Hose clamps got me again

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Sep 30, 2013
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Just a day after I considered looking at an old Lexus “4Runner”, I noticed coolant drips on passenger floor of my ‘97 Blazer.

I realize it doesn’t mean anything with today’s quality of parts, but the heater core is only ~4 years old and the cooling system is in tip top shape. I got to looking and once again, it appears to be the hose clamps at the firewall where they connect to the HC’s inlet and outlet pipes in the engine bay.

I have tried the nice worm gear clamps with the extra tab as well as the factory constant tension style. What else is there to use?
 
I have never had a constant tension clamp leak unless it was twisted from removal.

However, if you re-used the old hoses they might have been stretched on removal, and if there old and hard you may never get them to seal no matter what clamp you use.
 
I have never had a constant tension clamp leak unless it was twisted from removal.

However, if you re-used the old hoses they might have been stretched on removal, and if there old and hard you may never get them to seal no matter what clamp you use.
I should have added these were OE hoses that came with new clamps. I have a clamp tool on a cable for easy removal and installation.
 
I was taught that HOSE CLAMPS DON'T SEAL, the nipple seals against the hose, the clamp just keeps the hose on the nipple.
 
For things like vacuum hoses no clamps are common but hoses that have pressure in them the clamps prevent the hose from expanding around the nipple. Without them there is no seal. There are other issues when plastic fittings are in play.
 
I was told constant pressure clamps are just that..constant. they have the ability to thermally expand and keep tension but more importantly they contract equally so. Not something a worm gear is capable of.
 
ss worm gear w/lining (it keeps the thing from doin whacha get w/yours). I like hilman as they're so easy to use, may pinch tho (just no "worm gear rips"). Good Luck
 
The coolant nipples on the BMWs are aluminum an they pit over the decades. My fix was a liberal coat of Permatex Aviation Forma Gasket #2. Non hardening and acts as a lubricant and halts galvanic action. It is widely available, whereas, I've never seen Hylomar, but gather it is a British equivalent. I get that worm gear clamps loosen over time. However the clamps behind the engine and under the intake were easier to deal with with a 1/4 driver plus extensions and U-joints, than a pair of torsion clamp pliers
 
I was told constant pressure clamps are just that..constant. they have the ability to thermally expand and keep tension but more importantly they contract equally so. Not something a worm gear is capable of.
IMO, worm gear clamps work fine with old school nice, thick rubber hoses. There's plenty of rubber to expand and contract even though the clamp doesn't (though we used to snug them up from time to time). Newer, thinner, cheaper, lighter hoses require constant tension clamps because there's not enough rubber. But they don't get as tight as worm gear clamps. Sometimes a beefy worm gear clamp can compensate for corroded or worn hoses or fittings. Just don't overrtighten lol.
 
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