Honda K24 2.4L / 5 speed AT - known issues / what to look for?

[SC Maintenance]

Need to buy the kid a car. She went and got a paid internship next semester, so she needs to drive a couple miles. So I need something pretty soon.

Since old Toyota's are apparently gold plated - I see a number of Accord / CR-V in the 2008 - 2012 ish range with the 2.4l and 5 speed auto combo. If I get one that stayed local should be no rust issues. Reading some things on the 2.4l on VVT solenoid issues / timing chain replacements. Doesn't look terrible - how common is that problem.

Also read maybe some trans issues - shudder at low speeds?

Any input? Other issues to look for? Are these good combo's. The ones I am looking at are pretty high miles - 130K+

 

[nwjones18]

Probably some of the most reliable vehicles you could be looking for.. My wifes has been great mechanically the only thing I've changed is a starter and radiator engine/transmission wise. ATF is easy to change while you're changing the oil. Hers shifts good with Maxlife. I run 5w-30 synblend to whatever the maintenance minder says and have no issues. I don't feel like this vehicle would have any issues making it to 250k with routine maintenance. She's had it 10 years and is ready for a new car just because, but I really cannot justify it with how this one runs/drives. They do recommend a valve adjustment at 100k if I recall and I did that myself.

 

[tbm5690]

Door lock actuators go out commonly on that era of CR-V. Mechanically solid though.

 

[JeffKeryk]

Our 2006 TSX with the mighty K24 has about 220K and has been flawless. Oil changes every 5K. trans spill and fill at 25K, tires, brakes, alternator and batteries. I did lose 1 ignition coil...

I would drive this car to NY right now and not even check the oil.

 

[Nukeman7]

Door lock actuators go out commonly on that era of CR-V. Mechanically solid though.

Yep, however the actuators are $15 on Amazon and it only takes ~1 hour to replace each one. The K24/AT combo is highly reliable if oil/filter changes and DW-1 ATF changes are done regularly. A specific concern with the CR-V is that the OEM catalytic converter is highly coveted by thieves and can be stolen in 45 seconds due to its accessibility (don't ask how I know that). The lower ride height on an Accord makes it much harder to steal.

 

[IndyIan]

If its the same trans and motor as the 2006 CRV, its pretty tough. Ours had near 200k miles on it and I put some slightly oversize tires on which meant it couldn't really hold 5th when towing, and had terrible trans programming so it was shifting all the time especially on the hills. I got sick of it and just put the cruise on and let it shift and rev up and down all over the place.... It didn't seem to matter though, it just used more gas and carried on.
So don't tow with bigger tires on it, and don't expect the CRV to be particularly good on gas, other than the self inflicted problems, it was fine.

 

[nwjones18]

If its the same trans and motor as the 2006 CRV, its pretty tough. Ours had near 200k miles on it and I put some slightly oversize tires on which meant it couldn't really hold 5th when towing, and had terrible trans programming so it was shifting all the time especially on the hills. I got sick of it and just put the cruise on and let it shift and rev up and down all over the place.... It didn't seem to matter though, it just used more gas and carried on.
So don't tow with bigger tires on it, and don't expect the CRV to be particularly good on gas, other than the self inflicted problems, it was fine.

Sort of unrelated, but if someone knows how to get these things to hold in 4th gear I'd like to hear it. I guess that 4/5 are both O/D's and if you press the O/D off button it holds it in 3rd (I'm pretty sure) and it really screams at highway speed. Only time I've wanted to do it is towing my 16ft Jon boat through hills (which it does fine, just didn't want it shifting all the time) and I think it would do it just fine in 4th gear.

Our CRV gets roughly 23 in town and 27 on the hwy.

 

[maverickfhs]

Need to buy the kid a car. She went and got a paid internship next semester, so she needs to drive a couple miles. So I need something pretty soon.

Since old Toyota's are apparently gold plated - I see a number of Accord / CR-V in the 2008 - 2012 ish range with the 2.4l and 5 speed auto combo. If I get one that stayed local should be no rust issues. Reading some things on the 2.4l on VVT solenoid issues / timing chain replacements. Doesn't look terrible - how common is that problem.

Also read maybe some trans issues - shudder at low speeds?

Any input? Other issues to look for? Are these good combo's. The ones I am looking at are pretty high miles - 130K+

Early 8th Gen Accords had oil burning issues and VTC rattle - so please do a bit of research on it. Based on what I know '11 and '12 Accords are solids vehicles if maintained properly. Huge fan of K24

 

[Dave Sherman]

My 2008 CR-V was very reliable for 112,000 miles, traded for something a bit bigger. Even towed my popup camper with it, and the engine and transmission never gave me a hint of any trouble. Just did the ATF change about every 30,000 when the maintenance minder called for it. Did the valve adjustment at 105,000, and it had one slightly loose valve, the rest were still right on the money.

 

[michaelluscher]

K24 can burn oil, and VTC grind on startup isn't uncommon

If you find a good clean one, it's a solid choice

 

[gregk24]

2008-2010 had more oil burning issues, 2011-2012 would be preferred for sure as long as you find a well maintained example. I had a 2012 Accord 2.4 before the Camry, excellent car.

 

[Fredxt]

Also read maybe some trans issues - shudder at low speeds?

That was what my 2014 CRV was doing 2 month after I bought used it with 50k miles. I think dealers pour shudder fixx or lubeguard before they sell it so you wont notice it when test driving. I did a 3x drain n refill with Amsoil ATL and DW1 and it fixed it permamently.

Any input? Other issues to look for? Are these good combo's. The ones I am looking at are pretty high miles - 130K+

Other than tranny, check for cold start VTC rattle. It's a 1000$ dealer fix (change VTC gear) or 2hr DIY (change the spring inside the VTC gear). I also had to do serp belt pulley, hardmonic balancer and sway bar links. Specially sway bar links improve the ride feel.
Injectors also need a deep cleaning, like HSS Gasoline Extreme or Redline SL1 but repeat multiple times. That improves the mpg by 2 or so.
If you could, also check the cylinder walls, mine already has some minor lines on it so I am trying to keep the rings clean.
Of course a regular tune up might be needed, but it's so easy on this car I would have done it anyways.

 

[Sequoiasoon]

228k on my daughters '08 CRV. Mostly dealer maintained for first like 210k, it was a hand me down from my sister/BIL. Great vehicle, daughter loves it. Not fast, but reliable. Added a better radio/amp/small sub, winter tires on spare rims one size larger, light tint on front windows.

Needed a starter, and some odds and ends maintenance. Did all the normal tune up things (plugs/filters/fluids/PCV, serp belt etc.) Valves were adjusted at about 100k and 210k. Cat stolen at like 215k.

Hers had the stuck AC relay (common) that was causing clutch to hold when off and kill the battery numerous times. Big part of why my sister didn't want it anymore even though I told them. They said AC works fine that's not the problem . Changed relay when we got it and parasitic drain gone.

Replaced tranny external filter with a Magnefine. Tranny fluid had multiple D&F at dealer over the years. I did a DW-1 when I got it, last year a VML, this year an HPL Blue. Tranny shifts fine, AWD works fine. Rear diff dual pump fluid changed multiple times through out.

Clogged sunroof drain wet floor (leaves build up behind the fender liner) and clogged exit port.

Currently doing a 2nd round of HPL EC30, getting some carbon from somewhere, pictures in other threads. It gets Gumout Regane, Multi Tune, BG 44k 2-3 times per year and BG Ethanol treatment before winter as it gets cold, Maybe another if forecasted longer cold plus keep tank full.

Hers had a VERY odd steering rack issue not fully centering and had to be changed. No one ever listed that on the CRV forums, shop had never seen it. Strange things happen.

Last year the metal PS line that runs by passenger tire rotted out and leaked the fluid out. New parts were cheap and at dealer next day.

 

[greg_J35]

Need to buy the kid a car. She went and got a paid internship next semester, so she needs to drive a couple miles. So I need something pretty soon.

Since old Toyota's are apparently gold plated - I see a number of Accord / CR-V in the 2008 - 2012 ish range with the 2.4l and 5 speed auto combo. If I get one that stayed local should be no rust issues. Reading some things on the 2.4l on VVT solenoid issues / timing chain replacements. Doesn't look terrible - how common is that problem.

Also read maybe some trans issues - shudder at low speeds?

Any input? Other issues to look for? Are these good combo's. The ones I am looking at are pretty high miles - 130K+

Had a 2003 Accord with that drivetrain bought new. My wife and I drove that car 18 years 265000 miles and it never left us stranded. I performed OCI’s at 5000 miles with 5w20 synthetic , atf drain/refills at 15000 miles , and spark plugs at 100000 miles.
One alternator and one Ivtec solenoid.
The current owner has driven it to 275000 miles, reports minimal oil consumption and recently had the EGR cleaned due to carbon buildup.
Your experience may vary depending on previous owner maintenance.

 

[wag123]

The only major mechanical issues with them are motor mounts (there will be a noticeable vibration at idle) and A/C problems (the compressor and compressor clutch in particular).
The paint and exterior trim deteriorate badly in the southern sun/heat.
The transmission and AWD rear differential fluids need to be changed fairly often or you will have problems with both of them down the road.
The crappy undersized 51R motorcycle battery will need to be replaced fairly often.
Everything else is pretty solid.
Try to find one that has a verifiable maintenance history.

 

[jjf729]

My 2009 CR-V has been the most reliable vehicle I’ve ever owned. It’s been in the family since new and I’ve had it since 2016. It had its first repair outside of routine maintenance this year (O2 sensor).

Depending on your location, frame rust is a concern on the 3rd gen CR-V and there is a current recall for rust belt states. The area to check on these is where the rear trailing arms connect to the frame.

 

[Sequoiasoon]

My 2009 CR-V has been the most reliable vehicle I’ve ever owned. It’s been in the family since new and I’ve had it since 2016. It had its first repair outside of routine maintenance this year (O2 sensor).

Depending on your location, frame rust is a concern on the 3rd gen CR-V and there is a current recall for rust belt states. The area to check on these is where the rear trailing arms connect to the frame.

Excellent point! Honda installed the braces on the 228k '08. Some people are stuck with to much rust and Honda is buying them out but not for value that you want. Then again do you want a vehicle that may fail?

https://www.crvownersclub.com/threads/recall-for-3g-rear-subframe-corrosion.234290/page-9More details on CRVOWNERSCLUB.

 

[dfarr67]

2015 accord here- no real issues, but if you are buying used, if the po was not on their game with oil changes- the chain might be a problem.

 

[Dino01]

Common issues already covered, but my v6 09 Accord has been the most reliable rig I’ve ever owned, zero issues (just annoyance of the expensive timing belt replacement a couple years ago, but that’s inherent to the v6)

Overall great generation of Accord, maybe the best overall for its mix of reliability, comfort, driving dynamics, and this is a big one - safety. The 8th gen was a big leap forward in safety vs 7th and older due to ACE body structure

Advanced Compatibility Engineering - Wikipedia

en.m.wikipedia.org

 

[duck__dodgers]

Drove one of these for >160,000 miles. Great choice!

other than the obvious stuff common on high-mileage cars (checking the alternator, starter, belts, etc.)

Off the top of my head....in no order:

VTEC solenoid actuator may be clogging and needing replacement if the prior owner(s) stayed on the long-side of oil change intervals (which is probably >85% of drivers;
the OEM HVAC actuators (mode select, etc.) likely will wear out---relatively easy DIY;
if you use the physical key to unlock the doors, the internal lock cylinder will wear out (common on high-mileage Hondas of that era)...and of course only the driver's door has a physical key hole;
if you live in a cold climate think about swapping the stock 51R-size battery for a larger battery size (24, etc) for more amps (lots of info on forums).

will add more if I remember something...but essentially relatively for a mechanic or advanced DIYer to work on, you don't have to disassemble the dashboard or engine bay to swap out a $50 part.

Good luck!