Honda Accord 7th Gen.
- Thread starter ET16
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I have an '07, purchased new and now has 85,000 kms. Mostly short tripped to wife's workplace, with a highway run a couple times a month. Good reliable car, only fluids, tires and one battery so far since new. We'll be keeping it for many more years.
I have an '07 V6 M6 sedan. It's a great car. I have 185,000 Km on mine. Bought it new.
The only problem is that the manual transmission is a little wonky. If I go down a steep slope in 1st gear without using brakes it sometimes pops out of gear. Always has, always will. I've learned to not worry about it.
I plan to keep it until one of my grandchildren needs a car. They can learn to drive a manual. It's an important life skill.
The only problem is that the manual transmission is a little wonky. If I go down a steep slope in 1st gear without using brakes it sometimes pops out of gear. Always has, always will. I've learned to not worry about it.
I plan to keep it until one of my grandchildren needs a car. They can learn to drive a manual. It's an important life skill.
The 03-05 V6 (AT) cars you can expect to replace the transmission or have it rebuilt unless someone was super serious about maintenance, and even then it might still go bad. Honda updated the transmission in 2006 I believe and those are longer lived. The filter is replaceable and should be done, even though there's no mention of it in the maintenance schedule. Same with the AT pressure switches.
Power steering pump O-rings like to fail. Usually, notice it in colder weather as foaming fluid and a pump making lots of noise. It's a $2 10 minute fix.
Motor mounts on the V6 cars. Not what I would consider failure-prone, but they do tend to fail after 100k miles. I don't have an I4 so I don't know if those are as bad, I suspect not as their lower power/torque engines probably don't abuse the mounts as bad.
The compliance bushings in pretty much all of them by now will be shot. If they haven't been replaced, expect to replace them. Might not cause driveability problems, but will cause tire wear issues on the front. More so in the heavier/more powerful V6 cars. You can replace the whole arm if you want to, but not with Mevotech. Moog works well. Or you can replace the bushings. My recommendation is to use an Acura TL bushing in it as it should be a little more durable as those cars were heavier.
V6 cars will need a timing belt between 100-120k. I4 cars are a chain. nothing to replace unless it is doing something odd.
All of them should at least have their valve clearances checked. Honda says 105k to do it, you're probably safe waiting till 150k or so.
Make sure the coolant is blue. Should mean that it always had the proper coolant in it.
If that list makes them sound like junk, far from it. They are solid cars. Those are just a few of the hot-spots to keep an eye out for that you can use to drive the price down if you want.
If its had reasonable maintenance over its life, they are good cars.
Power steering pump O-rings like to fail. Usually, notice it in colder weather as foaming fluid and a pump making lots of noise. It's a $2 10 minute fix.
Motor mounts on the V6 cars. Not what I would consider failure-prone, but they do tend to fail after 100k miles. I don't have an I4 so I don't know if those are as bad, I suspect not as their lower power/torque engines probably don't abuse the mounts as bad.
The compliance bushings in pretty much all of them by now will be shot. If they haven't been replaced, expect to replace them. Might not cause driveability problems, but will cause tire wear issues on the front. More so in the heavier/more powerful V6 cars. You can replace the whole arm if you want to, but not with Mevotech. Moog works well. Or you can replace the bushings. My recommendation is to use an Acura TL bushing in it as it should be a little more durable as those cars were heavier.
V6 cars will need a timing belt between 100-120k. I4 cars are a chain. nothing to replace unless it is doing something odd.
All of them should at least have their valve clearances checked. Honda says 105k to do it, you're probably safe waiting till 150k or so.
Make sure the coolant is blue. Should mean that it always had the proper coolant in it.
If that list makes them sound like junk, far from it. They are solid cars. Those are just a few of the hot-spots to keep an eye out for that you can use to drive the price down if you want.
If its had reasonable maintenance over its life, they are good cars.
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Make sure the deal includes the seller getting you a MD inspection.
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- 29,558
The gen 7 coupes with an oem rear spoiler look sweet!!
The k24 is known to burn oil. I had one that burned about 1qt/1000 miles. Great cars though! Simple to work on.
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- Dec 30, 2006
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- 29,558
I wonder if that's due to the W20 oil? I use W30 oil and it doesn't use a single drop. I wonder if TSX owners experience any oil usage, as they spec W30 oil?
It’s pretty widespread. Nothing changed my oil consumption (piston soaks, different oil, BG EPR treatments, etc).
Widely known to have stuck rings.
The 06 or 07 k24s were covered by a recall. After an oil consumption test, they’d re-ring them in car or they’d replace the short block. Although the same, the older k24s weren’t covered.
When I was buying the car I cross compared the Accord I4 M5, Accord V6 M6 sedans and Acura TSX I4 M? I liked the Accord V6 M6 sedan the best. I suspect either of the other two choices would have had lower maintenance costs because of the timing belt cost. But I'm not unhappy with my choice.
My V6 doesn't burn any oil. I never add oil and it isn't down noticeably after a typical 8,000 Km change interval.
If you wanted a car that will go almost forever (ie 300,000, 400,000 or more miles) at pretty low cost the 7th Gen Accord I4 M5 would be a good choice.
My V6 doesn't burn any oil. I never add oil and it isn't down noticeably after a typical 8,000 Km change interval.
If you wanted a car that will go almost forever (ie 300,000, 400,000 or more miles) at pretty low cost the 7th Gen Accord I4 M5 would be a good choice.
As with all cars. Check the headliner. Mine dropped and I just redid it.
Being a dark blue car and baking in the sun deteriorated the foam backing.
Then again, it dropped fast, one week it was good and the next week it was sagging. A couple days later was undriveable due to no visibility out the back window.
Being a dark blue car and baking in the sun deteriorated the foam backing.
Then again, it dropped fast, one week it was good and the next week it was sagging. A couple days later was undriveable due to no visibility out the back window.
Eh, I had a 2004 EX 5MT sedan. It was a dog at low RPM.
Once up to highway speeds, it was adequate
2 months ago I bought a 2006 4 cylinder automatic. It got 27.4 miles per gallon in mixed driving for the last tank of gas. The ride quality is good but there's lots of road noise. Lumbar support on the seats is poor. I will have to replace my headliner in the not too distant future. There was a drive by wire hesitation on initial acceleration but was greatly improved by replacing the plugs, air filter, cleaning the MAF sensor, and the throttle body. I've done a drain and fill on the transmission and will have the AC serviced soon. I think the 7th generation Accord can be as reliable as a Camry but more satisfying to drive. Best wishes on your search.
I had one for several years that I replaced with a 2010 model. Both were reliable I4 automatics. Both had terrible seats and almost unbearable road noise. I tried many different tire brands and pressures to no avail. Good cars but not great for long road trips.
I put about 50k on an 07 K24 Accord. Burned a quart every 1800 miles. I ran Kreen twice. The last oil change, prior to an accident, it had dropped about 1/2 quart at 3k miles.
If you can somehow still get your hands on Kreen, give it a whirl....
We had an apprentice at Acura that did nothing but replace pistons on the K24’s all day, every day. Due to oil burning due to stuck rings.
