Honda EU2000i

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Jan 25, 2010
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Does anyone know how to get the piston / valves out of an EU2000 generator? I have mine torn down but im at a loss on how to get the piston / valves out. Since it doesnt seem that the head is removable im guessing i have to remove the crank and remove them from the inside?

For those that want to know the back story on why im tearing it down. I recently acquired a non running EU2000i today from my neighbor and decided to go through it. Engine looked like he never did any maintenance as the oil was pitch black and the gas in tank was rank. He had no idea when the last time he used it and gave me a blank stare when i asked him about if he had ever changed the oil. Being that it looked in pretty rough shape I changed all the fluids and cleaned the carb up hoping to get it to start. Even after a through cleaning it still wouldn't start. I even sprayed starting fluid directly in the carb and it wouldn't even sputter. I checked it for spark which it had so i decided to do a compression test. It turned out the engine had no compression. I pulled the valve cover off and realized the intake valve was stuck open and extremely carboned. I was able to get the valve freed up but the compression was still low so i decided to pull everything apart. Despite the oil looking black the cylinder wall looks in decent shape. The valves are super black but im hoping I can bring it back to life after a good internal cleaning and maybe some new rings.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
Joined
May 30, 2010
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I think the head, cylinder are 1 piece, so it will have to come out the bottom. The head cylinder is about $200. So is it worth it?

img_1549937_0_db77255610889edcab2f621bcdd0ece0.jpg

 

KFoster

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YT is your friend ;)

Haha yeah that video is actually how i got this far in my tear down its a pretty decent explanation.

Unfortunately he didn't pull the piston or the valves so I wasn't sure if there was something else I was missing as the only way it can come out the bottom is if I remove the crank.
 
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I wouldn’t be afraid to open it up. I’ve not been into a gx but small ope engines are not intimidating once you open them up, and if the crank is clean and doesn’t scrape the bearings up on the way out, there’s very little risk there.
 
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Why not try soaking the piston and valves to clean the carbon out? Give it a try to loosen things up.
 

KFoster

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So guys to give you an update i got it all tore apart and put back together. I was hopeful that a good cleaning was going to solve the problem after seeing the inside but im back at the drawing board. Once I got it torn down I was able to see the valves and piston and the amount of crud and carbon that came off the valves was crazy. I cleaned them up real good and after getting all the crud out everything looked really good. I decided to slap it back together and see what would happen. While the crank had some junk in the case i could still see the oem cross hatch on the cylinder walls and everything else looked decent.

However after putting it back together the thing still wont run. It has compression now around 55-60psi but it doesnt want to turn over.
I cleaned the carb and checked that its getting fuel. Timing and Spark looked good and I adjusted the valves. However, even with spraying starting fluid into the intake it still wont start. After about 5 - 10 pulls it sometimes acts like it wants to turn over and i got it to sputter a few times. Not really sure where to go next as from what im seeing right now everything checks out.
 
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Slovenia EU
Did you connect all the fuel lines back correctly? Especially that line to the impulse pump? On my CHonda clone...it goes from the breather on a cylinder to that impulse pump....
 

KFoster

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Did you connect all the fuel lines back correctly? Especially that line to the impulse pump? On my CHonda clone...it goes from the breather on a cylinder to that impulse pump....
Yes I did. I even pulled the line going to the carb to verify it was pumping correctly. What worried me more is that it wouldnt even start when spraying it with starting fluid. I was leaning more towards a timing issue but the marks all match the shop diagram says.
 
Joined
Feb 15, 2003
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Spark plug is always a good place to start.

But 50 PSI of compression is a clue. Unless you forgot the piston rings (a little joke) or a valve is being held open, it seems to me like the cam timing is off.
 
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50 psi might be fine with the pull-start decompression. those figures might be worth looking up. ??

it might be worth lapping the valves. It’s not hard and this would be a good way to learn. You did put the valves in the same ports they came from, yes?
 
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Posts like this remind me of why I baby mine. I probably ran it 10-12 hours during the recent outage here due to heavy, wet snow when some falling tree limbs took out supply line from transformer to neighbors house and in the process tore connection to my house loose on transformer. After running it, on a propane conversion kit, so no chance of gummed up fuel in carb or gas tank, I ran it a bit to warm up, then changed the oil using Pennzoil Platnium 10w-30 full synthetic. My personal policy is to always store it with clean fresh oil.
 
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I’ve now got about 5 years of use on mine. It’s seen a few hurricanes and been loaned out to responsible family for weeks. Still working perfectly
 
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