Any thoughts on how this spark plug looks? Not an expert on reading them the threads are really oily
Homelite XL12 spark plug
- Thread starter BigShug681
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Bad.
If that saw calls for something richer than 50:1, I'd use a TC-W3 oil. Or I'd use an FD rated oil at 50:1. It wont kill it.
Walmart has FD rated 2-stroke oil in the garden center where they sell trimmer string. The 2-stroke oil in the auto section doesn't have the same selection of 2-stroke oils for whatever reason.
If that saw calls for something richer than 50:1, I'd use a TC-W3 oil. Or I'd use an FD rated oil at 50:1. It wont kill it.
Walmart has FD rated 2-stroke oil in the garden center where they sell trimmer string. The 2-stroke oil in the auto section doesn't have the same selection of 2-stroke oils for whatever reason.
Not really a good picture but looks okay to me. Gap should be only about .020".
With the plug out, connect it to the lead and hold the base against a metal part of the engine. Pull the cord and you should see a spark with the ignition on.
With the plug out, connect it to the lead and hold the base against a metal part of the engine. Pull the cord and you should see a spark with the ignition on.
Originally Posted by skyactiv
Bad.
If that saw calls for something richer than 50:1, I'd use a TC-W3 oil. Or I'd use an FD rated oil at 50:1. It wont kill it.
Walmart has FD rated 2-stroke oil in the garden center where they sell trimmer string. The 2-stroke oil in the auto section doesn't have the same selection of 2-stroke oils for whatever reason.
It calls for something around a 16:1 or 32:1 ratio, it hasn't ran in years until recently. This could be a extremely old plug so I was headed to get a new one. I decided to experiment and run it at 100:1 on Amsoil's saber oil this recent tank and had no issues whatsoever. I actually just cut up an entire downed tree at my mothers with it. Any advice on a new plug for it?
Bad.
If that saw calls for something richer than 50:1, I'd use a TC-W3 oil. Or I'd use an FD rated oil at 50:1. It wont kill it.
Walmart has FD rated 2-stroke oil in the garden center where they sell trimmer string. The 2-stroke oil in the auto section doesn't have the same selection of 2-stroke oils for whatever reason.
It calls for something around a 16:1 or 32:1 ratio, it hasn't ran in years until recently. This could be a extremely old plug so I was headed to get a new one. I decided to experiment and run it at 100:1 on Amsoil's saber oil this recent tank and had no issues whatsoever. I actually just cut up an entire downed tree at my mothers with it. Any advice on a new plug for it?
Originally Posted by WobblyElvis
Not really a good picture but looks okay to me. Gap should be only about .020".
With the plug out, connect it to the lead and hold the base against a metal part of the engine. Pull the cord and you should see a spark with the ignition on.
Yea I had a hard time getting it to focus in on the plug but I took it in somewhat off a hurry. I'm replacing out of maintenance because I'm not sure when it was last replaced, my grandfather was notorious for never changing plugs.
Not really a good picture but looks okay to me. Gap should be only about .020".
With the plug out, connect it to the lead and hold the base against a metal part of the engine. Pull the cord and you should see a spark with the ignition on.
Yea I had a hard time getting it to focus in on the plug but I took it in somewhat off a hurry. I'm replacing out of maintenance because I'm not sure when it was last replaced, my grandfather was notorious for never changing plugs.
We just had a good discussion about appropriate oil mix ratios: https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/foru...093016/two-stroke-mix-ratios#Post5093016
I ran those saws in the 1970's at 16:1 with a very generic 2 stroke oil, back when Homelite was still considered a good brand. That's a very old saw of different design than today's saws. Read the above thread and maybe reconsider NOT running Amsoil Saber at their recommended 100:1. Just my opinion.
Also be aware of rotting fuel lines and maybe loose/compressed gaskets on the carburetor and jug. I had an old saw run lean by sucking air through a loose carb and seize the piston (my bad). Probably no chain brake either, so be extra careful of reactive forces.
I ran those saws in the 1970's at 16:1 with a very generic 2 stroke oil, back when Homelite was still considered a good brand. That's a very old saw of different design than today's saws. Read the above thread and maybe reconsider NOT running Amsoil Saber at their recommended 100:1. Just my opinion.
Also be aware of rotting fuel lines and maybe loose/compressed gaskets on the carburetor and jug. I had an old saw run lean by sucking air through a loose carb and seize the piston (my bad). Probably no chain brake either, so be extra careful of reactive forces.
Originally Posted by doitmyself
We just had a good discussion about appropriate oil mix ratios: https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/foru...093016/two-stroke-mix-ratios#Post5093016
I ran those saws in the 1970's at 16:1 with a very generic 2 stroke oil, back when Homelite was still considered a good brand. That's a very old saw of different design than today's saws. Read the above thread and maybe reconsider NOT running Amsoil Saber at their recommended 100:1. Just my opinion.
Also be aware of rotting fuel lines and maybe loose/compressed gaskets on the carburetor and jug. I had an old saw run lean by sucking air through a loose carb and seize the piston (my bad). Probably no chain brake either, so be extra careful of reactive forces.
I originally wasn't going to run it at 100:1 but I fall more under the idea that oils were recommended so rich because of inferior lubricating abilities. I may richen it up a bit but so far I've had zero issues and no over heating
We just had a good discussion about appropriate oil mix ratios: https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/foru...093016/two-stroke-mix-ratios#Post5093016
I ran those saws in the 1970's at 16:1 with a very generic 2 stroke oil, back when Homelite was still considered a good brand. That's a very old saw of different design than today's saws. Read the above thread and maybe reconsider NOT running Amsoil Saber at their recommended 100:1. Just my opinion.
Also be aware of rotting fuel lines and maybe loose/compressed gaskets on the carburetor and jug. I had an old saw run lean by sucking air through a loose carb and seize the piston (my bad). Probably no chain brake either, so be extra careful of reactive forces.
I originally wasn't going to run it at 100:1 but I fall more under the idea that oils were recommended so rich because of inferior lubricating abilities. I may richen it up a bit but so far I've had zero issues and no over heating
How old is this saw? I'm not sure if I'd run Saber at 100:1 or even 80:1 depending on its age. I have an email from Amsoil saying they would recommend not going any leaner than 50:1 with Saber in my early and mid 70s Lawn Boy mowers.
L8R,
Matt
L8R,
Matt
Originally Posted by AnthemBassMan
How old is this saw? I'm not sure if I'd run Saber at 100:1 or even 80:1 depending on its age. I have an email from Amsoil saying they would recommend not going any leaner than 50:1 with Saber in my early and mid 70s Lawn Boy mowers.
L8R,
Matt
That's interesting, I actually emailed them asking if it was safe and they said it would be perfectly fine to run in older engines at 100:1. This saw is a late 60s early 70s model and the reasoning they gave that 2 strokes back then required such rich mixtures is what I had already suspected and that was that oils back then didn't have nearly the capabilities that they do today. I ran the saw through 2 tanks of fuel today cutting up some downed trees and then cutting down a large dead tree and had zero issues. I made sure to clean the saw up with degreaser and sprayed it down with the hose and cleaned all the gunk and grime off the cooling fins. The old girl just rips at full throttle while eating away. I'm fairly confident saber is doing a stellar job at 100:1 and before that I was actually afraid to mix it over the 16:1 but after this I have no real fears at such a lean ratio. I may richen it up to 80:1 but then again after all the cutting I did today and not having a single seizure or just general overheating I may not.
How old is this saw? I'm not sure if I'd run Saber at 100:1 or even 80:1 depending on its age. I have an email from Amsoil saying they would recommend not going any leaner than 50:1 with Saber in my early and mid 70s Lawn Boy mowers.
L8R,
Matt
That's interesting, I actually emailed them asking if it was safe and they said it would be perfectly fine to run in older engines at 100:1. This saw is a late 60s early 70s model and the reasoning they gave that 2 strokes back then required such rich mixtures is what I had already suspected and that was that oils back then didn't have nearly the capabilities that they do today. I ran the saw through 2 tanks of fuel today cutting up some downed trees and then cutting down a large dead tree and had zero issues. I made sure to clean the saw up with degreaser and sprayed it down with the hose and cleaned all the gunk and grime off the cooling fins. The old girl just rips at full throttle while eating away. I'm fairly confident saber is doing a stellar job at 100:1 and before that I was actually afraid to mix it over the 16:1 but after this I have no real fears at such a lean ratio. I may richen it up to 80:1 but then again after all the cutting I did today and not having a single seizure or just general overheating I may not.
If this 100:1 oil is more expensive than oil rated for 50:1, is there any true savings? I'm a little leery of these 100:1 oils.
Something to be aware of: As you change the fuel/oil ration you are also changing the fuel/air mixture. You might need to tweak the mixture screws. I shoot for a 40:1 oil fuel mix.
TC-W3 is a marine oil spec for water cooled engines, no necessarily the correct oil for an air cooled engine but I use it in my 80's h
Homelite chainsaw because I have it laying around for my outboard. No problems after many years of use.
If you remove the spark plug and the muffler and hold it up to the sun, you can get a very good view of the cleanliness of the piston, rings and bore of the engine.
Due to a malfunction of the chain lube pump, my Homelite saw ingested huge amounts of chain oil on and off for a couple of years and yet the piston/rings remained clean as a whistle. go figure....
Something to be aware of: As you change the fuel/oil ration you are also changing the fuel/air mixture. You might need to tweak the mixture screws. I shoot for a 40:1 oil fuel mix.
TC-W3 is a marine oil spec for water cooled engines, no necessarily the correct oil for an air cooled engine but I use it in my 80's h
Homelite chainsaw because I have it laying around for my outboard. No problems after many years of use.
If you remove the spark plug and the muffler and hold it up to the sun, you can get a very good view of the cleanliness of the piston, rings and bore of the engine.
Due to a malfunction of the chain lube pump, my Homelite saw ingested huge amounts of chain oil on and off for a couple of years and yet the piston/rings remained clean as a whistle. go figure....
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