Home made MTF?

[ARCOgraphite]

Just put the 10w30 and the GL-4 in there 50/50 blend. The GL-4 will provide the extreme pressure additives for the transaxle final reduction gearset and the differential the 10W30 will provide a nice carrier oil. It will be a tad thick, but drive it very hard in second and third gear for a bit and that will chop it up. It will take a week for the EP package to clean up the old lubricant. and change the match braking on the blockers and cones. Now get to it or are you just going to post about it for weeks and do nothing?

 

[mlab]

Haha! Arco, I've learned it's always better to plan your work ahead of time! Thanks for your help, you know your stuff. Might I ask if you think the symptoms could also be due to a clutch not fully releasing, in need of a pedal stop adjustment? Symptoms : Bit hard to shift when cold. A bit notchy, especially in reverse...sometimes need to put it in 1st gear before reverse, to do it quick. Feels like something is holding when pulling out of gear, going to neutral or another gear, then releases right before neutral. Like pinching your finger while you pull it out (very proud of my analogy). Thanks again!

 

[ARCOgraphite]

Thats been my major porblem with hydraulic clutches. They don work right MOST of the time. Is the clutch engaging close to the carpet? I like it to be at least two inch off You may need a Clutch slave bleed rather than trans gear oil change. Is the slave exposed with a lever or is it a puck inside the bell housing. Most Hydraulic are self adjusting - and they adjust themselves wrong. I've driven mostly sticks. the reverse thing is pretty normal for most cars. Most do NOT have synchromesh reverse so you have to double clutch to get the thing spinning a bit

 

[MolaKule]

Originally Posted by mlab

Hi, Tractor hydraulic and transmission fluid (API GL-4) Thanks!

So your OEM fluid is a low Viscosity MTF? What is the viscosity of your TH&T fluid?

 

[mlab]

Arco, sorry for the delay, I've been busy with other stuff. Gotta manage my settings so I get email notifications... What I can tell you so far is : -The clutch engages a decent distance away from the carpet. - I'll do both : Trans gear oil change and clutch slave bleed if necessary. - The slave is exposed , on the front of the tranny. Thanks for the precisions. Will get back to you once I get things done.

 

[mlab]

Hi MolaKule. Yep, the OEM MTF is low viscosity, API GL-4, found in the first category of the "Updated List of Dedicated MTF Fluids" that you put in this forum. Thanks for the nice work, really helpful. Quoting you here : "A. These MTL fluids are closest to a Kinematic Viscosity of 6.X [email protected] (About the same viscosity as a Dexron VI) and SAE 70 or so: 1. Castrol Syntrans FE 75W, 2. BMW (Pentosin) MTF-LT-3, 3. Honda MTII or MTF 2. 4. Ford FML-XT-11-QDC 5. Volvo Manual Transmission Fluid (6.4 cSt) [Recommended for: type M65 5-speed with 6-cyl. engine, M66, MTX75 and MMT6 and of the type M56, M58 and M59 from and including model year 1996. Meets Ford specification WSSM2C200-D2] 6. Redline MT-LV SAE Viscosity Grade 70W/75W Vis [email protected]°C" Just fooling around with a cheap home made mix to flush the tranny out. Will be putting in the Redline MT-LV afterwards. I thought I read the TH&T was API GL-4 as well, but I can't find any specs. Anyway, it's the Super Tech Heavy Duty Tractor Hydraulic and Transmission Fluid. Says it uses high viscosity index base oils...meets Allison C-4; John Deere J20A/B/C, J21A, Hygard J14 B/C, Type 303; Case JIC-145, Hy-Tran, MS-1207, 1208, 1209 and 1220; Caterpillar TO-2; Deutz Allis; Ford New Holland ESN-M2C134-D; International Harvester HY-Tran B-6; Kubota; and many more. Thanks

 

[MolaKule]

For a flush use a 5W20 synthetic engine oil and drive it around the block and then drain it. Unless a transmission has been thrashed or the fluid has been left in for 50k miles or more, I don't see where a manual transmission should have any significant amount of sludge in it.

 

[mlab]

Thanks for the tip. Definitely passed 50k miles...