Honda Civic Type R FK8 K20C1 - OEM Engine type 2.0 - 9017 km

There is no maximum SAE viscosity you can use. Fuel economy will suffer somewhat but you’ll not damage the engine unless the winter rating is inappropriate for the expected starting conditions.
 
What about oil too thick to ensure proper flow on the camshafts when the engine is "abused" while the oil isn't properly warmed, leading to long term top end/camshafts damages?
I suppose that's between operator error, urban legend and poorly designed engines.
 
I only Drive in the summer at 10Celsius and higher. I think that will be good. But i do not know if mobil 1 fs or espX3 0W40 will be the best for me ..
 
Will you be using that car on track? There are a lot of why you could use XW50 and why not to use XW50.
I personally would stick to thick XW30 C3 oil if not on track.
 
I only Drive in the summer, german Autobahn 😉 With Highspeed. Not very Often on racetrack, Maybe 2-3 times a year, 100 Kilometer.
I have two options, mobil 1 fs 0W40, or mobil 1 espx3 0W40.
Amsoil Signature Series 10W30 i have , too in may garage. But i dont think LSPI is a Problem in this Engine, so i do not Must use API SP..
 
I only Drive in the summer, german Autobahn 😉 With Highspeed. Not very Often on racetrack, Maybe 2-3 times a year, 100 Kilometer.
I have two options, mobil 1 fs 0W40, or mobil 1 espx3 0W40.
Amsoil Signature Series 10W30 i have , too in may garage. But i dont think LSPI is a Problem in this Engine, so i do not Must use API SP..
I would go X3 in DI engine.
 
Now i will Order mobil1 espX3 0W40 With API SNPlus. I think this will be a great „anti LSPi“ Engine oil .
 
What about oil too thick to ensure proper flow on the camshafts when the engine is "abused" while the oil isn't properly warmed, leading to long term top end/camshafts damages?
I suppose that's between operator error, urban legend and poorly designed engines.

What’s too thick in your book? BMW spec 10w60? The M cars seem just fine with it… not counting the bearings unwilling to play along. 😆🤣

I personally don’t think there’s such a thing. I run 10w40 in my 1.8L Toyota Celica 4 banger. It shears it down to a 30 grade in 1,500 miles and that engine revs to 8,000rpm constantly. 🤷🏻‍♂️
 
That is kind of a urban legend (?) floating on the Fiat/Alfa forums, regarding the Barchetta engine and some members of the Fiat modular series (mainly 5cyl with turbo), where some used some Selenia Racing (or any 10W60) oil. Some of these engines suffer from camshafts/lifters damages, and people seem to pinpoint toward 10W60 oil and insufficient top end flow.
But like I said, first we are talking Fiat Alfa, then these are 25+ yo designs (and used with oils from that long ago), and often young/inexperienced/not keeping on top of maintenance drivers, so a lot of factors, too many :D Also we're talking at best 10 years old discussions, and I'm old too, so my memory isn't the best!
Interestingly, less wannabe fancy variants of these engines don't seem to suffer the same fate, and 40 is the recommended grade for these. I think if the camshaft issues are really a thing, it has to be more some abuse of cold engines...
 
Motul says i can use 5W50 in my Engine, too. Motul 300v i can use on geh street Without any Problems, Max 10000 Kilometers.
 
Here I have a new analysis of our everyday car Honda Civic Type R. Despite the most massive fuel input and 0W20, the element analysis shows no abnormalities. The vehicles also run very reliably with such thin lubricants in Japan and the USA. In particular, I noticed the element iron in comparison element analyses with the thin oil positively compared to thicker oils, not only once. I think the inlet wear of the vehicle should now be completed.
 

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And I say it again, you can. And the practical examples, as available several times here in the forum, show this again and again how well and almost perfectly such oils work. If you doubt the measurement method and particle size forever, then this is nothing more than an attempt to look at thick oils as the non plus Ultra. They just don't are. The highest demands on oils today are the thin liquid oils and no longer the convetoll viscosity classes. This can also be read with lubrizol.
 
And I say it again, you can. And the practical examples, as available several times here in the forum, show this again and again how well and almost perfectly such oils work. If you doubt the measurement method and particle size forever, then this is nothing more than an attempt to look at thick oils as the non plus Ultra. They just don't are. The highest demands on oils today are the thin liquid oils and no longer the convetoll viscosity classes. This can also be read with lubrizol.
They may work fine as you say and that’s not what I meant. You are using an inadequate tool to determine that, however.

A bit of understanding of basic physics would help here.
 
could give dozens of examples of high mileage and thin oils, all of which are available here. But I think then the next excuse comes from you. If oils are released for 0w20, then there is no more wear than with a sae 40, for example. These are practical experiences. Whoever says thicker is always better at wear and tear who just lives in yesterday and not in the present.
 
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