College student vehicle - comparo

Joined
Jul 31, 2025
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185
Location
CO
Looking for input/experience with the 2012 Mazda3 Touring 5MT with 2.0 engine. I drove one several years ago and it was pretty nice. The example we're looking at has ~178,000 miles on it.

Contrast another one we're looking at, 2009 Camry 2.4/auto with almost same mileage (177k). Basic transpo and Toyota reliability...but isn't the 2.4 the engine that ends up burning oil? [insert Valvoline Restore and Protect discussion]

Lastly an 07 Honda Accord, 2.4 Manual with 171k.

All are Colorado cars from what I see, so rust isn't an issue.

With similar mileage I'm leaning towards the newer Mazda, but will value opinions from everyone. Primary concern will be reliabiity, as school is far from home.

Caveat: For the Mazda or Honda, will have to teach this Gen Z to drive a stick - which he will probably resist lol
 
My SD has a 2008 Honda Accord 2.4/auto with about 165k miles. Never had a problem with it. It doesn't burn oil. I change it for her by the OLM and use Mobil 1 0W-20, whichever version is on sale when she says the OLM light is on. She insists on Mobil 1 because, honestly, random people told her it's best. Last month it came due and I threw in about 1/2 qt of HPL Engine Cleaner 30 I had leftover from our X3 cleanup. The Honda doesn't need it, but I had it and why not?
 
Looking for input/experience with the 2012 Mazda3 Touring 5MT with 2.0 engine. I drove one several years ago and it was pretty nice. The example we're looking at has ~178,000 miles on it.

Contrast another one we're looking at, 2009 Camry 2.4/auto with almost same mileage (177k). Basic transpo and Toyota reliability...but isn't the 2.4 the engine that ends up burning oil? [insert Valvoline Restore and Protect discussion]

Lastly an 07 Honda Accord, 2.4 Manual with 171k.

All are Colorado cars from what I see, so rust isn't an issue.

With similar mileage I'm leaning towards the newer Mazda, but will value opinions from everyone. Primary concern will be reliabiity, as school is far from home.

Caveat: For the Mazda or Honda, will have to teach this Gen Z to drive a stick - which he will probably resist lol
Spin the manual transmission option as anti-theft and none of their peers will be able to borrow it. Manual transmissions traditionally have less to go wrong over automatics.
 
At those mileages, anything in any one of them can "go next".

Perhaps starting their engines on a cold morning and listening might be as good a test as any.
Can play or noises be detected in the drivetrain?

Maybe a look at what support is available in the school's town or the town's junkyards.
 
Looking for input/experience with the 2012 Mazda3 Touring 5MT with 2.0 engine. I drove one several years ago and it was pretty nice. The example we're looking at has ~178,000 miles on it.

Contrast another one we're looking at, 2009 Camry 2.4/auto with almost same mileage (177k). Basic transpo and Toyota reliability...but isn't the 2.4 the engine that ends up burning oil? [insert Valvoline Restore and Protect discussion]

Lastly an 07 Honda Accord, 2.4 Manual with 171k.

All are Colorado cars from what I see, so rust isn't an issue.

With similar mileage I'm leaning towards the newer Mazda, but will value opinions from everyone. Primary concern will be reliabiity, as school is far from home.

Caveat: For the Mazda or Honda, will have to teach this Gen Z to drive a stick - which he will probably resist lol
I would recommend any of those three to someone else. For myself, I'd prefer the Mazda or the Honda for the MT.
 
Go for a MT. Not sure if the Mazda is a hatch, but that offers much utility for hauling larger items. We have a slightly older 09 Mazda 5 with the Ford 2.3 and 5MT at around 160K. It has been very reliable but I have had to do a few things more recently that are to be expected. New rear dampers and mounts, starter, radiator are the bigger ones. Get a scope to peer inside the engine top to get a feel for oil change habits. That will tell you a lot. When you do buy, I would spend money on fluids and the usual items like brakes, belts, tensioner. My hoses are original and the factory clutch is still going strong. And we are hard on the car.
 
Looking for input/experience with the 2012 Mazda3 Touring 5MT with 2.0 engine. I drove one several years ago and it was pretty nice. The example we're looking at has ~178,000 miles on it.

.... an 07 Honda Accord, 2.4 Manual with 171k.
All good choices.

I test drove a Mazda 3 5MT in about that era. I really liked it. Mazda makes good cars.

I own an '07 Honda Accord bought new, but mine has the V6 6MT. Aside from having the transmission being replaced in the first couple of weeks (jumping out of both 1st and 2nd gears on any lift off) the car has been practically flawless. Aside from normal maintenance (tires, batteries, belts, fluids) I've had to replace a couple of bulbs, a rear caliper, brake disc and pads (I think because I didn't have the slider pins lubed), and a valve cover gasket. When we replaced the valve cover gasket we checked and adjusted the valves which were almost all out of spec (tight exhaust valves, loose intake valves, at 190,000 km).

On an older vehicle I'd go with a manual transmission. Less to go wrong, cheaper to repair, and a built in anti-theft system.
 
Get the MT. He will find things he likes about it and then decide he wants something later and probably end up with an AT, then spend the next 20 years confounded at how much he misses the MT while life serves him ATs.

Ok that’s partly humorous.

How’s his coordination? My son enjoyed a MT but is naturally pretty coordinated. Not everyone else is. My daughter drives a manual (shared car with her fiancé) and doesn’t appreciate it as much. It was hard for her to learn and while she gets around just fine it it, unusual circumstances like hard launch, or a situation where there are 4 adults in the vehicle can rattle her pretty good.
 
I strongly disagree on the "less problems ahead" with an MT. In France maybe - yes. Or any market that is immune to automatics.

An MT will eventually need a new clutch. It's a consumable. It's not a matter of if, it's a matter of when. Especially if learning stickshift on it - it can get burnt quite quick. Give it to a valet in an underground garage - they can burn it in two minutes.

Replacing a clutch is a trivial procedure, but less and less mechanics have to do it. So it becomes un-trivial.

I stll think that any kid has to go through a stickshift in their life, as driving one is a life skill, but it is NOT less expensive or simpler in the long run. Not any more.
 
Appreciate all the comments so far....

@goblin: Manual doom & gloom! Thanks for the input, I agree finding a decent clutch mechanic can be a challenge. But I think that as far as needing a rebuild, manuals win hands down. Many can go half a million miles without an issue. It's a rare automatic that makes it 1/2 that distance.
 
I strongly disagree on the "less problems ahead" with an MT. In France maybe - yes. Or any market that is immune to automatics.

An MT will eventually need a new clutch. It's a consumable. It's not a matter of if, it's a matter of when. Especially if learning stickshift on it - it can get burnt quite quick.
I agree. Only way I'd buy a manual is if I'm buying it new.
 
Our 2013 CX-5 has that engine/transmission combo. It's good and knowing how to row through gears is a life skill in my books. Both my kids learned to drive on the mazda and the younger one will be taking it to college next September. The older one has his manual transmission ranger to kick around. Don't fear the manual. Clutches are cheaply replaced.
 
Yeah, what's the big deal getting a clutch replaced?
Cost? It's been a decade since I had one done, but it was $700 or so then. So well past a grand now? So if one buys a MT car that was thrashed by a prior newbie and/or about to be thrashed by another newbie, it could a sudden expense.

Dunno. Wife was a complete noob when she got her first MT and it never wore out a clutch, and neither did I. Could be just hand wringing. But eh, some on this forum think going past 50% throttle is abuse. This forum sometimes goes into the dirt looking for every thing that could go wrong.
 
Cost? It's been a decade since I had one done, but it was $700 or so then. So well past a grand now? So if one buys a MT car that was thrashed by a prior newbie and/or about to be thrashed by another newbie, it could a sudden expense.

Dunno. Wife was a complete noob when she got her first MT and it never wore out a clutch, and neither did I. Could be just hand wringing. But eh, some on this forum think going past 50% throttle is abuse. This forum sometimes goes into the dirt looking for every thing that could go wrong.

OP is looking at 15+ year old used cars with 150k+. If the automatic transmission goes at this point more than half the people out there would scrap the vehicle and move on. A clutch is a more manageable repair.
 
OP is looking at 15+ year old used cars with 150k+. If the automatic transmission goes at this point more than half the people out there would scrap the vehicle and move on. A clutch is a more manageable repair.
Not sure if true--many cars with 150k are getting sold for crazy money. If it's a common car then I wonder if an auto transmission is a cheap swap. Or if the times are changing and it's more likely than in years past that it'd get fixed.

But yes, a clutch swap is easier than rebuilding an automatic--but it's the same effort as swapping transmissionmissions. But otherwise, you do have a point. Many would move on.
 
Ended up with a dark horse: 09 Camry. The 2.4 uses some oil but not too bad. It's on Valvoline Restore and Protect....
 
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