gotten worse. I’ve moved the leak detector farther away by about a foot and it hasn’t gone off. I’ve also been personally keeping an eye on it.

 

[Donald]

That is correct.



It’s impossible to tell - it appears to be pooling up in the insulation beneath the heater elements, but there does not appear to be water on the elements or terminals.

//

I apologize for taking so long to reply - this weekend has been busy.

The leak has not gotten worse. I’ve moved the leak detector farther away by about a foot and it hasn’t gone off. I’ve also been personally keeping an eye on it.

Maybe the gasket that seals the element to the tank is deteriorating. Throw in a new element with new gasket for $20. Most seal with a gasket, not NPT.

You can judge how corroded the tank is (somewhat) by looking around through the hole for the element. Reason to buy an endoscope if you do not have one.

 

[gathermewool]

Maybe the gasket that seals the element to the tank is deteriorating. Throw in a new element with new gasket for $20. Most seal with a gasket, not NPT.

You can judge how corroded the tank is (somewhat) by looking around through the hole for the element. Reason to buy an endoscope if you do not have one.

I can’t see anything coming from either element.

I should have also said that the tank was older than the previous owner could remember back when I bought the place in 2017. I put a thermal blanket on the heater and, when probed, saw like 90-something degrees between the tank and blanket. It was very telling.

 

[Donald]

Time for a new heater. The sticker with all the specs and certifications for the hot water should show a manufacture date.