Honda Civic Brakes question?

[maverickfhs]

Hi Guys, so we did almost all front suspension work on 2003 Honda Civic with ~145k miles this weekend.

Looked at brake pads and they were looking a bit low. This is the second set of advance auto front brake pads gone in last 25-30k miles.

Also, one brake pin on each side is seized up and rubber boot seems a bit torn too. Also, noticed a lot of rust in brake caliper piston circular hole(which compresses pads against rotors for braking).

Few questions:

1- Which pads should I get which can last a bit? Also, should I replace rotors too, they seem fine though? I believe they are 'Original' ones.

2-What's the best way to unfreeze that pin - I'll use sil-glyde moving forward.

3- Rear brakes are drum ones, do they go bad easily or no? I don't use hard braking or do any crazy driving. Under normal driving conditions, should they be looked at or replaced?

4- Is rust normal inside the piston or no?


Thanks a lot for all of your inputs and help.

 

[Rolla07]

#1: Akebono or Bosch (im pleasantly surprised with them)
Ceramics for low dust and durability or semi metallic for best braking force. Yes- replace rotors, doing so will improve braking and make pads last longer. Id recommend Wagner rotors.
#2: Heat it with a propane torch, worked like a charm for me. Clean with brake cleaner thoroughly and apply generous coat of sil glyde, also apply some on back of brake pads to reduce squeal.
#3: I am still on my original drums but at our mileage, would be worth at least checking their thickness to see if replacement is needed, replacement may also help extend front brake pad life.
#4 Rust is normal, mine are heavily rusted, just clean them up a bit, no biggie.

 

[maverickfhs]

Originally Posted By: Rolla07
#1: Akebono or Bosch (im pleasantly surprised with them)
Ceramics for low dust and durability or semi metallic for best braking force. Yes- replace rotors, doing so will improve braking and make pads last longer. Id recommend Wagner rotors.
#2: Heat it with a propane torch, worked like a charm for me. Clean with brake cleaner thoroughly and apply generous coat of sil glyde, also apply some on back of brake pads to reduce squeal.
#3: I am still on my original drums but at our mileage, would be worth at least checking their thickness to see if replacement is needed, replacement may also help extend front brake pad life.
#4 Rust is normal, mine are heavily rusted, just clean them up a bit, no biggie.



Thanks very much for your input and help.

Few follow up questions:

1- Are akebono/Bosch better than OEM ones? If not, any particular type( silver, gold, platinum etc..) for Akebnono?

2-If I heat, I'll burn those rubber boots, are they easy to get?


Thanks again for the help

 

[DuckRyder]

For a Honda, just get a set of Honda pads, they are reasonably priced and include shims and lube.

You should look at the rear drums - at 145K they could be getting close.

 

[The_Jeff]

Your pins could be sticking from old dry grease in their bores. I take a drill bit (in hand) and poke around in there to see what I can pull out.

This seems like something you should check up on every tire rotation/ 6 months so you can catch it before it gets serious again.

 

[maverickfhs]

Originally Posted By: DuckRyder
For a Honda, just get a set of Honda pads, they are reasonably priced and include shims and lube.

You should look at the rear drums - at 145K they could be getting close.


Thanks, I'll go OEM. What about rotors? Should I get them or just slap the pads on?

 

[maverickfhs]

Originally Posted By: eljefino
Your pins could be sticking from old dry grease in their bores. I take a drill bit (in hand) and poke around in there to see what I can pull out.

This seems like something you should check up on every tire rotation/ 6 months so you can catch it before it gets serious again.


Thanks, any suggestions how to poke and pull out the pins?

 

[Fastcompany]

Akebono pads are better than stock. If doing rotors a cheap but very good rotor is a brembo replacement.torch should free your pin. Get new hardware and use a drill bit to clean any rust out of the pin bore. Lately I've been using permatex superlube on pins. Alot of other brake grease seems to get to stiff and attract dirt. Super lube doesn't do that. But if going cheaper yet I totally agree with the Bosch pads. For what they cost they are as good as stock. And if you want to bed your pads in no matter what they are. Do this only with new rotors. I go out get the pads warm and then from 60 mph I slow down to 20 as fast as I can without locking a wheel up. Do this 3 times quickly and then drive a few miles without touching that brake pedal at all. This will help prolong the pads and offer greater stopping power.

 

[DuckRyder]

Originally Posted By: maverickfhs


Thanks, I'll go OEM. What about rotors? Should I get them or just slap the pads on?



Rotors are a matter of inspection, no pulsing and smooth with no grooves I might scuff them up with a roloc disc and go with them. Honda rotors aren’t quite as reasonable as their pads and there is a lot of aftermarket junk out there.

Originally Posted By: maverickfhs


Thanks, any suggestions how to poke and pull out the pins?


IIRC (and assuming 2003 and 2005 are the same) the pins go into blind holes lubricated with silicone paste. The slider pins have flats on them to hold as you remove the retainer bolt. You may have success working the pin back and forth with an appropriately sized wrench and then pulling it out. IIRC (again) the pin itself also has flats on it to allow room for the lubricant.

 

[y_p_w]

Akebono ProACT is pretty good. They're not OE, but they're a pretty good value. They also have a performance series that doesn't last as long. But as a drop in replacement, the ProACT is pretty good.

I bought a set for my wife's car, but so far they're still sitting in the box.

 

[Fastcompany]

Just FYI the performance pads are basically the same as the euro pads from akebono. For a long time it was euro pads for European cars carrying a gg rating and pro act with a ff ratimg was for everything elae. The performance pads are gg so why would they be any different than the compound they already have. The letter ratings are for the amount of friction they produce cold and hot. Higher the letters the more stopping power. If you go to the parts store and ask to see the pads look for those letters to tell you how good the pad is. Generally a ff pad is great but ef or fe is also good. Gg is the best you can use without having carbon rotors.

 

[maverickfhs]

Originally Posted By: Fastcompany
Just FYI the performance pads are basically the same as the euro pads from akebono. For a long time it was euro pads for European cars carrying a gg rating and pro act with a ff ratimg was for everything elae. The performance pads are gg so why would they be any different than the compound they already have. The letter ratings are for the amount of friction they produce cold and hot. Higher the letters the more stopping power. If you go to the parts store and ask to see the pads look for those letters to tell you how good the pad is. Generally a ff pad is great but ef or fe is also good. Gg is the best you can use without having carbon rotors.


Thanks very much for your valuable input.

Any suggestions which one I should pick?

1-http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=368834&cc=1415663&jsn=437

2-http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=6129258&cc=1415663&jsn=420&jsn=420

3-OR OEM by honda?

4-http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=2044712&cc=1415663

Thanks again.

 

[maverickfhs]

Originally Posted By: DuckRyder
Originally Posted By: maverickfhs


Thanks, I'll go OEM. What about rotors? Should I get them or just slap the pads on?



Rotors are a matter of inspection, no pulsing and smooth with no grooves I might scuff them up with a roloc disc and go with them. Honda rotors aren’t quite as reasonable as their pads and there is a lot of aftermarket junk out there.

Originally Posted By: maverickfhs


Thanks, any suggestions how to poke and pull out the pins?


IIRC (and assuming 2003 and 2005 are the same) the pins go into blind holes lubricated with silicone paste. The slider pins have flats on them to hold as you remove the retainer bolt. You may have success working the pin back and forth with an appropriately sized wrench and then pulling it out. IIRC (again) the pin itself also has flats on it to allow room for the lubricant.


Thanks, I think they are still the same. I tried using a wrench and pliers, but had no luck. They are locked up.

Was too scared to rip the boot apart, need to give them another go I guess?

 

[mk378]

Grab the head of the pin with vise grip pliers then twist and pull. If it won't budge, trade in the whole caliper for one complete with bracket and pins.

 

[bruckus]

You can just buy the bracket and pins at autozone instead of replacing the whole caliper. Had to do that on my civic.
Run thermoquiet pads on mine and they work great with long life

 

[DuckRyder]

The boot on the pin just rolls over a lip, it the boot is structurally sound you should be able to separate it, once you do that It may help you get some penetrant in there.

 

[maverickfhs]

Originally Posted By: DuckRyder
The boot on the pin just rolls over a lip, it the boot is structurally sound you should be able to separate it, once you do that It may help you get some penetrant in there.


Thanks, I'll give it a try.