Honda Accord Gen 7 oil

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Hello all

I have Honda Accord 2005 K20A6 petrol engine. My manual states to use API SJ OR SL oil, but manual was printed in 2005. Can i use oil API SM and SN or they are more for recent engines due to lower SAPS?
As i live in UK, ACEA spec is used, i guess for manual spec of API SL equivelent ACEA is 5W30 A5B5?

C3 oils are popular in Europre in 5W30 visc, is this diesel oil more suitalbe for modern engines rather then older designs?
Would this car benefit more from thicker oil like 5w40? car does not burn oil and it has nearly 70,000 miles

Previously car was serviced with 10W-40 and 5w30 oils.
I am looking for best protection oil rather then fuel economy.
Manual only states fuel efficient detergent API SL oil and viscosity as per chart, but according to this, I can use 5W30 A5B5 or 10W-40?

many thanks all
 
Just s point of reference: There are many UK business car contract drivers who buy 2 yr lease return company cars with 30-50k km, and then drive it for 3 yrs/3-500k km before repeating the cycle. I've spoken to a few when I took trips there, this company contracts drivers who were all driving Mercedes station wagons and all seem to follow the exact same routine: 15-20k km OCI with manufacturers approved spec oil, 229.5 (gas) or 229.51 (diesel).

The purpose was lowest operating cost but longevity came in the picture: these cars were new at $50k sterling pounds, $22-25k 2 yr lease return cars purchase, sold as 5 yr old cars with 300-350k km for $10k-12k. The OCI is considered conservative and ensures that there are buyers. They said there should be another 5 yrs 3-500k km life left in the cars. Otherwise it's a tough sell for a 5 yr old 300k mile car.

These guys support a family on this job. Take home pay == contract income - cost. So cost is a big factor.

Relevance to a Honda? Maybe. It is possible to run a car to 600+ km on simple timely maintenance. Honda's may not need ACEA A3/B4. But if it doesn't cost much more, it may be worthwhile for the extra safety margin. C3 oil also has higher wear protection than a5/c5 at demanding/stressful engine operating conditions. I deem C3 to be a better oil than A5/c5. But C3 oil seems to cost the same as A3/B4, so maybe A3/B4 is the way to go
 
Originally Posted by oghl
Just s point of reference: There are many UK business car contract drivers who buy 2 yr lease return company cars with 30-50k km, and then drive it for 3 yrs/3-500k km before repeating the cycle. I've spoken to a few when I took trips there, this company contracts drivers who were all driving Mercedes station wagons and all seem to follow the exact same routine: 15-20k km OCI with manufacturers approved spec oil, 229.5 (gas) or 229.51 (diesel).

The purpose was lowest operating cost but longevity came in the picture: these cars were new at $50k sterling pounds, $22-25k 2 yr lease return cars purchase, sold as 5 yr old cars with 300-350k km for $10k-12k. The OCI is considered conservative and ensures that there are buyers. They said there should be another 5 yrs 3-500k km life left in the cars. Otherwise it's a tough sell for a 5 yr old 300k mile car.

These guys support a family on this job. Take home pay == contract income - cost. So cost is a big factor.

Relevance to a Honda? Maybe. It is possible to run a car to 600+ km on simple timely maintenance. Honda's may not need ACEA A3/B4. But if it doesn't cost much more, it may be worthwhile for the extra safety margin. C3 oil also has higher wear protection than a5/c5 at demanding/stressful engine operating conditions. I deem C3 to be a better oil than A5/c5. But C3 oil seems to cost the same as A3/B4, so maybe A3/B4 is the way to go







Good post, according to manual, engine K20A6 is designed for Fuel efficient oil API AL HIGH SAPS ( ACEA A1 OR A5), and this is always 0W30 ro 5w30 Viscosity, C3 oils can be also in 5W30 visosity but its reduced SAPS, Low TBN, would this provide less protection as engine is designed for HIGH SAPS? Also A3/B4 oils are only available in 5w40 or 0W40 specs, which are thicker oils but Full SAPs would they protect older engine designed for A5B5 (API AL) (2005) better?



The A5/B5 oil i am intrested

Shel Helix 5w30 AF

https://www.oil-club.ru/forum/topic/29968-shell-helix-ultra-professional-af-5w-30-svezhee/

Mobil Super 3000 X1 FE
https://www.oil-club.ru/forum/topic/34209-mobil%EF%BB%BF%C2%A0super-3000-x1-formula-fe-5w-30%C2%A0otrabotka-na-lada-granta%C2%A0posle-5960-km%EF%BB%BF/

Millers EE Longlife Eco
https://www.oil-club.ru/forum/topic/21805-millers-oils-ee-longlife-eco-5w-30-svezhee/?page=2


Or
5w40 A3/B4 229.5, A40, BMW01

Motul 5w40Xcess
https://www.oil-club.ru/forum/topic/6713-motul-x-cess-8100-5w-40-svezhee/

Shel Helix 5w40
https://www.oil-club.ru/forum/topic/35239-shell-helix-ultra-5w-40-api-sn-svezhee/

Mobil super 5w40
https://www.oil-club.ru/forum/topic/27775-mobil-super-3000-x1-5w-40-svezhee-bochkovoe-poddelka/

Total Quartzx Enrgy 5w40
https://www.oil-club.ru/forum/topic/12201-total-quartz-9000-energy-5w-40-svezhee/?page=2

Mobil 1 FS
https://www.oil-club.ru/forum/topic/30271-mobil1-fs-0w-40-svezhee/?tab=comments#comment-985046
 
I think there are some 30 grade A3/B4 and/or 229.5/LL01 oils. I don't remember the exact products but if you look up the list of 229.5/LL01 oils, they are listed.

The 229.5 oil I use are 0w40, but they are on the low end of the 40 viscosity range. The 229.5 30 grade oils, if I remember right, are on the high end of the 30 viscosity grade range. They are pretty close in viscosity is what I am trying to say.

I think in general, A3/B4 oils provides higher level of wear protection than A5/B5. However in your case, it might be a case of having 75% safety margin vs having 200% safety margin. These numbers are pulled out of my back end so they are not precise, but the meaning is that it may not matter at all if your engine design and driving style doesn't need the extra protection. If A3/B4 is in the same price range as A5/B5, which seems to be for me and my local area, and if you care more about protection than fuel economy, then A3/B4 would be a good alternative to A5/B5.

Full saps protects better in general, but only in boundry conditions where the oil film is getting too thin. The move away from full saps is for extending life of the emission equipments. If you are not burning oil, no worries with either full or low saps.

It appears that you are getting fully informed and will make good choices. Your car is lucky to have you as its owner.
 
Many thanks, the only 5W30 oil i can find is C3 and not A3B4, all A3B4 oils in 229.5 are 5W40 or 0w40.
C3 oils come in 229.51 specification
 
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